02 GTX DI pops hicups while running and limits out to 35 mph

[semperfish]

I have an 02 GTX DI pops that hicups while running and limits out to 35 mph. This engine just had an exhaust manifold put in to fix the problem and it didn't. I am sure it might be another part. The other day I went to try it out and it still gave me the same problem. I replaced the spark plugs because they are getting gummed with black gunk rather quickly. I ran it for 5 hours yesterday and it ran all day without stalling, had fairly quick acceleration, and would get up to 5700 RPM, but would limit out to 35, and seemed to have a sweet spot at 5300 and 30 mph. Otherwise the hiccups and pops would be intermittent. Can you help me get this thing fixed before summer is over? Besides that I have a WTB ad for a shock for the hood and a steering cable...
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=29735

Thanks,
Duane

 

[Dr Honda]

Are you using the learning key?

It sounds like it's bouncing off a rev limiter... so I will guess that you are having ignition problems if you don't have a learning key.

 

[semperfish]

GTX Di

I just got an old but new (to me) key from a guy that did some work for it. I guess it is possible that he had a learners key programmed. Can you have a yellow learners key programmed, or does it have to be the tan? This one is yellow. Are they interchangable depending on how you want to program them? About the skipping, could that be just a tune up? It seems the spark plugs were pretty gunked. Can you clean those off with a wire brush and maybe some gasoline and reuse or are they toast? I will check with the guy about the key and let you know what he says.

 

[pickle8486]

the yellow key is a regular key, a white one would be a learning key. i have heard stuff about the rectifier causing issues. Check the voltage at the battery and see if it is over 14 volts. if it is then thats the issue, if its not, let know what you finally find cause thats where i am right now, and i am stuck.

 

[semperfish]

i have heard stuff about the rectifier causing issues.

What does the rectifier do? I will look at the parts diagram and find out where its located.

Check the voltage at the battery and see if it is over 14 volts. if it is then thats the issue.

Where do you check the voltage? Right where the battery cable connects to the battery? What does this mean if its over 14 volts, how is it making too much? Does the ski need to be running at the time?
The battery is brand new, I will check and post the voltage.

if its not, let know what you finally find cause thats where i am right now, and i am stuck.

I will let you know what I find out. If I can't identify the problem with this advice and no one else chimes in I might pay $80 to St Pete Barney's for a check and advise unless Tampa Bay Powersports will do it for free. My experience hasn't been horrible with Barney's, but not awsome either. Does anyone know of a good mech that can troubleshoot this problem and fix it for a cheap price at the Gandy Bridge (S. Tampa) if I provide my tools and pay cash once the ski is fixed? Let me know. Thanks

 

[pickle8486]

the rectifier can cause 'white noise" or static which can cause the ignition to have issues identifying when to fire the coils. this will limit the rpms and cause other issues such as backfires or popping. to check this simply hook up the water to your ski run it for a second and see if it is charging more than 14 volts. just put your red lead on the positive terminal and black lead to negative. and set the voltmeter to 20 vdc and see what ya get.

 

[semperfish]

Wet Fouled Plugs

http://www.seadoosource.com/sparkpluginfo.html

On this web page, my spark plugs that were brand new looked like the wet fouled ones after running the ski for 5 hours. The temp never (as it read on the gauge IF it was reading correctly) got over the 90's and the when on the hose was actually cold to the touch when running, colder than I expected even though I know the hose was running cold water through it, I expected a little warmth. Anyways, the colder than expected temp is stil lbothering me and the wet fouled plugs seems like they are linked? Does this make sense to anyone?

Questions:

What is the correct temp that it should operate at?

How do I know the gauge is correct? Maybe have a thermometer in there and run it and see if they match?

What would cause the fouled plugs? What is the main fix?

I still have to measure the voltage at the battery!

 

[semperfish]

Battery Volts

I finally got time too measure the volts, 12.25 before I started it. I cranked it and ran it on the hose for about three minutes. I measured the volts and they were 12.66 at idle and when I gave it some gas, it went up and was charging at random volts up to 12.9 to 13.? Issues? Where to now?

 

[pickle8486]

i found out by my seadoo mechanic my rave valves were not working correctly. it was the solenoid that opes and closes them. I am not saying this is your issue, but it was mine.

 

[tjw_887]

Fuel or electrical

# 1 are both injectors working. I had a broken wire on one of my injector harness. It would run but only about half speed. you can pull them and should see gas from both.

Also #2 if you battery is not in great shape the MPEM will retard the ski and give you a 12 volt low. Try a new battery....

 

[lessmiller]

Same stuff with my seedoo

D Have you found the fix for your seedoo?

 

[semperfish]

taking apart the Rave Valves

No, I haven't found the issue (no time to dive into it yet), but I wanted to know where to start looking so when I find the time, I would know exactly where to start..... Thanks for everyone's input by the way.
I now know what I am going to do. I have narrowed it down to the Rave Valves, which I will take apart and clean (what's the best product? Brake Cleaner?) and then moving on to the rectifier (does anyone know how I would check that to see if its good? The battery is staying charged I believe) so I think that may take care of the problem (more than likely Rave Valves need cleaning or there is something in there obstructing it). I just figured with the RPMs up in the max range, then it would not be the engine but the propulsion system. I thought a new wear ring would solve it, but now, after I talked to the dealer and read the inputs on here, I will clean the raves. Like I posted on my Father's Day ride post today, if there is a knowledgeable do it yourselfer that wouldnt mind teaching me everything they know about the workings of a 2 stroke, I would love to learn all I can while we fix this thing (and I'll buy the beer), and would swap out dive lessons this summer. I just can't afford a $60- $85 an hour labor charge. I like to learn to DIY!!!! Just PM me. (I live right near the Gandy Bridge in S Tampa)

 

[voodoo]

The trouble with an injected motor is the diy stuff only gets you 1/3 the way, you have to get onto a seadoo computer to get/solve codes for all the electronic gizmos, bring the beer money to the dealer.

 

[semperfish]

But wouldn't you agree that I should absoultley do everything in my own power to make sure that its not a simple fix. I just have a hard time taking the ski into the dealer everytime something goes wrong. If its just the RAVE Valves that need cleaning and I didn't know that, they could tell me anything they want, and tell me that it took 10 hrs. to fix, and I would have to pay it because who am I to argue if I dont know whats what on the ski in the first place. I believe the dealer should be the last resort. And I don't beleive in replacing parts until it works either. But I know what your saying about the computer, and only if I NEED to, and I have been through everything else, I will take it in.

For instance: I know I could change a slip ring. I live in an apartment building and have limited tools and would be working in the parking lot with no water hose, no electricity, and even still I know I could do it. I just didn't have the time and so I took it into a place to have it done. They listened to it run when I dropped it off and said it sounded like I needed the oil pump rebuilt because of a strange sounding rattle, and he would check it out. Well, I was ready to drop big bucks (which I dont have much of), and he pulled it apart, and said it was fine. Then he replaced the wear ring, and that was 3 hours labor @ $60 an hr. and with a 20% discount because I was a first time customer I paid about $160. Thats alot of money for something I know I could have done myself, and I enjoy doing it. Self satisfaction, saving money and learning something. Thats why I get on this forum.

 

[custompartsguy]

$60 an hour was not bad if it was an actual business as most charge $80+ and up to $130 per hour. My business I charge $80.

Now in terms of charging it should be putting out 13.5-14vdc, if only in the 12vdc range then it is not charging correctly you should be at or near 13.5-14vdc to be charging correctly.

 

[semperfish]

Messed up NEXT!

Messed up NEXT!

 

[semperfish]

Update/ Electrical!!!

Alright, so I finally got a couple of hours of daylight to clean my rave valves which I did. I did not see a gasket by the way, I'll have to get one and install it. But, when I first uncovered it I wanted to crank it for a minute to exercise the engine a bit, well the starter made a Guuuhh uhhhhhhh sound, I did it a couple more times and finally it started engaging and cranking the motor, and the maintenance light flashed and beeped twice at the beginning and then it ran like usual. After shutting it down I repeated this and it repeated the maint. light and beeps. I checked the (brand new battery) volts and they were definitly low. 11.25 before cranked and 11.47 when running. Now that leads me to replace the ______?

Based on this threads previous advice, I am looking at the rectifier, There is a cheaper and more beefed up one I am looking at, http://www.seadoosource.com/hdrectifier.html, anyone have a way to test mine? Does anyone have any other ideas on what it could be? What charges the battery?

The battery is still installed, but I am going to see where the volts are in a few days and then take it out and charge it. Any idea what could drain a battery from a month of sitting/ Keep in mind the battery is about a month and a half old. Thanks

 

[semperfish]

Bad Stator

The charging issue is a bad Stator. Replacing (If you have one call me), Then I will look at getting the skipping issue, probably a carb adjustment.