01 GTX di stalling out after 20 min
- Thread starter HawkX66
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As I keep saying, I've never tested fuel or air on a DI but from what I understand you need the full 107 PSI. I'm not sure the impact repairing that line will have if your ski ran great for 20 minutes. I also don't know how much air that line will bleed off your total air pressure output. I wonder how much pressure that line actually sees.
HawkX66
Member
Welp... Just spent 3 hours out on the river with a perfect running machine. Then bleh... She quit. The same tube ruptured. I moved a few tubes around out in the water to be able to get one long enough to reconnect the compressor to the rave solenoid. No bueno this time. Couldn't get the pressure over 60psi. I suspect the compressor is shot. Heating up enough to melt the line and now is just bad. I'll rebuild it tonight and see.
Uncle_Tone
Member
Gotta do away with those gray tempo lines. Notorious for getting clogged.
WaarrEagle
Active Member
Extensive recent googling on air compressors while troubleshooting my ski revealed several folks that rupture that line over and over again. I have not dealt with that (yet) but you are not the only one. Believe it is a special high pressure line that you should probably source from SeaDoo.
HawkX66
Member
I can't disagree. It seems like a semi hard line, but I wasn't sure if it was because the heat and pressure hardened it. I'll see what I can find out at my local shop. Was there ever any comments on why it ruptured or is it just assumed to be age related?
nickmo12
Member
Following this. A lot of good info here.
I'll chime in on the after market fuel pumps. I bought one from High Flow a while ago. I now have 5 in my garage. They have great customer service. None they sent were able to put out the right pressure so when you call and tell them that, they just keep sending more pumps. I gave up after giving them an additional $30.00 for the so called high pressure pump.
Cleaning the OEM pump and changing filters usually brings a non working pump back to life. I believe these pumps would last indefinitely if kept clean.
I'll chime in on the after market fuel pumps. I bought one from High Flow a while ago. I now have 5 in my garage. They have great customer service. None they sent were able to put out the right pressure so when you call and tell them that, they just keep sending more pumps. I gave up after giving them an additional $30.00 for the so called high pressure pump.
Cleaning the OEM pump and changing filters usually brings a non working pump back to life. I believe these pumps would last indefinitely if kept clean.
jhjesse
Well-Known Member
This is what I have been preaching for years.
Post some pictures of the compressor rebuild if you don't mind. I'm curious about that. Good Luck with it.
Question do you think you might have a water flow problem on the compressor? Even if it is not putting out there is no reason for it to get real hot is there? Usually loose is cooler.
HawkX66
Member
I'll try to take some pics. At least one of the threads I saw said sticky/malfunctioning RAVE valves could be the cause. They either stay open or closed and cause heat to build up and pop that line. A dealer fixed theirs by fixing the RAVE valves apparently. I might be able to get to this today hopefully.Post some pictures of the compressor rebuild if you don't mind. I'm curious about that. Good Luck with it.
Question do you think you might have a water flow problem on the compressor? Even if it is not putting out there is no reason for it to get real hot is there? Usually loose is cooler.
What if the bottom fitting on the (distribution block) on top of the fuel module is plugged up. Looks like it is a return line back to the tank. If it is plugged then the pump may be subject to flow problems, high amperage draw or overheating. Monday I took this block off the module to ship to a forum member and as I was inspecting it.... the exit port actually looked like a rusted pit. I only found it was an exit port when I found the bottom hose connected to be plugged solid. Once I got it cleared up, it had good flow. Obviously fuel needs to flow back into the tank this line being plugged could cause a problem.
NOTE: this piece of crap block is made of carbon steel because the whole dang thing is rusted. I'm sure many are like that and they bear scrutiny. There are 2 o-rings on this block as well. I'll bet they get no attention at all and could be the cause of problems I read about on the forum. Just thought I'd share.
I can't see where this block is sold as a singular ltem so..... I bet few people actually check these. I know I will make sure I got flow when I do one. Good Luck... Touchdowns !!
NOTE: this piece of crap block is made of carbon steel because the whole dang thing is rusted. I'm sure many are like that and they bear scrutiny. There are 2 o-rings on this block as well. I'll bet they get no attention at all and could be the cause of problems I read about on the forum. Just thought I'd share.
I can't see where this block is sold as a singular ltem so..... I bet few people actually check these. I know I will make sure I got flow when I do one. Good Luck... Touchdowns !!
HawkX66
Member
Here's an update to where I am. I was able to finally get back to working on it today. I'd say I found my new problem... I pulled the PTO coupler and harmonic balancer off so I could get to the compressor rod bolt. In the end my compressor did end up going kaput. Here's some pics of what I went through and found:
1. You do not need to remove the engine mount bolts or raise the motor.
2. Remove the compressor head. Take note of where all the hoses go. There are quite a few for a small pump.
3. Pull the jet pump, remove the carbon seal clip and slide the drive shaft out.
4. Pull the six allen bolts out of the coupler and it will come off. Mine was on there pretty good, but it just pulls off. It is not threaded on like some similar setups I came across in research.
5. You'll need a good harmonic balancer puller to pull the balancer off. Mine was really on there.
6. Remove the compressor rod bolt access cover.
7. Remove #5 allen bolt and the piston, rod and cylinder should all be able to come out easily.
1. You do not need to remove the engine mount bolts or raise the motor.
2. Remove the compressor head. Take note of where all the hoses go. There are quite a few for a small pump.
3. Pull the jet pump, remove the carbon seal clip and slide the drive shaft out.
4. Pull the six allen bolts out of the coupler and it will come off. Mine was on there pretty good, but it just pulls off. It is not threaded on like some similar setups I came across in research.
5. You'll need a good harmonic balancer puller to pull the balancer off. Mine was really on there.
6. Remove the compressor rod bolt access cover.
7. Remove #5 allen bolt and the piston, rod and cylinder should all be able to come out easily.
Saw this on a KTM site and I am 99% sure this is what is happening with the aftermarket DI pumps.
KTM China Pumps
As as said above all of the AM DI pumps are just from distributors packaging them from china and I doubt any of them have even tested them to see if they work. We really need someone in the know to actually test, investigate and spec a good replacement DI pump as there is definitely a market for them.
KTM China Pumps
As as said above all of the AM DI pumps are just from distributors packaging them from china and I doubt any of them have even tested them to see if they work. We really need someone in the know to actually test, investigate and spec a good replacement DI pump as there is definitely a market for them.
Thanks for posting. Good Stuff. I have a few DI's in the line up I"ll be working on Soon. I think they are just going to be engine change outs though which is fine with me. LOL Got a couple of wrinkles in these DI engines for sure. I wonder if the 4-strokes are easier. LOL
jhjesse
Well-Known Member
Glad you found the problem. Hopefully now you can fix and enjoy.
Edit: Was just looking at the pics again and I am not sure the compressor was getting oil. Might check the third oil line going to the compressor. Also there is a small brass “check valve” in the case the oil line connects to that I would make sure it is not clogged.
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