Recent content by mikidymac

Well the oil tank is only about 12" above the pump so with pressure being 2.31' per psi you would only need 0.5 psi holding from the check valves from draining the tank into the crankcase. Now if the check valve on the tank vent doesn't work then you could build enough tank pressure to overcome...

Throttle position switch. It changes the ignition timing for the upper 20% of throttle. There is a test/setting procedure in the manual.

It looks good at first but gets dirty and stains easily.

Engine is out of alignment, not normal wear.

Did you follow the carb rebuild sticky? Did you test pop-ff and leak down?

You can't use MX because of the inside rubber. You need MTB, I prefer the Odi Ruffian.

The oil pumps don't hold oil the check valves do. On a 580/650/720 they are on the pump outlet banjo fitting and on the 787/951 they are on the intake manifold fittings.

I think Perry Performance Group and PWC Magic are still in business. They would be worth calling for plumbing and setup advise.

How did you "lower" the pop-off? I suggest replacing the ON/OFF valve as cleaning them usually causes an air leak. IF nothing else pressure and vacuum test them for being airtight.

PWC Graphics was great but he kind of fell out of contact. Glad to see he is back at it.

You don't add oil to a 2-stroke when checking compression, as you will get false readings. The only thing that controls compression on a 2-stroke is te rings so if it is low it is the rings and/or piston and only step next is to pull the head and cylinder.

As usual AI is wrong. An oil sea could be bad and allow the engine to flood with oil but it will not cause low compression.

That is the best in the country. His rebuilds will last another 20 years.

I hope you are putting new gaskets and seals on that beast? I also think that head is on upside down. That top fitting should be to bleed air out of the head. I really wish Matt B was still around....

Check with @etemplet, he has bought a few reman cranks.