Recent content by mikidymac

Doesn’t matter, go back to oil injection and premix 50:1 your race engine will live a happy life and your throttle position sensor will be happy too.

Remember the valve itself is stainless so the cases and cover are wear items being the softer metal. Yours obviously ate something. Even worse for wearing aluminum were the aftermarket "performance" carbon fiber valves.

Those cases are done. You will need to find a clean used set. The cover needs to be machined or replaced.

That thing was running extremely lean. And since it has been rebuilt before I would have the fuel injectors tested and cleaned. You are perfectly fine going to 1.0 before a resleeve. I would plan on going 0.50 over based on what the machine shop finds. I prefer OEM or Pro-X pistons but WSM are...

They are pretty far gone... I would drill them just until the head pops off, not into the aluminum. This will allow you to get the valve block off then they will come right out with simple pliers. You will need new screws which you already do.

Continuing to run an engine with carb issues is a good way to ruin it. There is nothing on these that will fix themselves and just magickly get better.

Yes, they do because those are not phillips screws, they are JIS. If they are really stubborn then an impact screwdriver can help too. And make sure you are following this... The Seadoo Carb Rebuild Thread

All of the 787 engines have a slight miss sound when cruising around the 4000-4500 rpm range. It is something with the resonance in the tuned pipe just before the RAVE valves open. If that is the only issue and otherwise they run perfectly, that is just normal for the 787.

You need to run the stock air filter or it will absolutely run too lean. You also need to check the jetting, needle and seat and springs in those new carbs to make sure they are jetted correctly for you model. Don't assume box new carbs will be jetted correctly.

That is mechanical failure. Could have run lean but could have also been typical SBT quality.... You should not have pulled the head as sometimes they won't honor the warranty but you need to get them into the warranty process asap. With any new engine always, always service the carbs with all...

Disconnect the red wire from the voltage regulator and see if it fixes it. Typically they go bad and cause all kinds of strange electrical issues. THe ski will run fine with it disconnected but you will only be on battery power so once the battery dies so does everything.

I might have used stainless mesh and JB Weld to fix my wife's GTI. But if anyone asks I didn't, and fixed it the correct way...:eek:

Grind the old one off. Have someone with a TIG welder weld the new one on. So yes, special tools.

Yes they can but if that was the case it would never run great then bad then great. It would strip and just always be bad.

You don't use thread locker to seal the cases. ThreeBond 1184 is the stuff to use and you need to pressure test the engine after assembly.