Recent content by mikidymac

Patch from the inside if you can get to it then with the outside do the best match you can with the EverCoat Gel Coat repair kit. Use epoxy resin and woven cloth. Do not use polyester resin and chopped mat.

Couple things. 1. Never trust someone that "rebuilt" the carbs. Verify for yourself and make damn sure everything is genuine Mikuni. 2. You better see if your accelerator pump inlet line is supposed to have a restrictor orifice. 3. Use the correct hose. 4. Hose #2 is the fuel inlet form the fuel...

Looks great. For future reference use ThreeBond 1184 on the cases not 515/518.

Never seen that spacer before, it is not a performance part. Some single carb 720's use a thick gasket but never seen that stainless spacer.

The pulse line is just that, it pulses with the intake pulses. It does not pull vacuum or fuel. THe fuel pump diaphragm pulses and pulls fuel through the tow check valves. If it won't pull fuel then the diaphragm, check valves or an air leak in the line to the tank is the cause.

No, it won't cause any issues as long as you smoothed out the surface for the rotary valve. No need to fill it.

I think there was someone here making them too? @WhiskeyD or @racerxxx might remember

I too am against the trouble of gelcoating, buff and polish. The impeller probably can't be saved with that much grinder damage, wow someone was a hack. The head has been off already indicated by the head bolt paint missing. The aftermarket inline fuel filter could have been the cause of the...

I love the smell of 2-strokes in the morning. Unlike napalm.

If it is not pulling fuel then you didn't get something correct with the fuel pump. That is why the final leak down test is so important.

Well the oil tank is only about 12" above the pump so with pressure being 2.31' per psi you would only need 0.5 psi holding from the check valves from draining the tank into the crankcase. Now if the check valve on the tank vent doesn't work then you could build enough tank pressure to overcome...

Throttle position switch. It changes the ignition timing for the upper 20% of throttle. There is a test/setting procedure in the manual.

It looks good at first but gets dirty and stains easily.

Engine is out of alignment, not normal wear.

Did you follow the carb rebuild sticky? Did you test pop-ff and leak down?