Recent content by mikidymac

Same as Burt said. If you want stable, reliable, easy to work on and good price point you want a 2002-2005 GTI 720. My wife has one and it is perfect for her. Stay away from the GTI RFI as it is a fuel injected 787.

Also all those fuel filters are a disaster waiting to happen too.

You dd rebuild those carbs with all new Genuine Mikuni parts correct?

Competitive crankshafts is probably the best there is but pricy. A member here was doing the balancers but I don't remember who.

Pulse line connects to the left fitting from the picture in post #6. The right fitting in that picture goes to the RAVE valve control solenoid.

Or Westside Powersports Seadoo. Pricy but guaranteed good used parts.

Ok, lots to unpack here.... First those carbs are nasty and need a full rebuild using only Genuine Mikuni parts. 2. That green hose is junk and should not be used. 3. In green that is the pulse line for the fuel pump. 4. In blue you have no hose-clamps. 5. In red, what is that connection or...

You can't hurt anything going richer. Open the screws and see if it gets better or worse.

Sounds like a bad gauge.

Well that thing is locked up solid if you unscrewed the PTO. Your only option is to pull the engine and start tearing it down. The damage has been done, no "Mystery Oil" or "Breaking it Free" is going to solve anything. Always fog any engine that is going to sit for more than a couple weeks. No...

Never block off any waterlines when running. When running on the hose you are actually backflushing the system to blow out any debris. Overheating alarm is just an idiot light, has nothing to do with ir running. If you have to use the choke you are lean, a lean engine is a hot engine and...

That coil is shot and overheated. Going to have to get a new one.

Yes those two small pins. Determine which one is ground and which one is power from the ECM. Then on the bench just use a jumper wire to your battery and see if the solenoid closes. That would test the solenoid. Your meter will not activate it. You would also hear it click if the ECM was...

They are pretty simple devices. The two small connections should always have continuity. The two large copper ones should not. Apply 12V DC to the small ones and that will close the solenoid and you should have continuity between the two large copper ones until you remove the 12V DC current.

Yes or just find a set of clean used jugs and have those bored. This wouldn't happen to be a SBT rebuild would it?