Winterizing Question

[gelsby]

I have a 95 GTX and would appreciate some winterizing advice from the experts out there.

I live in Canada and we get -30 degree cold so I need to ensure nothing can freeze.

Last year I followed my seadoo 95 gtx manual which calls for using green automotive antifreeze. This method is gravity based and you pour automotive antifreeze into the cooling system and clamp hoses together to keep the antifreeze in the system. The antifreeze mixes with any left over water in the cooling system and keeps everything freeze proof. Capturing and disposing of the toxic green antifreeze in the spring is more difficult. You also have to keep two hoses clamped all winter which I don't think is good for the hose. You can not use pink antifreeze with this method because it dilutes too much when it combines with the water still in the cooling system and can still freeze

On my waverunner I just tilt the machine up run the engine several times for 10 seconds and get almost all the water out, then I connect a submersible pump to my flush line , place it in a bucket of pink antifreeze and run it until pink antifreeze comes out the back.

So my question is can I use the submersible pump and pink antifreeze method on my seadoo or should I stick to the method in the manual. I don't know enough about the mechanics to know if the submersible pump will force out all the water and replace it with pink antifreeze. I know it does on the waverunner but that is a different cooling system.

 

[emspjay]

I don't see a problem with you pumping the pink stuff through. It get cold here in Michigan as well and my doo's are stored outside. I also use the pink stuff but gravity feed from a 5 gallon bucket to the flush attachment (with engine running to blow it out the exhaust). I think your pump would work better for forcing it though and getting all the water out.

 

[1969iggy]

Is there a reason not to hook a hose directly to the engine and let gravity do the work?

 

[Mickirig1]

I would do the back flush procedure in the repair manual or owners manual. Then do the antifreeze procedure. When you release the line clamps it will drain all the fluid out. I put a big drain pan under where the engine drain discharges. It catches 3/4's of it. The idea is to dilute the water, if there is any in the engine. Make sure you read about how to back flush. ENGINE ON, water on, WATER OFF, ENGINE OFF.

 

[gelsby]

I would do the back flush procedure in the repair manual or owners manual. Then do the antifreeze procedure. When you release the line clamps it will drain all the fluid out. I put a big drain pan under where the engine drain discharges. It catches 3/4's of it. The idea is to dilute the water, if there is any in the engine. Make sure you read about how to back flush. ENGINE ON, water on, WATER OFF, ENGINE OFF.

There is no mention in my manual about back flushing. I assume that is different than flushing by hooking up a hose and running the machine?

 

[Robert1]

use the pink marine/rv anti-freeze. I use this on my boat and just let it hit the ground in the spring, it doesn't hurt anything.

 

[Mickirig1]

It's the same procedure. It removes stuff because it goes in a different direction then the normal cooling route. You can pick up sand, shells, algae, weeds and other stuff. Some people don't know to not run the engine real close to shore. They use the power and reverse to back away from shore. You pick up bad stuff in shallow water. If you start up and use the power to leave the shallow water at the shore. You can scour your seal around impeller too.