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timing
- Thread starter 69boss
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- BiRkS_
Active Member
Not at all. The only mechanical timing is the counterbalance shaft inside the engine which is set when the lower end is assembled. The ignition timing on a 951 or any rotax is based on computer programing-its non adjustable. The flywheel should have 2 magnetic pick ups that should be inline with the keyway on the crankshaft. That is the only crucial setting.
Just be sure the '98 engine goes into a '98 hull/mpem. 99 and up use a 4 pickup flywheel and would cause all sorts of headaches! Hope this helps.
Just be sure the '98 engine goes into a '98 hull/mpem. 99 and up use a 4 pickup flywheel and would cause all sorts of headaches! Hope this helps.
Strizzo
Well-Known Member
Actually the timing is supposed to be checked and set correctly in the mpem. The pickup is not adjustable, and different cranks can be assembled slightly different so you have to mark the pto and case for tdc, and then check with a timing light, then you'd use the seadoo tool to set the timing advance/retard to get it correct. It is all outlined in the fsm.
Most people don't bother, but you can follow the directions and mark the pto and case and see where you are, if you're within a degree or two it's probably fine.
Most people don't bother, but you can follow the directions and mark the pto and case and see where you are, if you're within a degree or two it's probably fine.
- BiRkS_
Active Member
You'll be just fine. I'd be more worried about your fuel mixture and dialing in your carbs after the break in.
For the break in, mix your first tank with 50:1 premix. First start up make it short and sweet. Dial in your idle to 3000 rpm on the trailer. Be sure to have the oil pump bled and oil lines primed before first start. First water test, make sure there are no water leaks, then start seadoo and let idle around for 5-10 minutes, staying under 2000 rpm. Let it get nice and warm and make sure the pisser works near your left foot under the rub rail. Shut it down and let it cool completely (open the hood and remove storage bin to let heat out) about 30 mins or so. Then fire it back up and warm it up again 5 mins or so then gradually increase rpm. It helps to get it on plane then back off the throttle. Vary the rpms constantly and avoid staying in one position. Limit your rpms to less than 5500 on the first tank. (which is damn near impossible on an xp!) Be sure to always warm up the engine and let it cool down idling before shutting it off. Pull your plugs and look at them. They should be dark brown or black. Rich from the extra oil. If they are light brown or white, you've got a lean problem happening. Address it now.
On your second tank, limit your rpm and play with the throttle but do not hit WOT just yet. 3/4 is fine. Ease up on it, then slowly back off. After your second tank, ENJOY. just don't hold WOT for too long. And its always best to spool down after high rpms than to cut back to idle.
Hope this helps. This is just my opinion of breaking in. I've had alot of success with this method. It may take a little longer, but you will be much happier and possibly gain a little more hp from a good break in. Also, stay close to shore or have a boat spotting you. You want to always be prepared. Heck i had a great rebuild and 10 hrs of play on my xp and it just locked up on me in the middle of the lake...ended up being a driveshaft bearing that gave no warning. You never know...
On a side note....98 XP make sure to grease the bearing(s) right near the suspension seat under the hatch regularly. They are a B*TCH to get out if they seize up!
For the break in, mix your first tank with 50:1 premix. First start up make it short and sweet. Dial in your idle to 3000 rpm on the trailer. Be sure to have the oil pump bled and oil lines primed before first start. First water test, make sure there are no water leaks, then start seadoo and let idle around for 5-10 minutes, staying under 2000 rpm. Let it get nice and warm and make sure the pisser works near your left foot under the rub rail. Shut it down and let it cool completely (open the hood and remove storage bin to let heat out) about 30 mins or so. Then fire it back up and warm it up again 5 mins or so then gradually increase rpm. It helps to get it on plane then back off the throttle. Vary the rpms constantly and avoid staying in one position. Limit your rpms to less than 5500 on the first tank. (which is damn near impossible on an xp!) Be sure to always warm up the engine and let it cool down idling before shutting it off. Pull your plugs and look at them. They should be dark brown or black. Rich from the extra oil. If they are light brown or white, you've got a lean problem happening. Address it now.
On your second tank, limit your rpm and play with the throttle but do not hit WOT just yet. 3/4 is fine. Ease up on it, then slowly back off. After your second tank, ENJOY. just don't hold WOT for too long. And its always best to spool down after high rpms than to cut back to idle.
Hope this helps. This is just my opinion of breaking in. I've had alot of success with this method. It may take a little longer, but you will be much happier and possibly gain a little more hp from a good break in. Also, stay close to shore or have a boat spotting you. You want to always be prepared. Heck i had a great rebuild and 10 hrs of play on my xp and it just locked up on me in the middle of the lake...ended up being a driveshaft bearing that gave no warning. You never know...
On a side note....98 XP make sure to grease the bearing(s) right near the suspension seat under the hatch regularly. They are a B*TCH to get out if they seize up!
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