Thoughts on 2000 Model GTX RFI with rebuilt engine...

[TSmith]

I'm looking at buying a 2000 Model GTX RFI. I've looked at these exact skis before, and almost bought one but didn't quite pull the trigger quick enough. The Owner of this one says it has 171 hours on it and that he rebuilt the engine 20 hours ago. From talking to him he sounds like he's done this before and is knowledgeable, but I'm always leary. Says the rebuild was due to low compression, and that he started out to just do a top end, but found some issue with the crankshaft and decided to do the whole thing. Says he sent the crankshaft to one place and the block to another (to have the cylinder's honed I guess). Before I even consider it will get a new compression test done.

Couple of questions. 1) is this normal, or does any of that raise any flags? and 2) Assuming all is well, is 20 hours on the rebuilt motor beyond the break in period so I can truely "test" it when I go to do a water test?

Any other questions I should ask or things to look for on this ski? Asking price is $2,600.

Thanks in advance for the help folks.

 

[PGHMAN]

Like you mentioned get a compression and water test. Should be 150 on each jug. I would ask for receipts on the work done and look at the dates. Was the crank rebuilt or replaced? What size over on the pistons? What brand?
When I did my rebuild last year I filed all receipts and documented the build with pics. I m anal about those things but it always helps to have any vehicle documented for resale.
As far as the cost, most are asking premiums due to time of year. I bought my 98 RFI which was cosmetically fine with a Triton trailed for $700. The top end was pulled and laying in the hull - not a pretty site. The rebuild cost me $900ish and took about five weeks. Knowing now what I know I may have spent little much but my thought was to have a descent/reliable ski for under $2k. So far it's been a fun summer

 

[TSmith]

I'm headed to look at and test this one tomorrow. Should I be concerned about the engine re-build, or since that sounds pretty common, should I be glad it was done recently?

 

[SkierBD572]

That doesn't sound like a bad deal from my point of view but I'm kind of new to this. I bought that same ski last Sept for $1700. Then $300 for a trailer. Now just starting a top end rebuild and hoping to have only about $2500 in it when finished. In fact I was just going to start a new thread with questions about the rebuild. Like you mentioned, you should definitely do a water test because mine ran pretty good on the trailer (Even with a broken ring). But you put it in the water and my Jon boat would outrun it with the trolling motor. Good luck on your purchase and maybe you can get them to come down on the price if they don't have proof of the rebuild. Let us know how it turns out.

 

[TSmith]

Thanks. Is yours the ski in your avatar? I wasn't sure because the one I'm looking at is sort of metallic orange. Did they make 2 colors of the millennium edition GTX RFI?

 

[kicker]

They made the burnt orange and gr/white gtx rfi in 2000. The blue and white gtx was the DI version and the red and black was the 947 cc ski.

If there are no receipts and the seller is a stranger to you, then the rebuild did not happen. I would be hesitant to pay top dollar without any documentation, it is possible that he did a quick kick and fill to get it to run in order to ask top dollar.

Also, On an unknown to you rebuild, it is always good to ask why it needed a rebuild. If the owners intention was just to do a topend job but found bigger issues leading into the bottom end that means there was substantial damage. It is fine to rebuild, but with that kind of damage usually it is a result of something else going wrong.

Example, if the injectors were plugged and caused a lean condition and melted a piston. If he didn't spend the extra $150 on injectors after the rebuild because he didn't know what caused the motor to blow then it will not last long after you purchase it.

 

[SkierBD572]

Yes, that is mine in the green & white color. It sat in that field for three years unused before I bought it (probably why I am rebuilding the top end)(Some of us have to learn the hard way). To answer your question.....I have also seen the red & black and the blue & white in the Millenium Edition but as kicker said, they are not GTX RFI. I also found another thread a minute ago that is similar to your original question that might be helpful. But it is from 05-13-11 "Is this Seadoo worth the money? 2000 Seadoo GTX Millenium". Kicker, I agree with your advice and you are making me question if a top end is all I need for mine. If you don't mind, look for my new thread tomorrow evening. I don't want to bog down TSmiths' thread with my problems. Thanks,