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Spark arrestor removal

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jon705

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Hi everyone,

I'm new to the forum and PWCs in general. Picked up a project - 1995 SPX - a week ago and am starting work on an engine rebuild. I'm to the point of removing the carbs. Is the spark arrestor glued or fastened in any way? The shop manual doesn't make that clear. The arrestor seems to be stuck and I don't want to pry if there are other fasteners to remove before pulling it out.

Thanks in advance for your help.

--Jon
 
Take the top cover off by removing the slice clips around the perimeter. Then remove the allen head bolts holding the retaining ring and filters in then the bottom of the plastic box will come off. THen remove the stainless steel brace connecting the carbs to the cylinder head and finally the allen bolts holding the aluminum base and carbs on.
 
Take the top cover off by removing the slice clips around the perimeter. Then remove the allen head bolts holding the retaining ring and filters in then the bottom of the plastic box will come off. THen remove the stainless steel brace connecting the carbs to the cylinder head and finally the allen bolts holding the aluminum base and carbs on.

It doesn't appear I am able to remove the 2 Allen bolts holding the carbs without first removing the arrestor. Is that correct? Is the arrestor fastened in any way or just sitting in the cavity?
 
if its the arrestor i'm thinking about.

YES it must come off, and yes its attached with screws from inside the arrestor under the cover.

82.jpg


83.jpg


once you pop the top lid off (note, there are clips on all 4 sides, I think 6 in all...) < don't quote me on 6.

underneath you will see 6 allen bolts < see above pic holding down the metal plate, that holds the screen in.

make sure when you remove the bolts, put them in the footwell, don't leave them sitting in the bottom of the flame arrestor, or they might roll into your carbs when you pop the screen. (ask me how I know that)

once those 6 allen bolts are out... she'll wiggle right off like a pair of panties on prom night.

Then you can pull the carb bolts.

now.. do that 4 times in one afternoon, 95 degrees while tuning your carbs, and you'll be ready to spend $99 on a set of proks :)
 
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if its the arrestor i'm thinking about.

YES it must come off, and yes its attached with screws from inside the arrestor under the cover.

82.jpg


83.jpg


once you pop the top lid off (note, there are clips on all 4 sides, I think 6 in all...) < don't quote me on 6.

underneath you will see 6 allen bolts < see above pic holding down the metal plate, that holds the screen in.

make sure when you remove the bolts, put them in the footwell, don't leave them sitting in the bottom of the flame arrestor, or they might roll into your carbs when you pop the screen. (ask me how I know that)

once those 6 allen bolts are out... she'll wiggle right off like a pair of panties on prom night.

Then you can pull the carb bolts.

now.. do that 4 times in one afternoon, 95 degrees while tuning your carbs, and you'll be ready to spend $99 on a set of proks :)


Thank you for the reply.
 
i think what you were asking is how to get the actual mesh out, once you pull the stainless ring that holds it down, you just stick a flathead in around the edge and pop it out. the screws that hold the lower part to the carbs will be accessible below.
 
i think what you were asking is how to get the actual mesh out, once you pull the stainless ring that holds it down, you just stick a flathead in around the edge and pop it out. the screws that hold the lower part to the carbs will be accessible below.

Yes that is correct. It was in there fairly tight so wanted to make sure I wasn't missing a step. Pried it out with your advice. Thank you.
 
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