Seadoo Sportster want throttle past 3500 RPM on both Engines.

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.
C

cobraclarkb

New Member
I have a 2002 Seadoo Sportster. Both Engines idle but want go past 3500RPM. Had boat worked on as it had sat for 4 years. They drained fuel rebuilt both carbs, added new fuel, got them running but said it would just cut out at 3500RPM. Took it out onto lake, and i got same results dies at above 3500RPM. They had also mentioned that they had bypassed the neutral safety switch. Ive read other post that say this Can't be done as it also limit the RPM to 3500, so i'm wondering if they had bypassed it and thought that might fix before they tried it with lever all the way forward and got same results and just left it bypasssed. Anyways im going to reconnect the Neutral Safety Switch in AM and then push lever in forward and see if it goes past 3500rpm. Has anyone else dealt with this issue before?
 
Last edited:
the wire used for the neutral switch is very thin and can easily get broken (or could have become a meal for a mouse) so test continuity on the wires as well.
 
So the service place bypassed the Neutral Safety Switch. Not exactly sure why. Of course I have to be honest i have never ran the boat or even cranked it out of water. Ive reconnected the Neutral Safety Switch and in neutral it Cranks and engines idle fine out of water. Now heres the part i dont understand but perhaps its the way it supposed to work. No Throttle past 3500 Rpm out of water. With the Neutral safety switch connected the minute i move to Forward the Engines cut off out of water sitting on Trailer.
Ive not put it into water just yet because its about a 35 minute drive to back it into the lake. I was also getting water into engine bay, which im suspecting it coming from the Portside Engine Rubber boot thats cracked. I ALSO DIDNT THINK MY sump pump was working at all, so i put in the plug and actually filled the bay with a little water until i heard the sump pump come on automatically, but i noticed no water was coming out, so i stuck a stick in and out shot some dirt and foam beads and then water started shooting out. Im now wondering if its worth backing it in the lake and starting it on the trailer and see what happens.
 
The way the switch works is : the boat will only start in neutral and will only throttle up to about 3000rpm in neutral. must be in forward to throttle up to WOT.
 
your forward/neutral/reverse control should not move unless both your throttles are right down to idle position.
 
rusty nail said:
The way the switch works is : the boat will only start in neutral and will only throttle up to about 3000rpm in neutral. must be in forward to throttle up to WOT.
Click to expand...
Ok, so i took it to the lake, but left it on Trailer. Fires right up and idles fine. Now with Neutral saftey switch re-wired it want start in forward gear but starts fine when in Neutral as expected. All good there, however in idle throttle as soon as i start to move to Forward or reverse the engines shut off. This is blowing my mind. I guess ive got to figure out the Forward issue. One last thing to note or add. When the Neutral Safety Switch was in by passed and wired together I could put it in Forward or reverse and Engines stayed running, but i still always had this 3500 Rpm issue, so frustrating. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Oh, by the way my leak is certianly coming in from the portside exhaust side, but with the sump pump now working its managable if i know im sitting to just keep it running. Gota fix that and its not easy to get too, but i want tackle that until i can get it to go above 3500 and stay running in forward or reverse.
 
the water coming in could be any number of things in the exhaust system.
-the boot where the exhaust exits is prone to leaking
-i had one boat where the resonator exploded from the previous owner because they did not winterize it properly
-any of the clamps could be loose
-cooling hoses

i would not rush this.....you may find yourself stranded or worse, at the bottom of the lake.
 
rusty nail said:
i think you need to describe what the engines sound like when they cut out.
Click to expand...
The engines fire up and idle fine, also will rev up to 3500RPM no problem. When i however return both to idle and start to push the stick Forward both engines will just shut off.

I also had a Key made, as i lost the orginial Key. This key beep 2 times when in plug it in. If the Boat is in Forward the key beeps 4 times and want start, as expected. Once i put in Neutral engines Fire up and will run up to 3500 no problem.

Leak issue: Yes, you are correct its the portside engines exhaust rubber boot. It is crack and allows water to come in. I gotta fix that before i take it out. All my test are being done on the trailer.

Im just frustrated with the Boat at this point. No ones been able to fix it. Seadoo doesn't make this particular Boat and im not going to spend a small fortune trying to get it running correctly again. Note: The only time it would run and allow engines to stay running when putting in forward was when the Netural Safety switch bypassed, but it still wouldnt go past 3500 rpm. Thats just not going to even get boat up off plain. Seadoo doesnt stand behind their products, so ill never purchase another one. At this point im consider parting the boat out, selling it as parts.
 
rusty nail said:
i think you need to describe what the engines sound like when they cut out.
Click to expand...
The engines fire up and idle fine, also will rev up to 3500RPM no problem. When i however return both to idle and start to push the stick Forward both engines will just shut off.

I also had a Key made, as i lost the orginial Key. This key beep 2 times when in plug it in. If the Boat is in Forward the key beeps 4 times and want start, as expected. Once i put in Neutral engines Fire up and will run up to 3500 no problem.

Leak issue: Yes, you are correct its the portside engines exhaust rubber boot. It is crack and allows water to come in. I gotta fix that before i take it out. All my test are being done on the trailer.

Im just frustrated with the Boat at this point. No ones been able to fix it. Seadoo doesn't make this particular Boat and im not going to spend a small fortune trying to get it running correctly again. Note: The only time it would run and allow engines to stay running when putting in forward was when the Netural Safety switch bypassed, but it still wouldnt go past 3500 rpm. Thats just not going to even get boat up off plain. Seadoo doesnt stand behind their products, so ill never purchase another one. At this point im consider parting the boat out, selling it as
rusty nail said:
the wire used for the neutral switch is very thin and can easily get broken (or could have become a meal for a mouse) so test continuity on the wires as well.
Click to expand...
The Netural Safety Switch appears to be fine, as its not allowing engines to start unless its in Netural. Not sure why after biats is running pushing the forward kills both engines, but when this switch was bypassed moving them forward at idle would not cause this. I however read that you Can't bypass the Netural Safety switch or it want go past 3500 RPM until the boat is in forward gear, so in my case its running at idle but with safety switch wired i cant put boat in fwd gear without both engines cutting off.
 
sounds like you have narrowed the problem with the neutral switch. i am processing this. If anyone else wants to chime in to help.
 
what i am processing right now is how the mpem is killing the engines. is it killing the signal to the coils?
 
i have the wiring diagram for the 98 speedster. not the sportster. if you pm me i can send you these documents if you wish.
 
My 1997 Challenger 1800 has same issue with starboard engine so I am following this thread carefully. A friend suggested the low speed jet is fine but the high speed jet must be malfunctioning. Any comment on that?
Engines start fine but my one engine kills above ~2500 rpm. Like someone hits the engine stop button.
 
cobra says both engines cut out, so unless both engines have exactly the same issue, it cannot be a carb related issue.

he also says the engines just die, and not "sputter out" (which would be fuel related). which indicates an electrical issue......if i am not mistaken.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

A
97 Seadoo Challenger 1800 Both Engines Shutting Off
Replies
8
Views
525
mikidymac
mikidymac
2
2000 XP 951 Cylinder not firing
Replies
4
Views
648
mikidymac
mikidymac
J
1998 Challenger 1800 Starboard Engine Bogs After 4000rpm-HELP!
Replies
4
Views
737
Jet Slicker
J
M
  • Locked
Sea Doo challenger 1999 (1800) Rev Limit to 3500 RPM on both engine. Black mpem
Replies
2
Views
384
mchiappinam
M
T
2016 seadoo spark - engine revs high RPM’s but doesnt accelerate
Replies
1
Views
494
ski-d00
ski-d00
Back
Top