I replaced it
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Rebuilt carbs with mikuni still bogs down
- Thread starter Donnym25
- Start date
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I'm stumped . Can u guys tell me what's next. So far I've
Rebuilt the carbs with genuine mikuni
Pressure tested the engine and passed
Checked the flywheel for missing teeth.none
Checked the timing with degree wheel.good.
Put in a different mpem from same year ski and that didn't work. Maybe try new one same exact one this time....
Unhooked the Rev limiter.same thing
Bypassed all fuel lines and filter by directly into good gas in a can
I'm just about stumped
Rebuilt the carbs with genuine mikuni
Pressure tested the engine and passed
Checked the flywheel for missing teeth.none
Checked the timing with degree wheel.good.
Put in a different mpem from same year ski and that didn't work. Maybe try new one same exact one this time....
Unhooked the Rev limiter.same thing
Bypassed all fuel lines and filter by directly into good gas in a can
I'm just about stumped
coreygmart
Member
@Donnym25 you should be using BR7ES plugs and the gap needs to be 0.50mm / 0.02inch. Do not assume your newly bought plugs are already gapped to the correct spec and you need to gap them yourself. I once bought some BR7ES plugs which were set to 0.80mm and my 90 SP ran terrible. Once I gapped it properly it ran perfect.
coreygmart
Member
Did you inspect the woodruff key when you had the flywheel off and aline the flywheel with the key when reinstalling? If the key is sheared it can cause the flywheel to shift during operation and cause backfire.
Do you have an ohm meter to test the resistance between the ignition coil? You need to remove the spark plug boots and between the wires it should read 8k - 15k ohms. If the results are off try cutting of 1/4 inch from each wire and test again.
Do you have an ohm meter to test the resistance between the ignition coil? You need to remove the spark plug boots and between the wires it should read 8k - 15k ohms. If the results are off try cutting of 1/4 inch from each wire and test again.
I
I'm getting all kinds of readings ohms wise. Nothing consistently. I tried a new set of truck spark plug cables previously from fing the air leak in the cracked oil hose. Maybe I will put back together and thry the new wires they are consistently giving about 10 ohms
Didn't remove the fly wheel. I just visually inspected it and there was very few metal shaving on the bottom of the flywheel case.
I'm getting all kinds of readings ohms wise. Nothing consistently. I tried a new set of truck spark plug cables previously from fing the air leak in the cracked oil hose. Maybe I will put back together and thry the new wires they are consistently giving about 10 ohms
Ok
I'll order new ones
coreygmart
Member
Did you cut back 1/4 inch off the spark plug wires and test again? I double checked the manual and it is supposed to be 9 - 15K. You mentioned you used another MPEM from a good working machine, can you also try swapping the ignition coil?
You do not need to retime the engine if you only remove the flywheel and put it back correctly, timing would only change if you adjusted the position of the stator behind the flywheel by moving it clockwise or counterclockwise, but in order to do that you would need to remove some bolts so you will be fine. To remove the flywheel, you will need to remove the nut and a puller to remove the flywheel off the crank, if you don't need a puller then your woodruff key is definitely sheared. But first try removing the nut and looking down the little slot to see if you can see the woodruff key sticking up, I have done this all before without removing the engine and have used my phone with flash to take a video to see the key is in good condition after removing the nut.
You can test the stator to check the generating coil and the battery charging coil.
generating coil: resistance between black and black/red wire from the stator should be 40 - 76 ohms
battery charging coil: resistance between yellow and yellow/black wire from the stator should be 0.05 - 0.6 ohms.
You do not need to retime the engine if you only remove the flywheel and put it back correctly, timing would only change if you adjusted the position of the stator behind the flywheel by moving it clockwise or counterclockwise, but in order to do that you would need to remove some bolts so you will be fine. To remove the flywheel, you will need to remove the nut and a puller to remove the flywheel off the crank, if you don't need a puller then your woodruff key is definitely sheared. But first try removing the nut and looking down the little slot to see if you can see the woodruff key sticking up, I have done this all before without removing the engine and have used my phone with flash to take a video to see the key is in good condition after removing the nut.
You can test the stator to check the generating coil and the battery charging coil.
generating coil: resistance between black and black/red wire from the stator should be 40 - 76 ohms
battery charging coil: resistance between yellow and yellow/black wire from the stator should be 0.05 - 0.6 ohms.
coreygmart
Member
Yes. The flywheel needs to be installed in correct position on the crankshaft and the woodruff key helps keep it in place, if the key is damaged or missing during operation the flywheel can start to shift and cause ignition problems.
coreygmart
Member
I strongly suggest to get a replacement MPEM as soon as you can, without the red/black wire plugged into the ignition coil from the MPEM you no longer have a rev limiter and the engine can rev out of control. If your out on the water and your pump leaves the water your engine will rev out of control and it can cause damage.
Will do. Plus I don't like not having the safety lanyard not working
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