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No fuel to carburetor after rebuild

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Bubulooski

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1994 sea-Doo GTX 657 dual carburetor
Before investigating thoroughly I purchased one of the cheaper rebuild kits and completed the task. i am now getting no fuel into the carbs.
I can get gas through the lines, there does not seem to be any air leaks, I also replaced the on, off, res selector, the Rotary valve and cover. It ran on a trailer not in the water before the rebuild. I seem to have went backwards in fixing the original problem.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
So you used a non genuine mikuni rebuild kit?

If that's the case then that's your problem.
I did order a new genuine mikuni kit yesterday from eBay, after investigating all possibilities.
I have some knowledge of how the system works but I don't know what is exactly happening to cause it not to get the fuel?
 
Its hard to say with the after market kits. Frequently the diaphrams they come with are garbage.

Also did you replace the pop-off springs? The ones that come in the after market kits will cause all kinds of problems. The genuine mikuni kits won't always come with springs and even if they do you will want to reuse the oem ones that were in the carb

Miki's carb rebuild thread is packed with useful info and will tell you just about everything you need to know
 
That makes sense, I did replace the springs only to find out that both the new springs and the old springs were out of spec. They call for between 22 and 29 psi I I believe, The old springs were at 40 psi, so I put the smaller springs in that fit within that range.
 
No, don't go changing springs to get the pop-off to a certain pressure. You have to use the correct springs, not just get the pop-off.
 
With the correct springs in place you may find that your pop off is still off.

To adjust the pop off you will bend the little rocker arm deal that is actuated by the springs. This procedure is detailed in the manual
 
Thank you for advice on the carbs, I replaced with genuine mikuni and got it running. But now I am back to and the original problem of it not starting in the water unless exhaust is out of the water. any help with this would truly be appreciated.
 
Compression is 120 and there is a new rotary valve and rotary valve cover i just installed.
I know compressions is low,I just would like to get it on the water until winter time and then do a rebuild on it.
 
At 120 psi you are at the very bottom of the acceptable range and there is a chance that is why it won't start in the water. Anything under 120 and they will typically not start in the water, that engine is done.
 
Forgot to mention make sure the gauge is somewhat accurate. The Harbor Freight ones are junk and not accurate.
 
Ok I was using a harbor freight one and that was reading 120 I went this morning to AutoZone and got a different one which is reading 135 ish on both cylinders. I am very over the moon with this reading but at the same time confounded as to why it will not fire up on the water?
 
i was able to start on water today but it died, it started back up than died again.
Is it possible that carb adjustments would cause this?
 
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