• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

No F1 fuse, now broken S1

Status
Not open for further replies.
rkkoeb

rkkoeb

Active Member
Hello

This is for a 1997 Seadoo GTS that the fuel gauge is not working. Two things. First my buddy went to do the repair and didn't see a F1 fuse but did see a S1. He removed the S1 and soldered it across. Now I know this is not correct but has he destroyed the unit now by removing S1 and soldering it? If not the second question is location of the F1 fuse. He cut the hole about 3/4" down and he said the S1 was the top fuse.

Thanks
Rick
 
It sounds like he confused the top reed switch with the fuse. If that is correct. It will always read full once the fuse is fixed. You can remove his work and fix F1 fuse and it should then work fine except for when the tank is full.
 
Ok I will be doing the work so I just want to understand what I need to do.

1) first I should remove the solder job on S1. Questions, what happens when I remove the solder job on S1 and it no longer has a "reed" in that location? (Very top one) What happen if I don't remove the solder job from S1?

2) Find the F1 fuse and remove and solder across

Thanks Rick
 
If you leave solder on S1 the gauge will always read full. If you remove S1 it will never read full and might even show empty when the float is all the way at the top.
 
Any suggestion for the location of the F1 fuse? He told me that he cut open the unit by the weep hole about 3/4" down and didn't see it.
 
I took the sending unit apart last night and did find the F1 fuse. Located way on the top of the unit. I removed the fuse and solder it across. I then removed the solder from the S1 Reed area. I installed the unit back in the jet ski and started it up. Still no fuel reading. Could the issue be due to the Reed removed? The float looked good and was not full of fuel and slid up and down freely inside the tube. Magnets were still attached.

Thanks
 
I can pick up a used unit in town for $45 that is currently working. Before I put this unit in should I remove the F1 fuse and solder it across? How often do they fail? I don't want to put it in and take it out again in a year. Thoughts?
 
If you made a good solder bridge and the float is good and the magnets are still in the float, then this does not sound like a fuel baffle issue. What trouble shooting was done to prompt your friend to make the repair?
 
Here is how you can test your existing baffle. Connect volt/ohm meter probes one to each port on the connector of the baffle. Slide the float up and down the inside of the baffle. if the ohm reading increases and decreases along with the movement of the float then there is nothing wrong with the baffle. You will need to focus on wiring and gauge for troubleshooting.
 
Gas gauge was not working. Shows empty. Reading the forum he came to the conclusion the F1 fuse was most likely bad. Now at the same time I notice the red oil lights is also on but the oil is full. Not sure if they are connected in any way
 
I am going to test the old unit tonight with a meter and see if I get any readings from it. If not I will replace with a used one I found in town but I am thinking of doing the F1 repair to it right away before I put it back into the machine
 
I just pulled my baffle yesterday, anticipating the F1 fix and found my float was saturated and wouldn't rise. Ohm meter showed readings when sliding the float up and down. Swapped out with a new float and reinstalled. If you are going to test the existing float to see if is saturated, make sure you test it in gas, not water.. it may still float in water but sink in gas..
 
Follow up: I pulled the oil sending unit our and found the float was broken. Replace with new/used unit and now the light is off.

Pickup up an used fuel sending unit for $45 yesterday. Tested with meet and it works perfect. Took the float out and made sure it did float in gas. Installed into jet ski and now fuel gauge works

Removed old fuel gauge and tested with meter. Did not work so either my solder job is bad or something with the reed is causing issues. Some day I will take apart and do the solder joint again and see if I can make it work so I have a backup.

Thanks for everyone's help
 
Question: I am not 100% sure that I put the correct fuel lines back to the correct spot on the fuel sending unit. Would the jet ski still run if they are not correct? I was able to start it and let it run for a few minutes but have not had it back out on the water yet.
 
Two are vents and return. Swapping those will not harm anything. And one is reserve and one is the main draw. So if it runs, you are either on the return or main supply. If you have them backwards, you will not have a functioning reserve. They are actually molded into the plastic on the top of the baffle showing what is what.
 
First thanks for everyone help on this project.

I did take a look at the hoses and found two were not on correctly so I changed them. I have now marked them for any future work. Again thanks for all the help
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

J
No neoprene seal on 1997 GTI
Replies
2
Views
79
mikidymac
mikidymac
R
boosted 2003 now no beep
Replies
0
Views
328
ryan101b
R
1
96 XP blowing 7.5 amp fuse and no power
Replies
4
Views
348
Stevie96xp
Stevie96xp
J
  • Locked
Another 7.5 amp fuse issue question.
Replies
4
Views
596
artr
artr
N
1994 gts no start
Replies
3
Views
321
Spider4real
S
Back
Top