Multi Function gauge issue on 96 SPX

[Pomoxis]

Hi all. Great site!

I have been researching threads and haven't really found an answer, so here goes ....

I have a 1996 SPX. The multi function gauge worked fine at the end of last summer. First time out this year, not so much. When the start button is pushed, all 4 lights light up and the fuel LED goes to full. Then, it goes to nothing, except for the fuel light is on, nothing else.

Obviously, power is getting to the gauge. I have tried to go through and check all the connections. I have not checked the fuses, but before doing so I wanted to find out if I even needed to. I guess my question is, where should I start to determine whether it's the gauge or something else?

Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[nitr0genics]

Could be internal fuse is blown on the pickup or the float is fuel-logged and just sinking, or magnets have become dislodged from float

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[Pomoxis]

Is the fuse in the gray box?

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[nitr0genics]

no it's in the fuel pickup unit itself, first I'd pull the unit and check if the float is fuel-logged and not floating, and check for missing/gunked up magnet in the float if magnet is present and clean reconnect pickup while out of tank and tip it up so the float travels up if the gauge doesn't recognise this then the internal fuse has more than likely blown, it can be replaced/bypassed but it means cutting open and resealing the unit, might be more practical to grab a used replacement

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[Pomoxis]

Ok .. I pulled the fuel baffle unit and checked it. Float is free and magnets are there. When I turned it upside down and tested it, same thing on the gauge, just the fuel light on.

Also, just to check further, I disconnected the oil sensor and the oil light came on.

Can I safely assume that the multi function gauge is okay and the fuel sensor is toast?

 

[nitr0genics]

Sounds like the internal fuse you really need to test it properly search Google for your workshop manual this will show you the correct procedure

to me though it does sound like the internal fuse which can be repaired

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[Pomoxis]

Also, the wires at the hinge of the hatched cover were kind of kinked and appeared to be in a bind. How would one test that circuit to see if could be the wires between the gauge and the sensor? I am thinking that if it is a wire issue and it caused the fuse to blow, I would not want to replace the baffle only to have the wiring blow another fuse.

I have the shop manual, but really didn't see a test procedure. I will look some more.

Thanks again!

 

[nitr0genics]

It's a common problem the internal fuses blowing on the pick ups and other than a visual inspection of the circuit (it's pink and pink/black on my gsx ).I'm not sure how you could test it

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[RebuiltSeadooBaffles]

You can do it your self or pick up a rebuilt one

 

[nitr0genics]

To test the info centre you will need a potentiometer to vary the resistance to see if the gauge acts accordingly these resistances should be listed in the workshop manual

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[Bills86e]

Your VTS houseing is bad.

Bills86e

 

[Pomoxis]

Why would VTS housing be bad? Trim and trim gauge work fine.

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[smc0922]

Measure resistance between the two wires from the baffle. Slowly rotate it so the float moves slowly up and down. Should be about 80-240 ohms between E and F (or F and E I never remember if 80ohms is full or empty). If the meter reads open circuit then it's the fuse. No worries about blowing another fuse- it doesn't draw power and is a common failure.

 

[Pomoxis]

Thanks for all the replies. I shorted across the plug and the fuel light on the gauge went out and it read full.

From all the responses and other reading I have done, I am confident it is going to be the fuse. So, if repairing myself, is it recommended to replace the fuse or just jumper it?

 

[smc0922]

You have to cut into the side of the baffle at the correct spot, remove the fuse with a soldering iron and then get a good solder joint between the two points. You're doing this on a printed circuit board so soldering skills are needed. And care taken when opening the baffle in the right spot. Personally a bright flashlight and some careful small holes drilled will get you there.