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Installed oil shutoff valve now the line won’t fill with oil

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Legacy37

Legacy37

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My 97GTI lost all the oil into the engine last year (less than 10 hours on new engine, grrrrr). I put a shutoff valve on the oil injection line. Today I fille the resevoir, opened the valve, the filter did not fill up. How do I know enough oil is getting through? Do I have the wrong valve? Here is a pic of it with the valve open (disregard the orange strap…it is my reminder to turn on the oil, lol) A secondary question is how much fuel line would I need to compketely re line this ski? 5D0AC2E9-1A7F-4B3C-AB53-B3247502C6DD.jpeg
 
Just going to put in my 2 cents for what it’s worth, You put the valve going to the RV chamber because the inner crank seals are leaking correct? I’m thinking most of the oil had leaked past the crank seals and the chamber has pressurized to atmospheric pressure, the oil isn’t going in because of the air in the RV cavity. Maybe try taking the spark plugs out and see if the oil goes in better? Does this possibly make any sense?
 
After looking at the picture again, is that valve on the oil line to the oil pump? If it is? What about opening the bleeder screw on the pump?
 
Looks like it is going to the oil pump. I always install the shut off valve on the large hose coming from bottom of oil tank to fitting under the carbs. I’ve never put one going to the oil pump?
 
SIMPLEARKANSAN said:
Looks like it is going to the oil pump. I always install the shut off valve on the large hose coming from bottom of oil tank to fitting under the carbs. I’ve never put one going to the oil pump?
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Interesting, I posted here last year to verify which line got the valve. I would put one on both lines if it will help. It flat filled the cylinders up with oil before
 
I looked over your old thread, and you were told by 1 very reputable guy to put it on the line with the filter but he retracted that and 3 or 4 other guys said to put it on the line going beneath the carbs that feeds the RV cavity with oil. Has your oil not still leaking into your crankcase? Before you do anything, take the plugs out and crank the engine in case there’s any oil in there.
 
Are you still getting oil in the engine? Read a little further into you which line thread and @etempletentioned he was still getting oil in the engine after putting a valve in the line to RV and was considering putting another shut off in the return line
 
I checked, only residual oil from last year in the engine. I guess I will put a valve on the other one as well. Is it 5/16”? Do i need to bleed the pump line as well?
 
I want to tell you to remove that valve from the line to the oil pump but it seems to have fixed your problem so not sure, it definitely needs to have no air air in it. Try loosening the bleeder screw in the pump and see if it fills with oil.
 
Legacy37 said:
Thanks! Going to order new. The old gray stuff had been replaced with some blue see through stuff, that is now cracking and breaking
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Yw, I have a machine that has similar line and I can smell fuel. I will also have to change all that line and that’s not cheap either, not sure but I think it takes about 18 feet of line
 
Never ever put a valve on the oil injection line.
If that is the cause of the oil flooding then replace the oil pump or check valves.

the only line that should ever get a valve are the 12mm ones supplying the rotary gear.

You need to open the bleed screw to get the oil into the injection line. If that doesn't work then it is air locked and out need to pull the line off the filter for a split second and reattach.
 
burtshaver2021 said:
I looked over your old thread, and you were told by 1 very reputable guy to put it on the line with the filter but he retracted that and 3 or 4 other guys said to put it on the line going beneath the carbs that feeds the RV cavity with oil. Has your oil not still leaking into your crankcase? Before you do anything, take the plugs out and crank the engine in case there’s any oil in there.
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Please tell me it wasn't me that gave bad info, LOL.
 
mikidymac said:
Please tell me it wasn't me that gave bad info, LOL.
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I'm thinking the cluprit was me. If it was me....I should kick my own azz for not checking my post prior to hitting reply. LOL Thankfully we have one another keeping us straight. :D
I made a video yesterday when I was testing the oil check valves on the 951 DI. I test the hell out of them. I think that is a reason some engines fail after only a few hours run time. Gotta make sure those checks are working properly. I got an engine back from a rebuild and one of the valves was pugged. That engine wouldn't have lasted long, warranty or not all that work can be a real pain in the azz if you have to do it twice. Once is definitely enough.
 
As far as filling the filter with oil, disconnect the oil line from the discharge side of the filter. Hold the discharge end of the filter so the open end is facing upward. You'll have to hold that discharge end "below" the level in the oil tank to get it to fill completely with "no air" inside the filter chamber. Make sure the oil line below the filter connection is full. Quickly connect the end of the filter to the line leading into the injection pump. I am anal about any air in the oil filter but the oil still flows... air or not. LOL Good Luck and get that valve out of that oil pump feed line.
 
Is it possible a bad oil pump or check valve allowed to oil into the engine? I checked it today with the oil pump line valved off and the rotary valve open…no loss of oil in 24 hours.
 
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