• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

Impeller choice for 2001 Sportster LE

Status
Not open for further replies.
N

Never Satisfied

New Member
I want to replace what I believe is the stock impeller for one with better low end to pull my kids. My boat will run 50+ with whatever is in it but struggles when pulling tubes now that the kids are getting older and bigger. Anyone with a good option they have used? 40 is more than fast enough, need that pull out of the hole.
 
My guess is one size smaller would be the limit, and I hesitate to say this would work well. Easing into the throttle does help improve acceleration if the impeller is cavitating (mine cavitates with sudden application of full throttle and me behind boat on slalom ski)

Make sure your existing impeller and wear ring are in good condition. 50MPH sounds like pretty good condition if this is true GPS speed not the incorrect dashboard speedo.

I cannot get up on the single ski behind my Sportster if the driver doesn't ease into the throttle a little, to avoid cavitation. And yes my pump isn't quite 100%, which doesn't help either.
 
OK, did some checking and I see the stock impeller is an 11/20. Skat trak makes a few options for the 155.5MM pump.

10/16
13/19
13/20
13/21

I'm not an impeller expert but if it's anything like boat props going from an 11 pitch to a 13 pitch will not help my low end pull unless the Skat Trak is designed differently. The 10/16 seems like it will really slow it down and worries me that the kids will be over revving the engine on the top end. Thoughts?
 
Yep, you've got the concept. What RPM are you obtaining?

My boat is actually pretty far from hitting the rev limiter. I don't run WOT very much, short bursts is the best way I can describe. The reason is, my feeling is the 951 is at design limit of piston velocity given stoke length any faster is going to produce too much heat.

FWIW, My after-market impeller (no idea of what it is) limits WOT RPM to about 6,800 or so on a good day. It's rare for me to see 50MPH on the speedo, just a couple of times in good water and low wind.

I intend on obtaining a factory impeller if possible, for my pump rebuild when the time comes.
 
Skat-Trak Sea-Doo Swirl 155/83 Swirl Impeller is what Skat recommended to improve hole shot on my boat. I have yet to buy it, but its on the list.
 
It'm going to pull the pump and check the wear ring. I called Scat Trak today and they said the stock impeller is pretty good, they claim they built it for Sea Doo. He wants me to eliminate the stock carbon ring set up and go to the 1994 style greaseable bearing. We'll see.
 
bigtexan99 said:
Skat-Trak Sea-Doo Swirl 155/83 Swirl Impeller is what Skat recommended to improve hole shot on my boat. I have yet to buy it, but its on the list.
Click to expand...

There are a bunch of pitches available in that style but the guy I talked with said none will perform much better than stock.
 
You'll need the impeller spline tool to remove (unscrew) the impeller from the shaft and reveal the Seadoo part number.

Follow the service manual to the "T", you don't want it unscrewing off the shaft out on the lake! (Torque Wrench and locktite on threads)
 
The Solas 15/20 is the way to go. They're high torque impellers meant to get you out of the water quick which is great for tube and skiing without bogging down the engine and maintaining your top speed at 50ish MPH, RPM should be 6800 at top speed and the rev limiter should top out at 7200.
 
Got mine out, it is stock but is really beat up on the leading edge and looks like someone ground on it before. Struggling to go to this 15/20 Solas as the stock is supposed to be an 11/20. They do look completely different and probably react differently. My wear ring doesn't look bad, there is some plastic on the outer edge of the impeller so I know I has touched even though it looked like it can't. I can see light all the way around the ring so I'm sure that had something to do with the poor low end performance as well. I will put a new one in.

I have a couple other questions, how much oil is supposed to be in the cone and what is the torque on the impeller?
 
I fill my cone in the horizontal position mounted on the back of boat, to the bottom of fill hole. This isn't the scientific way, but I think if you fill it sitting vertical on the bench it might be too much.

I know the jet ski service manual does specify the volume.

The impeller will likely rub a new wear ring, this way the clearance is tight as possible. Sometime the fit can be so tight it's hard to start the engine so in that case put some dish soap in the impeller area as a lubricant for the 1st startup.

If your impeller is torn up there's no wonder your low end was suffering.

bkwashby recommends the Solas Concord 15/20, I have no reason to argue. Most references I see refer to this one.

Original part is 204160136, 11/20 pitch The photos of the OEM impeller I've seen appear to have a straight leading edge, not curved.

Our boats used the same impeller as the jumbo sized LRV ski used (FWIW).
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Never Satisfied said:
Got mine out, it is stock but is really beat up on the leading edge and looks like someone ground on it before. Struggling to go to this 15/20 Solas as the stock is supposed to be an 11/20. They do look completely different and probably react differently. My wear ring doesn't look bad, there is some plastic on the outer edge of the impeller so I know I has touched even though it looked like it can't. I can see light all the way around the ring so I'm sure that had something to do with the poor low end performance as well. I will put a new one in.

I have a couple other questions, how much oil is supposed to be in the cone and what is the torque on the impeller?
Click to expand...
Trust me the 15/20 is no worries. It bites the water good to get you up on plane quick, you will lose about 300 RPM at full throttle but will maintain your top speed, might even give you an extra 1mph if your compression is above 135psi/cylinder still. The spec book calls for 52 ft-lbs torque on the impeller and it never hurts to replace the wear ring especially if there's scoring in it. The impeller shouldn't touch it though, your clearance should be less then .040" all the way around and the impeller should have no side to side play otherwise the bearings and seals should be replaced in the pump. When filling the pump cone, lower the front of the boat as much as possible on the trailer (that makes any air bubbles in the pump flow toward the cone when filling it) and fill the cone as much as possible. You'll have it let sit for a few and keep topping it up every few min as the air bubbles allow the oil to go in but keep doing it till there are no more air pockets and the cone is right full.
 
Never Satisfied said:
Got mine out, it is stock but is really beat up on the leading edge and looks like someone ground on it before. Struggling to go to this 15/20 Solas as the stock is supposed to be an 11/20. They do look completely different and probably react differently. My wear ring doesn't look bad, there is some plastic on the outer edge of the impeller so I know I has touched even though it looked like it can't. I can see light all the way around the ring so I'm sure that had something to do with the poor low end performance as well. I will put a new one in.

I have a couple other questions, how much oil is supposed to be in the cone and what is the torque on the impeller?
Click to expand...

By the way, don't ever use red locktite on anything on your engine, impeller, anything. You'll never get it off again and if you do it will take the threads with it. Also I forgot to mention if you have to replace the bearings in the pump, you should probably replace the pump shaft too. I recommended the Solas Concord over the skat-trak because the Skat-trak gets you up on plane quick but you lose top speed with them.
 
Yep, always consult the service manual. It's important! Often the small stuff really can bite you, factory knows this and makes the effort to give you the info you need, it's worth the time and I always do that myself.

Says: 85ft-lb, Locktight blue(243) and the primer for that as well.

We all agree a tight clearance is best case, right? If your bearings and shaft are worn the final tolerance might be greater than ideal. It's very common for the impeller to rub initially, this is how a tight clearance is obtained thus Bombardier clearly describes this strategy in the manual.

This info came from the 2001 jet ski manual, no manual was published for these boats as far as I'm aware thus I "make-do".
 

Attachments

  • 951 Impeller Torque.jpg
    951 Impeller Torque.jpg
    149 KB · Views: 17
Last edited by a moderator:
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Yep, always consult the service manual. It's important! Often the small stuff really can bite you, factory knows this and makes the effort to give you the info you need, it's worth the time and I always do that myself.

Says: 85ft-lb, Locktight blue(243) and the primer for that as well.

We all agree a tight clearance is best case, right? If your bearings and shaft are worn the final tolerance might be greater than ideal. It's very common for the impeller to rub initially, this is how a tight clearance is obtained thus Bombardier clearly describes this strategy in the manual.

This info came from the 2001 jet ski manual, no manual was published for these boats as far as I'm aware thus I "make-do".
Click to expand...

My spec is from the manual for the boats.
 
That link is just a photo? Amazing though, I haven't seen it before so now I have to look more to see if there really is a FACTORY Sportster LE manual, lol.

In the bottom-most chart I added here, you can see the 1999 boats using the small 139.5mm pump specify 52 ft-lb, just like the skis with the small pumps. Same pump same torque, not less b/c it's a boat but size of fasteners and weight of components selected for quantity of power. This link is for specs:

http://www.sea-doo.net/SHOPMANUALS/...2004-2005/lmt2005-001_pour CD2004 et 2005.pdf
 

Attachments

  • 951 Impeller Torque.jpg
    951 Impeller Torque.jpg
    349.5 KB · Views: 26
Solas also has a ST-CD 14/19 & 10/16 which are the same style as the 15/20 referenced above

They also make a ST-DF Dynafly 13/19. They are al about he same price, top end isn't my concern. Thoughts?
 
If that's the stock impeller, I'd probably send it to Impros and ask to have it repaired. I haven't found much detail concerning how people use their Sportster LE's to determine something aftermarket solved or helped anything besides outperforming their old mangled impellers.

Impros should be able to repair, reshape and drop the pitch if you feel like experimenting. I have an impression some shops are guilty of not actually restoring the outer diameter, and this can leave way too much gap.

Other parameters you might consider are the hub shape and diameter, Impros might have some experience, wisdom or magic to share.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

labirra
Sportster LE DI 2004 misfires
Replies
5
Views
274
mikidymac
mikidymac
E
Help Removing drive shaft from 2002 GTI LE
Replies
3
Views
273
rusty nail
rusty nail
J
New to me 2018 Spark trixx 2 up 50hr
Replies
0
Views
551
jhanratt
J
DylanKnapman
2024 Spark Trixx 3UP - Acceleration issue, sucked up some rocks
Replies
6
Views
574
Stevie96xp
Stevie96xp
Ed Clark
Clutch Slipping aka Cavitation aka Ventilation: AI's Take on the Whole Thing
Replies
1
Views
193
mikidymac
mikidymac
Back
Top