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RESTO GTi 717 ???

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cosmic12

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Newbie here with some questions about a 1996 GTi that I just got.
1st what really is the HP on a 717 I have seen different #s from 46 to 85 ???
2nd Is this a good reliable engine? I have been told it is the best one to start with. True?
3rd, are there performance parts like pipes/carbs/pumps/or any other parts out there for it as I am thinking it just won't be enough for what I need. the HP rating has me confused, I a need it to be the 85 or as close to that as possible. Somehow I just can't see them putting 46hp in something this big. Whats the real deal?
 
The 717 is 85 hp and is arguably the most reliable engine seadoo made. There are performance parts but I would not bother. If you find yourself wanting more power sell the ski and buy another.

I had a 97 GTI with the 717 (newer hull design) and when the wife got bored I sold it and bought her the 97 GTX with the 787 (110 hp). Same exact ski except for color, engine, and gauges. She is very happy with it. I was even surprised in the power difference from the GTI as I figured a lot of it had to do with the big 3 seater hull.
 
Yes, either twin or single carb 720's have always been rated at 85HP.
Seadoo didn't have a 46 HP engine, even the little 580 made 55 HP.
 
I bought the same unit last year and love it. I have lots of fun with the grandkids on it and 50+ MPH. Is fast enough for the Wife and me.
 
There is a saying here: You want a faster ski buy a faster ski. They are all built to get the optimized performance out of the engine and pump. It's not like a car or motorcycle. You can't just bolt on parts. All the settings and perimeters, volumes and flows are at their perfect levels for the engine, intake and exhaust. You change one thing and you have to adjust 3 others. A constant tuning nightmare! Then it lowers the life of the engine. I would rather pull the choke. hit start, and go.
 
GTI and 37 017.jpgThanks guys, The 46hp (really what they say is 46.5) comes from the NADA price guide and a couple other sites while doing a goggle search. I really didn't think it was possible it be that low but stranger things have happened.
I got this real cheap and it seems to run fine but the guy said that the oil pump was bad and that it would fill the bottom end with oil over night so he put a small on/off valve inline from the tank to the pump. This makes no sense to me at all, shouldn't there be a inline 1 way/ ck valve on it somewhere? Might that be bad?
I finally got it in the water and ran it yesterday and it smoke's like there's no tomorrow but runs strong, idles fine but wow the smoke. Could the oil pump itself be bad? Also at WOT it hits the rev limiter a bit, impeller or wear ring bad?
 
The issue is that the inner crank seals are bad. Putting the valve in the RV oil line can prevent oil from seeping into the crankcase while in storage but you have to be careful to turn the valve on every time you run the ski. Most people put the lanyard on the valve when you shut it off so that you won't forget turn it on the next time.

If the seals aren't horrible, you can get by with this for some time. If it gets so bad it floods with oil when sitting a few minutes on the lake or fouls plugs constantly, then you would be in for a complete engine rebuild.

Hitting the Rev limited is usually the wear ring. Does this happen on takeoff? You should be able to shine a flashlight in the rear of the pump and check the impeller to wear ring clearance. It should be no more than a dime.
 
Here's my very first 717/720cc it was a SPX 1996 it absolutely smashed along at quiet a pace i think it was actually over propped as it would cavitate if u took off hard on the throttle

this little 85hp 717cc motor was very reliable, the previous owner had cut the oil injection cable knob off the oil pump end and ran some makeshift connection dodgy AF but it worked but in doing so they ran it ever so slightly richer and every 5 hours there abouts it use to foul plugs maybe someone has done something like this to yours

i miss this ski i purchased it in 2001 sold it in 2004-2005 always wished i could find another one for a reasonable price

http://www.bikepics.com/seadoo/spx mine is the 5 pic's with engine and seat off
 
These don't smoke very much (just a little) when all is right.

Could be:
Oil pump is out of calibration adjustment/ cable is disconnected/ spring on pump lever is broken. (makes smoke)
Oil injection nozzles are stuck open. (floods crankcase with oil, smokes maybe)
Crankshaft inner seals are leaking (this allows oil from the rotary valve gears to seep into crankcase).

These should not be using TCW3 outboard oil. If yours is, it's best to clean out remnants of the old incorrect oil from the tank and lines then empty/replace the in-line oil filter, then refill with the correct oil. This is a good time to check the oiling system completely, replace the small 3/32" tygon F-4040-A oil lines b/c they rot and clean the injector nozzles.

Make sure to grease the 1 or 2 fittings as per the manual and change the pump oil, plugs once a season.

Then go ride. Mine was very stable under way and kept up very well with the "larger fancier faster" other brand 2-stroke skis of the time that cost more.

It's just a cool ski, mine never had any problems till stupid me I sold it in a moment of weakness. These put Seadoo on the map and almost like an antique Vespa people will be looking for complete ones (IMO).
 
Make sure the bell crank on the oil pump control has spring tension. Someone may have not put the cable on right or the spring is toast. The seem to default if the cable is wrong to full injection of oil. It is easy to screw it up when putting the carb back on. You can get repair manual off the Internet for free. You can't wrench find a friend that can. Going out with you and the Ski goes a long way.
 
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