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Fuse issues

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97GTS

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I have a 97 seadoo gts with a 717 engine and the last time I went out the engine would only turn over one or twice and then nothing... No beeps giving me a warning that something was wrong... so I figured it was a battery issue and plug it up to my truck and it still wouldn't start... so I did alittle trouble shooting on the lake and found out that my 15amp fuse was blown so I replaced it and as soon as I did and plug the lanyard in the fuse blew again and again... I dont know if this has anything to so with the engine issues but I would like to get my ski up and running next season... any suggestions

Thanks
Chris
 
You probly have an issue in the Stator. Metal bits from broken bendix, flywheel teeth
or starter. Remove the magnito cover then flywheel to investigate.
It takes three 4" long x 8mm by 1.25 thread pitch metric bolts screwed into flywheel only 1/4" (or you'll be into the coils behind it) to pull the flywheel useing an automotive three slotted harmonic balancer puller.

It is simple. Look for a line at the bolt slot on the 9 o'clock position of the stator when the stator is mounted so that the harness is in position to be clamped into place by the harness bracket plate that goes on over the wires.

Now look at the left side of the case at the stator mounting area by where that 9 o'clock stator hold down bolt goes. See the line in the case ?
After you bolt the mag housing back onto the motor, place the stator in there so those two lines are alinged with each other and bolt down the stator. Bolt the harness bracket back on over the wireing harness from the stator. Place the mag flywheel back onto the crankshaft. Replace the mag cover. Your motor is properly timed.

Stator test
The chain of power and ground for a pre-'97 720 has the ground going from the battery to the block then through the ground wire on the mag housing to the electrical box, so you cannot unplug the mag connector without losing your ground in the electrical box, but you can make a jumper wire to bypass the motor completely by running it from the neg terminal on the battery directly to the stud in the Ebox that has all of the black wires attached to it. Then, you can disconnect the mag plug. If that stops the fuse from blowing, you need a new stator.

Grey Connector (If you are replacing the coils)
It has a "tooth" between the prongs that you remove. Then push them out of the connector useing a .093 crimp pin extractor, A Detent tool. (radio shack #274-223). In Liew, I have used a metal ball point pen tube, with good results.

Hopefully its just small bits that can be vacuumned out.
It takes three 4" long x 8mm by 1.25 thread pitch metric bolts screwed into flywheel only 1/4" (or you'll be into the coils behind it) to pull the flywheel useing an automotive three slotted harmonic balancer puller.

It is simple. Look for a line at the bolt slot on the 9 o'clock position of the stator when the stator is mounted so that the harness is in position to be clamped into place by the harness bracket plate that goes on over the wires.

Now look at the left side of the case at the stator mounting area by where that 9 o'clock stator hold down bolt goes. See the line in the case ?
After you bolt the mag housing back onto the motor, place the stator in there so those two lines are alinged with each other and bolt down the stator. Bolt the harness bracket back on over the wireing harness from the stator. Place the mag flywheel back onto the crankshaft. Replace the mag cover. Your motor is properly timed.

Stator test
The chain of power and ground for a pre-'97 720 has the ground going from the battery to the block then through the ground wire on the mag housing to the electrical box, so you cannot unplug the mag connector without losing your ground in the electrical box, but you can make a jumper wire to bypass the motor completely by running it from the neg terminal on the battery directly to the stud in the Ebox that has all of the black wires attached to it. Then, you can disconnect the mag plug. If that stops the fuse from blowing, you need a new stator.

Grey Connector
It has a "tooth" between the prongs that you remove. Then push them out of the connector useing a .093 crimp pin extractor, A Detent tool. (radio shack #274-223). In Liew, I have used a metal ball point pen tube, with good results.
 
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