Fixed - 1996 XP Running after 3 year rebuild but driveshaft leaking

[shattered00]

Hello all,

I have been fighting to get the first 96 working before summer, and despite many obstacles that hopefully don't turn out to be omens which were meant to prevent me from ever getting on the ski on the lake, I have gotten it to turn over and stay running.

I backed it into the lake on the trailer and cranked it up and the driveshaft is leaking to the extent that it is like a water faucet is on very low. The leak appears to be coming from around the silver support ring at the end closest to the flywheel. I used a WSM brand new kit with both o-rings. The half ring piece that keeps the support ring from sliding forward appears to be in place as well.

First, is there any way to fix this leak without taking the jet pump off again. The scraping off of all the black Permatex stuff is definitely not enjoyable and took me about 4 hours last time I screwed up by leaving a bumper off of one of the driveshaft ends.

Second, if there is no other way to diagnose or fix this leak, what could I have done wrong that led to this leak? As far as I can tell, I followed the diagram and manual properly. All parts were brand new. I don't want to have to buy a whole other carbon seal kit if nothing is wrong with this one cause they are 50+ dollars.

Here is a link to the video where I am showing the carbon seal and how it is fitting on the driveshaft to see if that helps any diagnosis.

Here is a link to the video showing the ski startup just for fun. It is the first time it has cranked and ran idle since 2009 which is the last time that the previous owner. Its been a three year battle but I am close to having two running skis.

If you need any more information or a better video with me doing something specific, please let me know.

Thank you for any guidance.

 

[drjack]

Did you replace the rubberized shaft bellows? They can get stiff through time, and not supply enough pressure to push the carbon seal against the chrome "top-hat".

 

[etemplet]

Replace the seal and the bellows rubber and ride it like you stole it.

 

[shattered00]

The rubber bellow and the seal were new in the kit as well. So is it likely that I just got a defective new kit and getting another one will solve the leak? Just want to make sure I didn't do anything incorrect before I throw the money down.

 

[Ankeneyou]

Is it leaking where the carbon seal and top hat meet or where the driveshaft comes out of the top hat?

Personally I dont like any of the aftermarket bellows, I always go OEM for that as every aftermarket I've tried is way too hard.

 

[shattered00]

It is leaking where the carbon seal and top hat meet. Like a dribble or low volume stream of water similar to if a water faucet was turned on the lowest volume. I was hoping it was something I did wrong and not a bad part. The bellow appears flexible (in the video I show it moving back and forth) but I don't know if that is normal or not.

 

[etemplet]

Try putting a little good grade of sealant on the rubber where it connects to both ends (hull and carbon piece) then securely tightening the hose clamps. Worth a shot.

Scratch that... if it is leaking between the faces you may have some foreign matter in between the faces. push the carbon away from the rotating part of the seal and try to clean it off. You may be able to see the condition of the carbon surface. Might just be debris in there which can happen. Then you can seal the ends of the bellows with some sealant and tighten the clamps securely.

 

[Ankeneyou]

If it is leaking there then you are not getting enough pressure on the carbon seal from the boot.

1. Unclamp the rear hose clamp and move the boot as far forward as you can on the through hull fitting and tighten.

2. If #1 doesnt work, try putting a zip tie or two on the bellows between the ribs which can help it push forward. If this stops the leak then you really only have the choice of replacing the bellows with a new one.


Also, make sure there is no grease or oil on the carbon ring face. And check to make sure the mating surface is perfectly flat and has no manufacturing defects. If it's not perfectly flat, you can lightly sand it on a flat surface but this requires removing the pump.

The pump should never take more than 10 min to remove. It sounds like you are using all silicone to seal the pump which is a nightmare. You should be only using a neoprene seal and small dab of silicone around the top on each of the 3 pickup tubes run to the hull.

 

[shattered00]

It is leaking here I believe (not my photo but I "edited it" with childlike skill).

 

[shattered00]

Okay, I will give those tips a try. Thanks a lot folks! Will follow up with post to advise whether it was fixed or not once I can get it back out to the boat ramp.

Edit: Yeah, I have been using the black Permatex Ultra and putting it around the jet pump as it meets the hull and around where the three tubes go in (along with the neoprene seal). I guess that is why it literally takes me forever to even pull the jet pump off and then another several hours to remove the black stuff with light sandpaper or my fingernails.

 

[Ankeneyou]

Ok, that's different then. If its leaking there there has to be something wrong with the o-rings on the shaft.

 

[mikidymac]

You need to make sure the two o-rings are seated in the grooves of the stainless hat and are well greased if it is leaking where you showed it circled in pink. The two o-rings are the only thing that seal that spot.

You will have to pull the pump and driveshaft to check the o-rings. Alos be sure both rubber bumpers are intact and good condition.

Also stop using silicone and get the correct neoprene seal for the pump. The only place you should be using silicone is around the water tubes.

 

[Matt Braley]

Grease the pto

 

[shattered00]

Thank you all for the help!!! Took the ski out today and put it in the water while on the trailer. A combination of greasing the PTO more until the grease came out of the fitting and moving the boot forward as much as I could (maybe a CM) has FIXED the leak. The ski was ridden for the first time since 2009 if the previous owner was accurate with his timeline. Of course, now I have a new problem which involves major bogging and inconsistent throttle response but there was forward momentum!! I had thought I purchased a genuine Mikuni kit when the carbs were rebuilt but checked my purchase history and it was an aftermarket one from a company called JSP manufacturing. I will be searching for a genuine kit now to hope that is the problem. Thanks again for the help.