eBay Asaki Pistons

[Spider4real]

Hello all,

Seller: boatpropeller

I was wondering if anybody tried pistons from this eBay seller? From Taiwan.

Here is what I am looking at:

For PWC Jet Ski SeaDoo 580/587 Piston Kit 47-101, 290-886-270-STD + Piston Ring | eBay

I know pistons can be a hot button topic and most would avoid going down the cheap road, but to be fair I am talking about fixing a 30 year old ski (1992 Seadoo XP with a 587 engine) and my driving habits are more on the leisurely side.

Thanks,

Derek

 

[NickCawks]

For another 10-20 dollars you can buy wsm Pistons

 

[Spider4real]

If I lived in the US it would be a no brainer. But I am in Canada so the cost tends to be significantly different. The cheapest brand name I could find is 285 Canadian for 2 pistons, rings and circlips shipped to my door. WSM would be more. I found some for about 340 shipped to my house. These are 160 Canadian for 2 sets to my door. I get killed on shipping from the US and of course the exchange rate. Drives me crazy.

The seller has been selling on eBay since 2015 and seem to have positive reviews, but I would only risk it if I could find someone who maybe had a bunch of skis and maybe had one they were willing to experiment with in the name of science.

Anyway, I will drop the money on some name brand if need be, I was simply curious if anyone tried them.

 

[mikidymac]

Never heard of them.
Also keep in mind there’s really not many reasons to install std pistons as the only reason to replace pistons is if they are worn or damaged and for that you need to bore and hone to the next oversized ones that will get you back in spec.

 

[Spider4real]

I really do appreciate the replies. Thanks.

There is a reason I was looking at standard Pistons. But first let me give a bit of history on this ski. And sorry for the length. I am bad at keeping things simple and to the point.

I bought it 3 years ago as a project just for the fun of rebuilding something and making it run. I had no idea if I was ever going to use it or not. Turns out it was a lot of fun and I was having a blast on this old tippy and fun machine. This is what I did.

1) replaced the crankshaft with an SBT rebuilt one
2) had put in 2 WSM Pistons, rings. Tested the cylinders and they were within spec, l lightly honed them myself and they cleaned up really nice
3) cleaned carbs
4) replaced oil
5) tested the injection pump to be sure it worked. It was OK.
6) replaced the in tank fuel lines that rotted away and changed the filters
7) brand new CDI box (had no spark)
8) did some minor work on the hull

After the rebuild and break in I was getting 145 PSI on both cylinders. I used it for 1 year and after that year it still had 145 PSI on both cylinders. So I was quite pleased with myself.

After that I decided to take care of somethings I should have done before.

1) bought a mikuni carb rebuild kits and did both carbs. Was working like a dream after that.
2) reupholstered the seat
3) bought a choke cable
4) bought a blacktip handlebar cover (she is looking pretty snappy now)

And now halfway through year 2 of using it the engine died (year 3 of owning it). After pulling the engine I discovered why. The nut that holds the oil injection cable into the oil pump came loose and detached. So no oil and there goes the engine. So when I rebuilt the carbs clearly I did not properly fasten that nut when I put it all back together. I have dismantled the engine and the PTO piston and cylinder is badly scored, the mag piston and cylinder looks good.

So these are the options I was considering.

1) buy a used cylinder that was still usable and standard size to go with my one good one and replace both Pistons and rings. Seems a little sketch I know. But it was the cheapest.

2) Cylinder exchange program with SBT or Full Bore. Potentially the more expensive option but also the easiest and probably the most reliable of the options.

3) Take it to a local machine shop that does not specialise in 2 stroke Rotax engines to have them Bore it out and home it to the next size up and buy Pistons to match with it. I am worried about the lack of expertise when it comes to Rotax engines in my city. So this leaves me with option 1 or 2.

That's my story in a nutshell. lol...

 

[AKnarrowback]

I would have both cylinders bored over and spend the extra dollars buying pistons with a known track record. Only get the cylinders bored when you have a new piston to go with them to the machine shop so the machinist gets the best fit.

The problem is knowing if the badly gouged cylinder is still good even after a bore job. I would clean it up, hone it a bit to see how deeply it is gouged and work from there.


Regardless of how aggressive you are at riding it is still worth getting the right parts for a few extra dollars.

 

[mikidymac]

Send cylinders to Group K and bore to next size over. He can supply pistons or you can have cheaper ones drop shipped to him based on what size he needs.

I would avoid FullBore and SBT but that’s just my $0.02.

 

[POPPS]

Hello all,

Seller: boatpropeller

I was wondering if anybody tried pistons from this eBay seller? From Taiwan.

Here is what I am looking at:

For PWC Jet Ski SeaDoo 580/587 Piston Kit 47-101, 290-886-270-STD + Piston Ring | eBay

I know pistons can be a hot button topic and most would avoid going down the cheap road, but to be fair I am talking about fixing a 30 year old ski (1992 Seadoo XP with a 587 engine) and my driving habits are more on the leisurely side.

Thanks,

Derek

I live in stoney creek ont...where are you near?

 

[Spider4real]

Send cylinders to Group K and bore to next size over. He can supply pistons or you can have cheaper ones drop shipped to him based on what size he needs.

I would avoid FullBore and SBT but that’s just my $0.02.

Thanks, I will reach out to Group K

 

[Spider4real]

I live in stoney creek ont...where are you near?

I am in Ottawa, Ontario

 

[Jtamaro]

I would have both cylinders bored over and spend the extra dollars buying pistons with a known track record. Only get the cylinders bored when you have a new piston to go with them to the machine shop so the machinist gets the best fit.

The problem is knowing if the badly gouged cylinder is still good even after a bore job. I would clean it up, hone it a bit to see how deeply it is gouged and work from there.


Regardless of how aggressive you are at riding it is still worth getting the right parts for a few extra dollars.

I agree with AK.
you won’t miss those pennies in the future, especially for something that brings you fun.
I recommend the WSM pistons and rebore option

 

[Jtamaro]

I really do appreciate the replies. Thanks.

There is a reason I was looking at standard Pistons. But first let me give a bit of history on this ski. And sorry for the length. I am bad at keeping things simple and to the point.

I bought it 3 years ago as a project just for the fun of rebuilding something and making it run. I had no idea if I was ever going to use it or not. Turns out it was a lot of fun and I was having a blast on this old tippy and fun machine. This is what I did.

1) replaced the crankshaft with an SBT rebuilt one
2) had put in 2 WSM Pistons, rings. Tested the cylinders and they were within spec, l lightly honed them myself and they cleaned up really nice
3) cleaned carbs
4) replaced oil
5) tested the injection pump to be sure it worked. It was OK.
6) replaced the in tank fuel lines that rotted away and changed the filters
7) brand new CDI box (had no spark)
8) did some minor work on the hull

After the rebuild and break in I was getting 145 PSI on both cylinders. I used it for 1 year and after that year it still had 145 PSI on both cylinders. So I was quite pleased with myself.

After that I decided to take care of somethings I should have done before.

1) bought a mikuni carb rebuild kits and did both carbs. Was working like a dream after that.
2) reupholstered the seat
3) bought a choke cable
4) bought a blacktip handlebar cover (she is looking pretty snappy now)

And now halfway through year 2 of using it the engine died (year 3 of owning it). After pulling the engine I discovered why. The nut that holds the oil injection cable into the oil pump came loose and detached. So no oil and there goes the engine. So when I rebuilt the carbs clearly I did not properly fasten that nut when I put it all back together. I have dismantled the engine and the PTO piston and cylinder is badly scored, the mag piston and cylinder looks good.

So these are the options I was considering.

1) buy a used cylinder that was still usable and standard size to go with my one good one and replace both Pistons and rings. Seems a little sketch I know. But it was the cheapest.

2) Cylinder exchange program with SBT or Full Bore. Potentially the more expensive option but also the easiest and probably the most reliable of the options.

3) Take it to a local machine shop that does not specialise in 2 stroke Rotax engines to have them Bore it out and home it to the next size up and buy Pistons to match with it. I am worried about the lack of expertise when it comes to Rotax engines in my city. So this leaves me with option 1 or 2.

That's my story in a nutshell. lol...

I’m thinking I better check the nut that secures my oil injection line ….