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E10 fuel with stabiliser ?

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I am , I bought Sta-Bil Marine and I'm using it for all of my stuff except vehicles , I mix it in every tank and gas can as insurance even if it's not high performance. If you can try to buy a stabilizer made for Ethanol fuel if Sta-bil is not available for you.
 
I am , I bought Sta-Bil Marine and I'm using it for all of my stuff except vehicles , I mix it in every tank and gas can as insurance even if it's not high performance. If you can try to buy a stabilizer made for Ethanol fuel if Sta-bil is not available for you.
Thanks. Think I will get some then. This E10 is shite
 
Thanks. Think I will get some then. This E10 is shite
I know , we were lucky enough to have 93 Octane Ethanol free till last fall , but no more (((((. You can separate the Ethanol , but it's a hassle.
 
Given it is all E10 now, and specs don’t call for 93 octane is it still worth buying premium, or OK to just buy mid grade + preservative now?
 
Given it is all E10 now, and specs don’t call for 93 octane is it still worth buying premium, or OK to just buy mid grade + preservative now?
Yes , If you don't need 93 or higher just buy whatever is required. I always bought 93 because it remained ethanol free and put it in everything , quads , sleds mowers chain saws etc. But now I'll just buy regular grade with the additive , I recommended this to my friends with classic cars and they're doing the same , add the preservative with every fill. There is a day when the ethanol will go higher than 10% , on things like the Seadoos with high output engines the manual warns against any fuel higher than 10% ethanol , I guess we'll have to come up with a trick for fuel then.
 
Be careful to use the correct Octane for combustion. Problem with lower grade gasoline involved the cam shaft bearings where the piston rod connects. In the States, I use pump gas with Marine Sta-bil; even if the Marina claims it has the additive. Point is internally the lower octane ignites milli-seconds prematurely before the rotation of the piston at the COMPRESSION stroke is at the programmed timing; thus the internal struggle of energy creates repeated stress to the top half of the piston rod upper bearing in the engine; and over time will cause this bearing to fail and you get a broken engine and a list of related parts damage if not the least you are stranded somewhere and this involves an engine pull and rebuild of the pistons since one failed you should have your new best friend seadoo mechanic change all three. He should send you a Christmas card for the huge bill you will pay him for this very expensive repair. Also, proper octane gas will enhance the performance due to FULL power being transmitted to the impeller and not being expelled internally. Pay now for quality gas preserved for ethanol problems, or fuel tank pump crud gumming up and future engine rebuild. This is for the non-turbo seadoos since the top of the pistons are slightly different on the top for the top end high outputs. Calas Performance Racing in Florida puts out funny repair videos; but the guy knows his engines. Great vids to learn. Another topic: Too long rinsing after riding prematurely wears out your carbon ring due to no flush water at that point; only rinsing the exhaust system/resonator and impeller area. Hello excessive graphite dust trail inside the bottom of the hull. Time to pull back the rubber boot and look to see if you need to change it before it fails and you sink. Just saying.....Cheers
 
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