-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
Do you need to re-jet carbs when your cylinders are bored .5 over?
- Thread starter Jason997
- Start date
- Status
wfo speedracer
Active Member
No , no need to rejet
ravens9273
Member
I have a 2000 XP that just had the engine rebuilt to 1 mm over bore (from 88 to 89 mm). Still running same jets and it is fast.
From your picture it is hard to tell if you are missing anything since you only have one angle. I see one inside nipple on top empty. Most of the time inside nipples connect to the twin carb.
I did want to mention since you are asking these questions I presume this is your first time rebuilding carbs??
I actually sell rebuild carb kits and one problem I have seen with new people rebuilding their carbs is they feel they have to use every part in the kit. When it comes to changing the lever and spring I recommend to newbies to use the originals. There are many springs for these carbs and each has a different PSI strength. Your jet ski has a set "pop off pressure" that has to be to spec in order for your ski to run right. If you put the wrong spring in and the PSI rating of the spring does not meet specs for your ski it will not run right. The best thing in this case is to keep the original spring and lever in your carbs unless you have a pop off tester to make sure you are using the proper spring in the rebuild. Also make sure the lever end (part that sits on top of spring) tip is even with the floor. If you have it higher the diaphragm will hit in pushing it down. This will lead to your engine being filled with gas since the lever will lift the pin up creating a fuel leak. If you tighten the screw down and the tip is above the floor bend it with your finger until it is even with the floor. If it is lower then you can loosen on screw a little until it raises to the floor but if you have to loosen the screw too much tighten it back down and bend lever up until it is even just make sure the opposite end is not putting pressure on the pin because pushing the pin down too hard can damage the tip.
From your picture it is hard to tell if you are missing anything since you only have one angle. I see one inside nipple on top empty. Most of the time inside nipples connect to the twin carb.
I did want to mention since you are asking these questions I presume this is your first time rebuilding carbs??
I actually sell rebuild carb kits and one problem I have seen with new people rebuilding their carbs is they feel they have to use every part in the kit. When it comes to changing the lever and spring I recommend to newbies to use the originals. There are many springs for these carbs and each has a different PSI strength. Your jet ski has a set "pop off pressure" that has to be to spec in order for your ski to run right. If you put the wrong spring in and the PSI rating of the spring does not meet specs for your ski it will not run right. The best thing in this case is to keep the original spring and lever in your carbs unless you have a pop off tester to make sure you are using the proper spring in the rebuild. Also make sure the lever end (part that sits on top of spring) tip is even with the floor. If you have it higher the diaphragm will hit in pushing it down. This will lead to your engine being filled with gas since the lever will lift the pin up creating a fuel leak. If you tighten the screw down and the tip is above the floor bend it with your finger until it is even with the floor. If it is lower then you can loosen on screw a little until it raises to the floor but if you have to loosen the screw too much tighten it back down and bend lever up until it is even just make sure the opposite end is not putting pressure on the pin because pushing the pin down too hard can damage the tip.
- Status
