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Dess limp mode?
- Thread starter Pcox
- Start date
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I had posted another thread and only got one response. I acquired a 96 GTX that had been sitting for a couple years. I rebuilt the carbs changed the fuel lines and a few other mostly cosmetic stuff. Took it to the lake for the first time and it ran great but had a little cavitation on take off and the compression nut for the steering cable broke. Replaced wear ring and installed new seals with aluminum nuts for both cables. Took it back to the lake and still had cavitation and after looking more I believe it’s the carbon seal. But while running it the second time it started cutting out and I switched it to reserve even though it had a full tank of fuel in it and it picked up and ran good again. Shut ski off and it would hardly run. Once again it started running good on its own again with out me doing anything. Shut the ski off again and after that I had to limp back to the ramp with full throttle and it would only give me about 1100 rpm. The reason I asked the question was the first time I took it out I was using a different key that I have for the ski and I had read some stuff about limp mode but wasn’t sure when they started limp mode. Also the closest place for me to really test is about 3 hrs away so that makes it hard for testing.
Yeah I know it’s getting low but the ski still ran really good (no long cranks to start) and I’m trying to figure out what could cause a change by just turning the ski off (ie remove dess) and restarting it. If compression was an issue I would think it would be a pain to get started. Now I just have to give full throttle and it will fire up immediately but I have to hold full throttle to basically idle. I’m going back through the carbs right now.
Jtamaro
Member
Hi, are you sure the carby just needs a tune. Mine was the same after complete rebuild (bottom and top end, all valves and carbies). I did everything by the book, (carbie hi Lo needle adjustments) started perfect, revved perfect out of the water but first time in the water it struggled. I managed to do some minor adjustment on the fly and the result was amazing so just check it’s not that
Cheers
Jason
Thanks Jason and everyone else who has replied. I removed carbs and went back through them and adjusted per the manual. I did find water in them so I figured that was my problem. Installed them back on the ski drained all fuel and filled with fresh fuel and cleaned water separator. Fired it up and ran great. Then I noticed one of the plugs in the exhaust was leaking right over the top of the stator plug could cause ignition issues. Removed exhaust and repaired plug. Fired ski up and it wouldn’t rev past 4000 rpm. Removed red wire to rectifier and ski now revs to 7000 rpm and sounds very crisp. So I guess I need a new rectifier. So next question where is the best place to get a new rectifier as I’ve read mixed reviews on oem and aftermarket?
You nailed it with the rectifier. Thanks for the advise.
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