Challenger 2000 240 efi v6 starts idle for 2 seconds and stops

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tonytek

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hey guys hope everyone is doing well.
I can use your help trying to figure out my issues with a 2000 challenger 240 refi v6
I recently got the boat and don't have much info about it just that it did not run.
I changed the head gasket and drained the fuel tank.
currently connected the 3rd electric fuel pump to a regular 2 gallon gas container just for testing.
I Have heard of all the oil issues so I plugged all the oil lines and mixing my fuel with oil 50:1
I have not removed the oil pump its still connected.

so I go crank it and it immediately starts but idles for 2 seconds and stops.
I try it again and it will start up right away but only runs for 2 seconds.
I tried to quickly put it gear and rev it but no affect it stops.

I did try holding the key to the crank position and by doing this it does stay on idle but obviously this is not good for the starter.
I tried to rev it while cranking and engine on idle but obviously when you take it off neutral it kills the starter and 2 seconds later it stops.

I noticed that the the 1st fuel pump closest to the gas tank only runs while cranking is this normal?
I did run it directly to the battery to see if that was the issue but no change.

any direction that you guys can point me towards would be great.
Thanks
 
hey guys hope everyone is doing well.
I can use your help trying to figure out my issues with a 2000 challenger 240 refi v6
I recently got the boat and don't have much info about it just that it did not run.
I changed the head gasket and drained the fuel tank.
currently connected the 3rd electric fuel pump to a regular 2 gallon gas container just for testing.
I Have heard of all the oil issues so I plugged all the oil lines and mixing my fuel with oil 50:1
I have not removed the oil pump its still connected.

so I go crank it and it immediately starts but idles for 2 seconds and stops.
I try it again and it will start up right away but only runs for 2 seconds.
I tried to quickly put it gear and rev it but no affect it stops.

I did try holding the key to the crank position and by doing this it does stay on idle but obviously this is not good for the starter.
I tried to rev it while cranking and engine on idle but obviously when you take it off neutral it kills the starter and 2 seconds later it stops.

I noticed that the the 1st fuel pump closest to the gas tank only runs while cranking is this normal?
I did run it directly to the battery to see if that was the issue but no change.

any direction that you guys can point me towards would be great.
Thanks

The lift pump (closest to tank) is on a timer from the ECU. About 20 seconds.Can you check fuel pressure continuously? Should be 36psi with key on. Turn key off. How long does it take for pressure to reach 0psi?

Check all the system bleed hoses. Small black hoses that collect pooled fuel in the engine to be burned. These hoses split at the ends and cause vacuum leaks. These hoses can be replaced with Tygon. Be careful of the fittings. They are not very strong.
 
The lift pump (closest to tank) is on a timer from the ECU. About 20 seconds.Can you check fuel pressure continuously? Should be 36psi with key on. Turn key off. How long does it take for pressure to reach 0psi?

Check all the system bleed hoses. Small black hoses that collect pooled fuel in the engine to be burned. These hoses split at the ends and cause vacuum leaks. These hoses can be replaced with Tygon. Be careful of the fittings. They are not very strong.
Good morning Tim, when I turn the key to the "run position" (on click to the right) all I hear is a beep from behind the dash and nothing else no type of sounds like fuel pump turning on. that lift pump only turns on while i'm cranking the starter. is this normal?
thanks
 
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here is what i have tried:
current issue: crank it starts right up and stops in 2 seconds.
turn ket once to right: none of the fuel pump run.

when I crank the primer electric pump turns on and the high pressure pump runs.

i connected the primer pump directly to battery while cranking but same results.

I added constant power to the wire that engages the starter solenoid and disconnected the big 12+ cable to the starter. this cause both pump to run. I then manually touch the energized 12+ cable to the starter causing the starter to crank the engine. the motor turned on and i removed the 12+ to the stater so that the stater would not keep running.
results: engine kept running.

does anyone know how if the fuel pump should turn on when I turn the key one click to the right? because nothing happens.

also how do I know that the ecu/efi is getting power on my key position 1?


thanks in advance
 
Which generation of 240 do you have? 1st gen has round flywheel cover, 2nd gen has a larger, more square flywheel cover and there is an external alternator w/belt powered off flywheel.

The 240 has 3 fuel pumps. 1) The lift pump (the clickty-clack one) that runs for 20 secs when key-on (think of it as an auto primer - automatic fuel line squeeze bulb), 2) the pulse pump on the engine moves the fuel when the engine is running through the fuel/water separator into the VST (vapor separator tank). 3) And the high-pressure fuel pump in the VST feeding the injectors. When the key is in ON position, you should hear the lift pump going and the VST pump is also going (may not hear it) and pressurizing the fuel rail. If you don't start (but leave key ON) the lift pump times-out... and I think the VST pump also times-out. But as soon as you crank/start the engine, the VST pump is running constant.

Sounds like your VST pump is priming the fuel line, but not turning on once the engine starts?... thus the 2 second run and then stall. But when you hot-wired the pumps, it ran. If the VST pump is working (test with fuel pressure gauge on the VST fuel pressure regulator schrader valve), then perhaps your pulse pump is dead (can buy a rebuild kit for it) and the VST pump uses up the fuel in the VST that the lift pump first primed it with, but since the pulse pump is dead, no more fuel is coming and the engine stalls. But when you hot-wired the lift pump and VST pump, the lift pump did the job of the pulse pump??

The ECU controls the VST pump, although I have read of others who direct wired the VST pump to key-on power.

Cheers!
 
Which generation of 240 do you have? 1st gen has round flywheel cover, 2nd gen has a larger, more square flywheel cover and there is an external alternator w/belt powered off flywheel.

The 240 has 3 fuel pumps. 1) The lift pump (the clickty-clack one) that runs for 20 secs when key-on (think of it as an auto primer - automatic fuel line squeeze bulb), 2) the pulse pump on the engine moves the fuel when the engine is running through the fuel/water separator into the VST (vapor separator tank). 3) And the high-pressure fuel pump in the VST feeding the injectors. When the key is in ON position, you should hear the lift pump going and the VST pump is also going (may not hear it) and pressurizing the fuel rail. If you don't start (but leave key ON) the lift pump times-out... and I think the VST pump also times-out. But as soon as you crank/start the engine, the VST pump is running constant.

Sounds like your VST pump is priming the fuel line, but not turning on once the engine starts?... thus the 2 second run and then stall. But when you hot-wired the pumps, it ran. If the VST pump is working (test with fuel pressure gauge on the VST fuel pressure regulator schrader valve), then perhaps your pulse pump is dead (can buy a rebuild kit for it) and the VST pump uses up the fuel in the VST that the lift pump first primed it with, but since the pulse pump is dead, no more fuel is coming and the engine stalls. But when you hot-wired the lift pump and VST pump, the lift pump did the job of the pulse pump??

The ECU controls the VST pump, although I have read of others who direct wired the VST pump to key-on power.

Cheers!
thanks for the replay, I have the 1st gen, I did pickup a pulse pump rebuild kit today but I don't think that's my issue because on ON Position the VST or the lift pump do not turn run.
I need to find what wire would provide power from the ignition POSITION ON and go from there.
If I wire the VST pump to key on power meaning that it would be running all the time while the key is ON, would this cause any safety concerns?
thanks
 
Which generation of 240 do you have? 1st gen has round flywheel cover, 2nd gen has a larger, more square flywheel cover and there is an external alternator w/belt powered off flywheel.

The 240 has 3 fuel pumps. 1) The lift pump (the clickty-clack one) that runs for 20 secs when key-on (think of it as an auto primer - automatic fuel line squeeze bulb), 2) the pulse pump on the engine moves the fuel when the engine is running through the fuel/water separator into the VST (vapor separator tank). 3) And the high-pressure fuel pump in the VST feeding the injectors. When the key is in ON position, you should hear the lift pump going and the VST pump is also going (may not hear it) and pressurizing the fuel rail. If you don't start (but leave key ON) the lift pump times-out... and I think the VST pump also times-out. But as soon as you crank/start the engine, the VST pump is running constant.

Sounds like your VST pump is priming the fuel line, but not turning on once the engine starts?... thus the 2 second run and then stall. But when you hot-wired the pumps, it ran. If the VST pump is working (test with fuel pressure gauge on the VST fuel pressure regulator schrader valve), then perhaps your pulse pump is dead (can buy a rebuild kit for it) and the VST pump uses up the fuel in the VST that the lift pump first primed it with, but since the pulse pump is dead, no more fuel is coming and the engine stalls. But when you hot-wired the lift pump and VST pump, the lift pump did the job of the pulse pump??

The ECU controls the VST pump, although I have read of others who direct wired the VST pump to key-on power.

Cheers!
I was looking at the ECU wires, does anyone know what color is the power to the ECU?
How do I know that the ECU is getting power? just wandering
 
I was looking at the ECU wires, does anyone know what color is the power to the ECU?
How do I know that the ECU is getting power? just wandering

Carefully disconnect the 1" Ø connector right side of engine, bracketed to throttle body. Many pins inside. No bent or green pins allowed. The ECU is pretty robust, low fail rate.

Turn key to RUN. Put your hand on the VST. You should feel a smoothe motor running. You need a fuel pressure gauge here. What is the pressure? It is starting to sound like your inlet needle inside the VST is stuck. The housing for the needle is brass. The needle is aluminum. Electrolysis takes over and "locks" the needle in place. If the VST was full when stored, the the needle is in "closed" position.

If you still want to hard-wire, make sure everything is properly fused.
 
Carefully disconnect the 1" Ø connector right side of engine, bracketed to throttle body. Many pins inside. No bent or green pins allowed. The ECU is pretty robust, low fail rate.

Turn key to RUN. Put your hand on the VST. You should feel a smoothe motor running. You need a fuel pressure gauge here. What is the pressure? It is starting to sound like your inlet needle inside the VST is stuck. The housing for the needle is brass. The needle is aluminum. Electrolysis takes over and "locks" the needle in place. If the VST was full when stored, the the needle is in "closed" position.

If you still want to hard-wire, make sure everything is properly fused.
Good morning, Yes I confirmed that the VST pump of Primer pump will not run on key ON. nothing at all. only on Key crank position and once motor starts and key is on Position Run the VST and primer pump both turn off.
this is why im trying to find the wire that tells the eco that key is set to run position.
or even trying to check if the eco was getting power at all.
 
Here is the wiring diagram for the engine.View attachment 57212
Thank you I happened to find this same diagram earlier today....
ok so check this out!!! problem solved, I looked at wire by wire using the diagram making sure I had power all the way from the key (remote). it turns out that the previous owner did not install wire to the starter solenoid properly.
2 red wires were on the starter side of the solenoid instead of the constant power side getting power straight from the battery. Those two wires go to the each of the voltage regulators. Now when I turn the key to run I gave her the VST pump and the primer pump turns on for 20 seconds.
Thanks to you guys I learn more of the motor as to how the pumps are supposed to work.
Now that it runs im able to see what else is bad lol
 
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