Advice: 2000 Sportster LE Purchase

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umirza85

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Hello,

I am going to take a look at this 2000 Sportster LE in the next day or two. I am just wondering what I should be taking a look at when purchasing and what questions to ask? I don't know too much about boats.

This will be my first boat. He is asking $5900CAD but has offered to trade with a vehicle I am selling for $5000CAD so I know he will go at least that low.

Is this a good price? Would anyone be able to offer some advice? I can ask him to offer some money along with his boat to trade for my vehicle if anybody thinks this price is too high.

This is the how he has posted his boat:

2000 Seadoo Speedster 951cc LE
Excellent condition with brand new interior, rebuilt motor, new bottom, fuel lines, throttle cable and more.
Comes with boat trailer and cover.
Serviced by ***Removed Local Marine Shop***

I have attached 10 pictures of the boat in the following gallery: http://imgur.com/a/nqVhc
 
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Where are you located in Ontario.
$5000 is a good price. The blue isn't the blue on my boat. probably has been repainted to match the new seats.

1) Do a compression test
2) Do a water test.

Then you should be happy.

PS. I don't see the air silencer in the picture.
 
Well I don't know much but I know this,

1-It's the end of the season and boat prices are on the down turn due to winterizing and storage
2- 5000$ is steep IMO for this time in the season but understandable considering the condition of the seats and hull (if the engine is in good shape)
3- I strongly suggest you take it out for a test drive before buying it( I learnt the hard way) and check functionality of all the gauges
4- Take a look around and look at similar year boats and get a feel for the prices out there since you'll be storing it shortly it may be advantageous to be a little patient and try and snatch one up for cheap cus someone doesn't want to pay to store it
 
Thanks for such a quick reply everybody.

Where are you located in Ontario.
$5000 is a good price. The blue isn't the blue on my boat. probably has been repainted to match the new seats.

1) Do a compression test
2) Do a water test.

Then you should be happy.

PS. I don't see the air silencer in the picture.

Yes I am located on lake Simcoe in Innisfil.

1) Is a compression test something I can do, or does it need to be taken to a mechanic?
2) I will definitely ask to take it out on the water.


Well I don't know much but I know this,

1-It's the end of the season and boat prices are on the down turn due to winterizing and storage
2- 5000$ is steep IMO for this time in the season but understandable considering the condition of the seats and hull (if the engine is in good shape)
3- I strongly suggest you take it out for a test drive before buying it( I learnt the hard way) and check functionality of all the gauges
4- Take a look around and look at similar year boats and get a feel for the prices out there since you'll be storing it shortly it may be advantageous to be a little patient and try and snatch one up for cheap cus someone doesn't want to pay to store it

I wil try get him down a few hundred dollars for sure, makes sense that it is quite late in the season.
3) I will definitely try get it out on the lake, is there anything in particular I should be feeling for as I take it out? Ive never driven a jet boat before.
4) Thats also a great idea, Im a little hesitant because it is a 2000, but the price is exactly around what I am looking for.

What are the main sort of problems I would be looking at encountering with a boat like this? Just to make sure I can set aside some extra money in case of issues right off the bat (cross my fingers I don't have any hopefully) . Is there any sort of maintenance a boat like this should get regularly or have its parts changed? (i.e Timing belt, water pump, etc etc on a car)
 
You can go to canadiantire to buy a compression tester. about $29.99
Then you can do it by yourself:
- Fuel switch off
- remove both spark plugs
- throttle wide open
- screw on the tester into one spark plug hole
- start the engine for 6 seconds.
- read the number on the tester.

Have $1000 ready for fixes. This boat is fun with some fixes. I spent about $600 on a top end rebuild, and about $300 on pump repair.

Go to the boat launch with the owner. Don't let him get the boat ready at the dock then you show up!
You need to witness the "cold start".
Boat should idle around 1300RPM to 1500RPM and very stable all the way through the no wake area.
The boat should go min. 30MPH if only two adults on board. should get on plane in a few seconds from idle speed to about 5500PRM.

And just run it on the plane for a few minutes, then idle it for a few minutes then on the plane for a few minutes. then shut off the engine, and wait for 5 to 10 minutes to let the engine soak the heat, then start. do a few minutes testing at different speed. and run it at 3000PRM for a couple of minutes too.
 
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I have a 2001 sportster le i bought 3 years ago with new engine. After looking at the pics of the engine compartment looks like needs some tlc but the only thing is thatit does not look taken care of. When i bought my boat the engine compartment was perfect. Not to say that means anything but you would think with the work that was said to be done it would have been cleaned. Im just sayin. Do a compression test for sure
 
Also try and get as much history on the boat as possible such as what was done to it where it was done what type of gas and oil was run in the boat listen for backfires and oil leaks after the test drive

And shuka has a point I noticed some rusty bolts on the engine and on the engine itself on the drivers side I'd suggest looking at that closely
 
This is three years later. No rust
 

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The seller has provided a little more information upon my request:

- I have had the boat for 3 yrs now.
- Wife & I enjoyed it for a coupe of years but now no one is enjoying it and to busy too.
- Last year I put over 5k into the boat.
- The motor was verified by Marlon marine that it was rebuilt with 142/137 compression. Roughly 50 hrs ( previous owner did top end rebuild )
- 951cc single engine 120 hpr
- I had the bottom end jet pump rebuilt, new carbs, new fuel lines, new throttle cable, new electronic control fuse, village pump, new battery, new ignition coils, steering housing and complete cooling system cleaned out and de mineralized.
- Interior was professionally done in marine grade uv stable vinyl. Which was over 2000k
- Hull is in fantastic shape no cracks and super clean.
- Has a factory seadoo canvas cover.
- Newer ez- loader aluminium trailer with new tires and bearing buddies.
- All the boating necessities come with the boat- life jackets, fire extinguisher, anchors etc
- Holds 6 adults comfortably, 15ft long 5ft wide, does 55 mph top end


You can go to canadiantire to buy a compression tester. about $29.99
Then you can do it by yourself:
- Fuel switch off
- remove both spark plugs
- throttle wide open
- screw on the tester into one spark plug hole
- start the engine for 6 seconds.
- read the number on the tester.

Have $1000 ready for fixes. This boat is fun with some fixes. I spent about $600 on a top end rebuild, and about $300 on pump repair.

Go to the boat launch with the owner. Don't let him get the boat ready at the dock then you show up!
You need to witness the "cold start".
Boat should idle around 1300RPM to 1500RPM and very stable all the way through the no wake area.
The boat should go min. 30MPH if only two adults on board. should get on plane in a few seconds from idle speed to about 5500PRM.

And just run it on the plane for a few minutes, then idle it for a few minutes then on the plane for a few minutes. then shut off the engine, and wait for 5 to 10 minutes to let the engine soak the heat, then start. do a few minutes testing at different speed. and run it at 3000PRM for a couple of minutes too.

Thanks for laying it out for me like this, this is perfect. I agree that having an extra $1000 on hand is not a bad idea.

The owner has given me some information about the compression, do you still think I should buy the tool and do the test? He seems honest?

Also try and get as much history on the boat as possible such as what was done to it where it was done what type of gas and oil was run in the boat listen for backfires and oil leaks after the test drive

And shuka has a point I noticed some rusty bolts on the engine and on the engine itself on the drivers side I'd suggest looking at that closely

He has provided some more information which I have pasted above, the place where he had the boat serviced is about 1.5 hr away from me and Im sure I could go there and continue the servicing.

This is three years later. No rust

WOW that's clean! is this something that you maintain after every trip out, or should it just stay this clean?
 
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Spend the $29 from your $1000 bank. You will need it anyway a couple times every season to verify your top end is still good.
 
Take a better look at all those pics guys, that was a completely clapped out boat that someone did a sloppy restoration on. The seat recovers are all loose, the boat has been painted poorly by a hack and who knows what condition the power/driveline/pump is in.

That boat didn't come from a good home, and those are the ones that make you sorry you bought it every time. That's ok if you buy it cheap enough to throw $$$ at to make it right but there are better ones left out there still if your paying a tall price for it.
 
Take a better look at all those pics guys, that was a completely clapped out boat that someone did a sloppy restoration on. The seat recovers are all loose, the boat has been painted poorly by a hack and who knows what condition the power/driveline/pump is in.

That boat didn't come from a good home, and those are the ones that make you sorry you bought it every time. That's ok if you buy it cheap enough to throw $$$ at to make it right but there are better ones left out there still if your paying a tall price for it.

I tend to agree. By closer looking into the engine compartment, the condition is opposite than the description from the owner. The blue just bugs me :-D
 
Well I didn't want to mention anything as I'm in Quebec near Montreal but I do know of a cheap 97 challenger that comes with a trailer and cover I haven't seen the condition of the seats but know that the engine has been rebuild recently and the seller needs it gone I was told he was willing to let it go for really cheap so he doesn't have to pay for storage and winterisation.... I was gonna try and find the funds to buy it and flip it next summer but my boat used up all my spare coin.

I just don't know how much of a pain it would be to buy it here and plate it in Ontario that's why I haven't mentioned it

Oh and as far as the compression test results he provided IMO that's too big a difference between the cylinders also Waterluvr knows his boats so his opinion says a lot
 
Take a better look at all those pics guys, that was a completely clapped out boat that someone did a sloppy restoration on. The seat recovers are all loose, the boat has been painted poorly by a hack and who knows what condition the power/driveline/pump is in.

That boat didn't come from a good home, and those are the ones that make you sorry you bought it every time. That's ok if you buy it cheap enough to throw $$$ at to make it right but there are better ones left out there still if your paying a tall price for it.

So his other deal of trading for a car went south as the other car was in terrible shape. He is offering to trade for my car (value $5000 CAD) plus cash.

How much do you think this boat is worth? or how much cash should I be asking for?

Well I didn't want to mention anything as I'm in Quebec near Montreal but I do know of a cheap 97 challenger that comes with a trailer and cover I haven't seen the condition of the seats but know that the engine has been rebuild recently and the seller needs it gone I was told he was willing to let it go for really cheap so he doesn't have to pay for storage and winterisation.... I was gonna try and find the funds to buy it and flip it next summer but my boat used up all my spare coin.

I just don't know how much of a pain it would be to buy it here and plate it in Ontario that's why I haven't mentioned it

Oh and as far as the compression test results he provided IMO that's too big a difference between the cylinders also Waterluvr knows his boats so his opinion says a lot

Don't really know too much about these boats obviously, but would a 97 challenger be on the old side of things? Would it turn into a money pit in the upcoming years?
 
Well yes it's old but I learnt first hand that if you're gonna pay for the work to be done on the boat it's gonna get expensive fast no matter the age of the boat as far as which year/model would be the less problematic of seadoo boats I'm sure ppl here can point you in the right direction.

The best way to start would be by listing the things you want to be able to do with the boat and go from there

That's how I started looking I wanted a boat that could do most things like cruising, 'sport' cruising, fishing, pull tubes etc... The challenger was top pick for me as it has the variable trim system which helps out tons getting on plane when pulling ppl on a tube

The down side of this choice, for me, is it being a 2-stroke as I had very limited knowledge of carbs but thanks to the enormous knowledge grouped in this forum i am confident my lack of experience with carbs will not be hard to overcome

But again I still say that this late in the season 5000$ is on the expensive side IMO

GL!
 
Can I ask what kind of car are you trading? The boat kind of looks like a botched,kids project. I would rather put money into something original even if it's weathered. You have a better idea of what your getting into. Do you know if it was fresh or salt water use?
 
Well yes it's old but I learnt first hand that if you're gonna pay for the work to be done on the boat it's gonna get expensive fast no matter the age of the boat as far as which year/model would be the less problematic of seadoo boats I'm sure ppl here can point you in the right direction.

The best way to start would be by listing the things you want to be able to do with the boat and go from there

That's how I started looking I wanted a boat that could do most things like cruising, 'sport' cruising, fishing, pull tubes etc... The challenger was top pick for me as it has the variable trim system which helps out tons getting on plane when pulling ppl on a tube

The down side of this choice, for me, is it being a 2-stroke as I had very limited knowledge of carbs but thanks to the enormous knowledge grouped in this forum i am confident my lack of experience with carbs will not be hard to overcome

But again I still say that this late in the season 5000$ is on the expensive side IMO

GL!

Id like to just be able to pull a tube, wake board and essentially just cruise. I like that the back of the boat has a swimming platform. As I would most likely just anchor it close to a beach and swim when not cruising around/pulling people. I would also probably be fising a little from it, but seadoo boats don't really look like theyre made for that.

I'm just getting into boats so I have very limited knowledge and would be looking around here for help. Its a 2000 Speedster (or sportster im not too sure he put it up as a sportster but it looks like the speedsters in the pictures) so Im not sure about the type of engine. But as people have been saying the engine looks well worn.

If I could get him to trade the boat + $2000 for my car (worth $5000) would that be decent? Or should I ask for more? I don't mind waiting until next year or for the right deal but If I can get this at a great price why not.


Can I ask what kind of car are you trading? The boat kind of looks like a botched,kids project. I would rather put money into something original even if it's weathered. You have a better idea of what your getting into. Do you know if it was fresh or salt water use?

Im trading a 1984 Porsche 944 w/ 130 000 km's on it. Its worth about $5000. Im pretty sure the boats just fresh water as he lives in northern ontario.
 
You better have an extra $4-5000 on hand if you buy that boat, that's what it's going to cost you in repairs to the power and drivelines on something that old and abused. Read just the front page of the forum here, mostly new owners of old used boats that recently purchased someone else's problem.

On a clapped out piece of junk like the boat in OP's pics he posted it's not uncommon to take an inspection camera with a four foot neck and shove it into every nook and cranny you can gain access to from removing cupholders etc. and see lot's of stress cracks and separation on the upper and lower hull areas where they are (WHERE) riveted together. They are literally falling apart from years of abuse and neglect and there's no fixing that without exceeding the value of the boat on it's best day.

Do your financial health a favor and stop looking for the cheapest boats you can find, people that take care of their boats and don't beat them and spend the coin to maintain them as years come and go ask good money for their quality used boat and guess what? They are the real bargains in the long run, you generally won't have unexpected substantial repair costs and have to miss the majority of the boating season waiting for major repairs (if you can find anyone qualified to do the work).

You get what someone else paid for in routine and necessary maintenance all the years of previous ownership when you buy used, if you can't afford the purchase price of a good used boat you really can't afford to own and maintain one period, that's just how it comes out in the wash at the end of the day.
 
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