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97 SeaDoo XP no start

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Rledoux313

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Hey guys, new to the forum and I am hoping somebody can point me in the right direction. I bought a used 97 XP cheap, because they said it was seized. I put a battery in it and it turned over, so I began trying to get it started. It has spark, the carbs are clean, and wouldn’t fire when I sprayed starting fluid in the carbs. I did a compression check, 60 on one, 40 on the other. I pulled the top end apart and the pistons were shot. I got a top end, and put it all back together. Even afterward it still doesn’t start, or pop on starting fluid. When I stopped cranking, it would backfire, that was it. Out of the exhaust at first, then it did it out of the carb a couple times.

Today I made some block off plates to do a leakdown test. After a few minutes I decided it’s only another few minutes to pull the engine right out. I have it all closed up, but my carb plates are leaking. Do you guys think I could just put the carbs on with a piece of gasket paper behind them?

I also took the rave covers off and one is missing the spring. I read that can cause hard starting, but would it cause a no start all together?

Does anybody have any other advice?
 
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First never use starting fluid on a 2-stroke.

What is your compression now?
I would also check your reeds.
 
mikidymac said:
First never use starting fluid on a 2-stroke.

What is your compression now?
I would also check your reeds.
Click to expand...

The compression is now 130 on both, but the rings haven’t set yet either. From what I understand this engine has a rotary valve, not reeds.
 
My 2 cents FWIW.....low compression may not allow the engine to start......130 is considered on the LOW side, borderline capable. Don't use Starter fluid, use mixed gas.
Carbs may look clean....looking at carbs doesn't reveal anything.....ASSUME a full carb rebuild with ONLY genuine Mikuni parts is necessary.
If the TOP end was that far gone to begin with- 60/40 psi.....most likely there are issues in the bottom too.
I'd take it for granted that the whole engine will need a good going through to get her back into running shape....with attention to details, assembly, etc......good luck with her....THEY ARE LABORS OF LOVE and fickle mistresses.
 
Ok, pump the brakes.

First off...... Determine if you even have spark. I assume you do since the back fire.

Second, starting fluid a lil pre mix......Whatever. It's not like you using it every time to start it. We can move past that.

Third, carbs gotta be rebuilt, as well as the entire fuel system.

If it were me ( I have plenty of spare gaskets and o-rings) I would have pulled the rotary valve cover off already. You could remove the carbs and look thru the RV cover and see if the valve is rotating. If it's not it's game over. Does it look like the RV cover has ever been off? Check the paint on the screws that hold it on. Someone could have been in there and put the valve on wrong.

Let's investigate before we throw money at the wall.
 
Yes it has spark, and it also gets fuel to the carbs, as well as out of the return line. I pulled the carbs off and took a couple covers off, it looks pretty clean but I will get some kits. While I had them off I checked to rotary valve, it does spin and the gaps are 0.013 on the mag side 0.012 on the pto side.
 
You need a degree wheel to set the rotary valve timing,,(specs on this sight), ,any gaps are for determining the clearance of your rotary valve (on this sight),against the case.
 
POPPS said:
You need a degree wheel to set the rotary valve timing,,(specs on this sight), ,any gaps are for determining the clearance of your rotary valve (on this sight),against the case.
Click to expand...

I am not changing the timing of it, and it doesn’t look like the cover has been off either so I imagine it’s correct. I remember reading that the gap has to be 0.014 for whatever reason, so I provided the gap I measured so you all know it shouldn’t be an issue.
 
Your compression should be higher with a new top end than 130 but it should still start.

Remember only Genuine Mikuni parts for the carbs and follow the carb rebuild sticky.
 
Would you say carb rebuild should be the next step? Shouldn’t it have fired on starting fluid or mix gas into the intake? I tried both.
 
Rledoux313 said:
Does anybody have any other advice?
Click to expand...

Did you go through the fuel system? new fuel lines, new fuel selector, oring on the fuel strainer. If it's pulled air in the lines any where it can't get to the carbs and start. You really should rebuild the carbs, there's little filters in them. I wouldn't just pull them off and clean them, but go through with a fine tooth comb and rebuild them with OEM kits, ck the pop off, etc.

These skis are particular with the fuel system and carbs, they need to be perfect. Trust me on this, you'll make it up in reliability and no run issues later. I bought 2 crap skis, both had been sitting many yrs, when I did the rebuilds I spent some time being very through on the fuel system and carbs. Both skis fired up when the time came, and I'm 3 rd season on one and 2nd season on the other with no run or starting issues.
 
GGuillot said:
Did you go through the fuel system? new fuel lines, new fuel selector, oring on the fuel strainer. If it's pulled air in the lines any where it can't get to the carbs and start. You really should rebuild the carbs, there's little filters in them. I wouldn't just pull them off and clean them, but go through with a fine tooth comb and rebuild them with OEM kits, ck the pop off, etc.

These skis are particular with the fuel system and carbs, they need to be perfect. Trust me on this, you'll make it up in reliability and no run issues later. I bought 2 crap skis, both had been sitting many yrs, when I did the rebuilds I spent some time being very through on the fuel system and carbs. Both skis fired up when the time came, and I'm 3 rd season on one and 2nd season on the other with no run or starting issues.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice! I ordered carb kits yesterday, they will be here Friday. I will look for rebuild kit on the selector. Do I have to use any special fuel line? Or is normal black fuel line ok too?
 
Regular black line is fine, you can find fuel selectors everywhere, Amazon, eBay, etc
 
So I finally got the carbs rebuilt, all the fuel lines replaced, and got the fuel system completely squared away. Now the spark plugs get gas on them so I know it is getting gas into the cyclinder. The problem now is that the weak spark, is now no spark.
 
Start with the battery, do a load test on it, then check all your connections and grounds in the rear electrical box.,
 
The battery is good, brand new sealed AGM (I think that’s what it is?) battery. The only electrical box in the back I see is the VTS, is this the box you’re referring to?
 
Apologies, was I thinking of an 96Xp,,,on R's,97Xp,,,,,,the electrical box is in front, but the connections are similar.,
,",back to the old school,,,",,,I do not understand your pics of your coils regarding the issues of this 97Xp?...
What am I missing here?
 
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