96 XP NO SPARK (complicated case and I'm desperate)

[ZX654]

Greetings... I am in a pickle.

Backstory: I bought my '96 XP a couple of months ago in a non-running but good condition. I had to take the engine out and drain 2-stroke oil from the bottom of the case as it had been sitting for about 2 seasons, and oil leaked past the crank seals. Well, I put everything back together and found out I have no spark (this was about 3 months ago).

Diagnosing: Since then, I have gone through this ski time and time again, testing everything I possibly can using the service manual or online sources. I'll just go ahead and list everything I have done. Tested the stator and trigger coil, verified trigger coil bracket is intact, tested the dess post, tested the holder relay, tested the continuity of every related wire, tested the CDI (inconclusive), MPEM HAS TWO BEEPS, bought new battery and made sure it's above 11v when cranking, fuses checked, ignition coil replaced, rectifier replaced, cleaned all electrical connectors, mega cleaned the grounds going to the bottom of the ignition coil, changed the starter relay. I have tried many little tricks that I have found in the depths of other forums, but to no avail. Something to note is that the main battery ground has been relocated from the starter to the cylinder jug, I was told this was fine, but I know OEM is to the starter.

Current state: As of today, I have found that I have a signal (using a 12v test light) all the way to the ends of the ignition coil wires. I also have a pulsing signal from the white wire going to the coil. Plugs and plug boots have been removed, and I have tried to get a spark by putting the bare plug wire next to the negative battery terminal, but there is still nothing. In conclusion, I get a signal at the very end of the system, but still no spark. If anyone has had a similar issue, I would love to hear how you fixed it.

Thank you

 

[lavasioux]

Hi,

That's a bad coil. If the ECU is sending pulses, and the pulses are reaching the coil but no spark- Bad coil.

Good luck!

 

[artr]

While it could be a bad coil I would try a couple of things you have not tried. Use a jumper cable to connect a secondary ground from the battery negative to the cleaned up starter bolt where the ground would normally be. Also a 12V test light is not a good indicator of the high voltage required at the end of the plug wires to produce a spark. I would use an inline spark test light. Also try removing the plug end cap off the wire, cutting about 1/4" off the end of the wire and checking the resistance of the plug end cap (in the shop manual).

 

[tobytd]

You are correct the white wire going to the coil, will cause a test light to ‘flicker’ when cranking if everything downstream is correct.

 

[Grim]

When you replaced all the items did you buy OEM or aftermarket? Aftermarket parts are not very reliable. If you haven't already I would test your coil and any other parts you bought to verify they are within tolerances.

 

[ZX654]

Hi,

That's a bad coil. If the ECU is sending pulses, and the pulses are reaching the coil but no spark- Bad coil.

Good luck!

That's what I would initially think, but I get a "signal" at the end of the coil wire. Not to mention that this would be the 3rd ignition coil that has been tested.

 

[ZX654]

While it could be a bad coil I would try a couple of things you have not tried. Use a jumper cable to connect a secondary ground from the battery negative to the cleaned up starter bolt where the ground would normally be. Also a 12V test light is not a good indicator of the high voltage required at the end of the plug wires to produce a spark. I would use an inline spark test light. Also try removing the plug end cap off the wire, cutting about 1/4" off the end of the wire and checking the resistance of the plug end cap (in the shop manual).

Using a jumper cable is genius. I'm not sure how I did not think of that before. In the service manual, there is a dynamic test for the coil, but it requires a special Bombardier tester that only a dealer would have and probably doesn't exist anymore, which is why I opted for the test light. The plug end caps were about .5 ohms over spec. That's why I took the caps off, cut the wire back, and tried to get a spark straight from the wire. The spark should jump directly from the wire, right? The spark plug is just an insulator, so it doesn't actually produce the spark.

 

[ZX654]

You are correct the white wire going to the coil, will cause a test light to ‘flicker’ when cranking if everything downstream is correct.

It's not a very bright flicker, but it's definitely getting a signal. It could also be dim because it's a $6 test light from autozone.

 

[ZX654]

When you replaced all the items did you buy OEM or aftermarket? Aftermarket parts are not very reliable. If you haven't already I would test your coil and any other parts you bought to verify they are within tolerances.

The only thing I have not bought OEM is the ignition coil, I couldnt find a new OEM example online. However, this would be the 3rd ignition coil that has been tried. 1st was aftermarket, 2nd was OEM from a local guy, 3rd (current one) is a brand new aftermarket one. None of them pass the static test for ignition coils in the service manual, but I find that hard to believe. Could it be similar to CDI testing, where the values are way off but the unit is fine?