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96 HX issues

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duck

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I just picked up a 96 HX. The guy told me that it had sucked up some water and that it would need a total overhaul.

I put a socket on the mag end nut, and tried to turn the motor over, it was stuck tight, but not in the motor. The crand would wiggle nack and forth, and once the motor was out it spins free.

So i got a siezed bearing in the propulsion system.
No biggy I can fix that.

The problem is the motor WAS full of water too. I pulled the heads and found water in the cyclinders. Pulled the cylinders and found water in the crankcase. I dumped the water out, and filled the crankcase full of motor oil.

The water was clean, with no evidence of sludge or anything else. The motor oil I added has turned milky from the water in it. I'll drain it again tonight, and refill.

So it sits as of 15 minutes ago.

My question.

If I hone the cylinders, replace the rings, and reassemble the top end, What kind of a life can I expect from this thing. I got it for the wife, to be used 5-6 times a year for an easy cruise at the local lake. No racing, no high speed running, and freshwater.

The siezure in the back end is another problem I'll address when the time comes.
 
Easy cruising on an HX? HAH! As a 96 HX owner, I can attest to the fact that this is not a leisurely watercraft - and that is just sitting on the boat as you try to put in the lanyard. It is a very tippy Seadoo and difficult to balance at low speeds.

Back on topic: the lifetime on this salvage operation depends on so many factors, the crank and bearings, the overall pump/shaft health, and carbeuration.

I say if you are prone to doing a top end rebuild first, then go for it and see how it goes.

The worst that can happen is needing a longblock, which is where some people would prefer to start - but we all have different preferences and depths of wallets.
 
Yeah, iu've been explaining all that stuff to the OL, but you know how women are.

I'm hoping that the fact that the crankcase and crankshaft bearing were only exposed to air for a minute or so will help me out. No oxeygen, no corrosion.

I've had bike and boat motors run fine that were in worse shape.

Money at this point is hard to come by. I haven't worked in 2 months. The OL is paying my way right now, and i'm fixing whatever it is she wants fixed, built or rebuilt.

From what I've found, it looks like the guy negelcted the drive, and tried to get warranty by filling the motor with tap water.

The water in this thing was TOO clean. all our lakes are shallow and weedy. water in the best of them always ends up green nand slimy

.

I'm going to go with a set of rings and see what happens.
 
She's a runner. :hurray:

Fired the motor last nite, smokes to beat all heck, but thats from all the extra oil in the crankcase.

the only issue I've found is that the starter kicks a few times before it cranks over. Without the plugs in it, it cranks fine.

I suspect the extra oil in the system is causing it to hydro lock a bit, so i'm hoping that will improve as I burn the oil off.

It bogs when I crack the throttle, but once again, I suspect all the extra oil is throwing off the mixture.
 
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My biggest concern right now is getting it winterized and protected. Its getting below freezing at night here now.

Carbs will have to wait till spring.

I've been eyeballing a 650 polaris with a trailer thats up for sale locally. Might be the next project if I can get th price down.
 
That's great news you got it running!

As far as carbs - I'd take them off right now (well after you do the winterization fogging, antifreeze bit).

They're easy to remove since they are on the top side of the engine. Then you can take all the time you need to rebuild the carbs on the bench during the cold season.

If you have the grey fuel hoses, those should be changed out so you don't gum up the cleaned carbs. But I wouldn't do that until it warmed up - working with stiff hoses in the cold really sucks.

For the starting issue, I'd disconnected the starter and clean up the cable bolts. Also might want to take apart the MPEM (grey box at the front) and check for water intrusion there. The big relay in there may also need to have its terminals cleaned up as well.

And fresh carbs means more accurate fueling to the engine which will help it start better.
 
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