96 GTX Voltage Regulator problems

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I have a 96 GTX that has been running great until this weekend. Suddenly it would start fine but acted like it had a rev limiter at 3500 rpm. After some research decided to replace the voltage regulator. Local dealer did not have one so replaced it with a used one. Ran great for an hour then acted like it had a rev limited at 3500 rpm again. Unplugged the red wire on the voltage regulator and it runs great. Everything I have read points to a bad voltage regulator. I am not sure if the used one I got was bad or is there something on the ski that can be causing them to go bad? Any suggestions other than trying a new oem regulator? Does anyone know what is failing inside the regulators? It still seems to charge the battery. Would a noise filter help? Thanks!!
 
It absolutely sounds like the regulator. I know Matt B. Has had good luck with the eBay ones but make sure they ship from USA.
 
Ok so I think I got this fixed. Put 15 hours on the machine.

Ended up replacing the battery and the voltage regulator.

The factory one failed, replaced with a used one which failed in less than an hour, replaced with a new aftermarket regulator that failed immediately. Took the battery and had it tested. Showed a dead cell. Replaced battery and another aftermarket regulator and has worked flawless for 15 hours.

I am guessing the bad battery was taking out the regulators?
 
The previous posts seem to indicate that "Captainscall" discovered a bad cell in the battery. He also cycled through a fair number of voltage regulators.....but having the bad cell could have been the culprit and MAYBE not any of the voltage regulators.....the post was convoluted.

Do a simple test....connect a test meter to the battery terminals and watch the voltage with the ski running...should be greater than 13 volts. If the battery voltage is lower and / or jumping around could be a few things: (but it means the ski is not refreshing the battery with DC voltage)

Starting from the back of the ski to the front:

1) Check top connection to rear electric box next to battery, 6 pin connector. check for any minute signs of corrosion on pins and legs, clean it up if suspect.
2)Inside the box is the solenoid and the ignition coil, make sure all connections are clean and bright and tight
3) should have Red/purple wire though a 15 amp fuse from top connector to the RED solenoid post (this is the line where the ski gets the voltage back from the regulator to keep the battery refreshed and above 12.4+ volts. Pull fuse, check, re-seat or replace.
4) check continuity of Red/purple wire from 6 pin connector all the way to the front electric box in the nose of the ski to Red/purple coming out of the ECM...pull and re-seat all harness connections along the way if continuity is not there...clean connections if necessary/appropriate if continuity is restored just by reseating connections
5) Check 3 yellow wires (inside front electric box) from stator, should have .6 ohms across all connections 1-2, 1-3, 2-3 (or close, fairly equal)...this tells you stator is probably OK.
6) Check 5 amp and 15 amp fuses on the ECM, pull and re-seat if OK
7) with ski running....should have 13V + on the RED wire out of the volatge regulator feeding the Red/purple wire back to the solenoid (and battery)
8) Opps forgot....in rear box check wire connections to top of solenoid posts and check for good ground connections to the ignition coil

No cost to check any of this stuff...just patience.

I'm getting the distinct impression that the older skis suffer more electric and carb problems than major mechanical issues....that has been my personal experience so far.....the hardware seems solid....everything else is flaky (but age does take its toll).

Happy hunting...good luck.
 
The previous posts seem to indicate that "Captainscall" discovered a bad cell in the battery. He also cycled through a fair number of voltage regulators.....but having the bad cell could have been the culprit and MAYBE not any of the voltage regulators.....the post was convoluted.

Do a simple test....connect a test meter to the battery terminals and watch the voltage with the ski running...should be greater than 13 volts. If the battery voltage is lower and / or jumping around could be a few things: (but it means the ski is not refreshing the battery with DC voltage)

Starting from the back of the ski to the front:

1) Check top connection to rear electric box next to battery, 6 pin connector. check for any minute signs of corrosion on pins and legs, clean it up if suspect.
2)Inside the box is the solenoid and the ignition coil, make sure all connections are clean and bright and tight
3) should have Red/purple wire though a 15 amp fuse from top connector to the RED solenoid post (this is the line where the ski gets the voltage back from the regulator to keep the battery refreshed and above 12.4+ volts. Pull fuse, check, re-seat or replace.
4) check continuity of Red/purple wire from 6 pin connector all the way to the front electric box in the nose of the ski to Red/purple coming out of the ECM...pull and re-seat all harness connections along the way if continuity is not there...clean connections if necessary/appropriate if continuity is restored just by reseating connections
5) Check 3 yellow wires (inside front electric box) from stator, should have .6 ohms across all connections 1-2, 1-3, 2-3 (or close, fairly equal)...this tells you stator is probably OK.
6) Check 5 amp and 15 amp fuses on the ECM, pull and re-seat if OK
7) with ski running....should have 13V + on the RED wire out of the volatge regulator feeding the Red/purple wire back to the solenoid (and battery)
8) Opps forgot....in rear box check wire connections to top of solenoid posts and check for good ground connections to the ignition coil

No cost to check any of this stuff...just patience.

I'm getting the distinct impression that the older skis suffer more electric and carb problems than major mechanical issues....that has been my personal experience so far.....the hardware seems solid....everything else is flaky (but age does take its toll).

Happy hunting...good luck.

Thanks a lot, appreciate your time. The ski is on its third battery and the one and it is brand new. It’s on the second electrical box in the rear. The voltage from the red wire when the ski is running, is between 16 and 17 V DC, it’s also putting out up to 37 V AC. I actually put a switch at the glove box to disengage the voltage regulator so that we could ride it. I’ve been flipping the switch up to engage the voltage regulator whenever we’re idling through the 5 mile an hour zone. I was doing that until I realized that this Thing was putting out AC voltage.
 
The Stator puts out AC voltage into the rectifier, the rectifier/regulator converts that AC to DC voltage for the ski.

>>The voltage from the red wire when the ski is running, is between 16 and 17 V DC, it’s also putting out up to 37 V AC << Not sure I'm following you here.....a rectifier should only be putting out DC voltage on the RED wire out of the rectifier.

You could be getting 37V AC from the stator (3 yellow wires) into the rectifier though (but I don't know the exact spec personally of what a stator is supposed to be putting out)
 
I also found this from someone......can't remember from who, but good info to have/know:

Resistance to ground from any of the three stator leads (yellow wires) should be OL or open.
Resistance from one to the other should be around 0.6 ohms and close or all even.

Running at idle should yield around 25 vac at idle and up to 75 vac at 5000rpm, That's the point where the stator is pretty much saturated.

A fully charged battery is around 12.6vdc at rest.

Charging voltage can go up to 14.4vdc (this is output on the rectifier RED wire)

Any more and you could have a bad regulating part of the RR.

Charging a battery while connected can do this and you wouldn't know until running it.
 
If your battery isn't at least 12.5V to start with, it's defective or needs charging.

Thanks for the reply, but it’s definitely not a battery problem. I’ve had three different batteries in it , Same problem every time. The system is putting out 17 V so it’s not having a problem keeping battery voltage LOL. Problem is is that the MPEM Gets pissed off when it receives that kind of voltage, and the thing falls on its face, like it’s on the Revlimer the whole time. Disconnect the Rectifier, and it runs fine, but doesn’t charge the battery.
 
The system is putting out 17 V so it’s not having a problem keeping battery voltage

17V is way too much, normally these will regulate to about 13.8 on the battery. Thought I read the battery has a bad cell. The OEM regulators were manufactured by Tympanium.

Which regulator are you running, this 278000443? (ignore the 110VAC transformer, this diagram was adapted for a project).Tympanium Regulator 278000443 Center tapped.jpg
 
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The stator is connected to the regulator/rectifier. If it's not regulating, voltage control goes out the window. For instance if the transistor in the upper left corner was leaky, output voltage would be maximum.
 
cfe8b5a24e3ed42a4472639889639bf8.jpg
 
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