96' 787 OIL LINES

[chriscornatzer]

Ok, have a 96' GSX that has sat for 15 yrs with Amsoil (pumped out and replaced with Amsoil) in the crankcase but have it back to running but it is idling at 4000 and it is not circulating oil thru crankcase.
I am thinking that the idle is a air leak, but would that also stop the oil from circulating if it's a inter oil seal on the crank.
really need a bit of help on this one because I am out of my depth on this kinda stuff.

 

[Paul Bretz]

If your talking about the larger oil lines to engine it doesnt circulate. Its just a bath. Did you clean fuel system including carbs since it sat so long? If it has the grey tempo fuel lines replace them. Out of the water it should idle around 3000 rpms since no load from water on the pump

 

[chriscornatzer]

Hi Paul,
just being a bath is a load off my mind, well, as usual, all worked up over nothing.
As to fuel lines, it was the first thing I did after reading about them on this site and was so glad that I had looked around for info.
I did have a carb fitting or two snap off when I was trying to get the exhaust off because the carb bolts were frozen and had to remove the exhaust manifold to grind the head off of 2 carb bolts, all that so I could replace the lines on top of the carbs. While I had the carbs off I cleaned the carb filters and took them by a local small engine shop and had them look at them and they said inside of the carbs looked good to be as old as they are. But with that said the ski has only got a 178.4 HRS on it so I'm sure the low hrs helped a lot.
But all that work was really a good thing because as soon as I unbolted the exhaust and got the pipe out of the way I spotted a few acorn shells left by squirrels so I got a mini cam and looked around inside the motor and, oh yea, they were everywhere but was able to tape a smaller hose onto a shop vac and got it all, or so far so good.
As we speak I am starting a leak test to ensure I have a good seal on the motor before I tweak around on the carbs to try and adjust the 1100 or so RPM's out of the idle.
And yes there is a slight slack in the Throttle cable.
Is there anything you can think of that could be a pitfall at this point I may be overlooking?
And thanks for the info on the oil lines.

 

[mikidymac]

You need to rebuild the carbs with genuine Mikuni parts including the needle and seats. These rubber parts degrade over time and especially after sitting that long. It’s not just a look inside and spray some cleaner thing.

If it was mine I would also replace the on/off valve, fuel strainer and small 3/32” oil injection lines. These will ensure you aren’t chasing problems. Also 180 hours isn’t low as most are due for a top end around 200.
You should also clean the RAVE valves, change the pump oil and inspect the impeller and wear ring.

 

[chriscornatzer]

Carb rebuild;
The plan to start with is to get these running and then buy a set out of the Midwest that has that never been in salt water tagline with them and have my buddy at the small engine shop rebuild with OEM parts so it would be like a new set.

The on /off valve;
I have to ask why if it's working? I have seen where some were talking about them but never picked up on why it needs to be replaced.

fuel strainer;
on the list for this week to replace the whole thing due to my heavy hand and a brittle nipple.

oil injection lines;
good call on those and thanks for the size they are the only lines I have not replaced but will be easy while I have the carbs off for the leak test.

RAVE VALVES;
Have not touched them yet but once again the leak test will take care of that.

Pump oil;
all this is in good shape because I have a Scat-trac that I bought years ago that I changed to while I was doing all this other stuff and checked the wear ring and came in really good .010

OK on the 200 hr mark I should rebuild the top end? Is there a list somewhere that tells you at what HR to do what type work that needs to be done?

How long (HR's) will the pick up on the mag be good for.
I have read where some have failed but was hoping it was around the 500 HR mark to let me keep a couple of nickles for gas because this is the most nickel and dime project I have done.
Thanks in advance if you know of one and thanks for the heads up list to keep me headed in the right direction.

 

[mikidymac]

Don’t ride them with the old carbs as there is a good chance the engine will run lean and seize. The fuel selector has rubber inside that goes bad and sucks air again seizing the engine.
Leak test won’t tell you if the RAVE valves need to be cleaned. And if you haven’t done it they need to be cleaned.

No clue when or if the pickup bracket will fail. Some do some don’t.

You need to check compression to tell if you need a new top end.

150 psi is perfect 120 is time for a rebuild.

 

[Paul Bretz]

Good idea to just rebuild your carbs with mikuni kits including needle and seat from osd. And adjust carbs to factory settings unless you have flame arrestors or a pipe on it. No real reason to buy another set of carbs unless you like collecting parts like me. Ha. Maybe good idea to make sure check valves in fuel system and on top of oil tank are operating correctly since it sat so long.

 

[chriscornatzer]

Thanks mikidy for all the help and IF I am reading the leak test right it is telling me to check with the raves in for the boot and o-ring and to then remove them to complete the test (per 97' manual) mine is a 96' but to do get the complete testing protocol you have to look at the 97's.
So the RAVE would be coming out and cleaning would happen at that point.
Oh by the way ya'll I started the testing with the Roaty Valve Shaft test First because it is the on that tells you whether or not your inner crankcase seals are good or not and if mine were bad I would be sunk because that would be Large chunk of change to get back to a starting point.
BUT IT LOOKS LIKE THE ONE I WAS FEARING ARE IN GREAT SHAPE.
So now knowing that it is not internal to the crankcase I am golden because I can handle anything that it might be now.
Paul it's not that I would be collecting carbs it was so I could run what I have and as time and money would allow, have the new, "to me", carbs broke down and sent to a plating co. and have them do something to the body to prevent any corrosion because after the time I had getting these off I'll do whatever to never have to do that again.......well everything BUT stop riding in the surf and cruising the intercostal.

Fellow's I greatly appreciate all the help and the "heads up lists" are truly helpful and if you think of anything else shoot it to me.
But as for tonight I get to fix a washing machine that the daughter thought needed no heat during last weeks 8 days below freezing weather. shes not mine....really

 

[mikidymac]

Do not run the ski without new carb kits. You will seize the engine.

 

[chriscornatzer]

Thanks buddy, i do believe i have ample time before the weather breaks and the overtime to get it done.
Found my leak today, where i used a pry bar to get the exhaust manafold off of the galded bolts it had drove down far enough to chip the top of the rotary valve cover and also had cut the o-ring
It seams to never end.....but it will and I will be back on the water