shattered00
Active Member
@JeremyD615 Thank you for the follow up to my last post from June. I did see it and did try the recommendations but am still having the bogging issue and I just didn't have the spirit to respond at the time.
I am going to list out a quick summary of this ski and what I have done to try and address the problem.
First, the history: I bought two 96 XPs from an individual (4th owner) that had sat out in the elements at a marina for several years. I paid $700 for both including a double trailer. They were in rough shape, but I went for it as a side project not ever having worked on jet skis (or anything mechanical for that matter) ever. I wanted three running skis for myself and two cousins and didn't have the budget (and still don't) for new jet skis. I already had a 95 XP that I was planning on working on (which is now fixed and running great). Of the two 96s, I have one together that is bogging and the other is completely disassembled. I had the engines on all three rebuilt (entire engine/crankcase).
Second, the problem: The 96 XP bogs when any amount of throttle is given. If I go slowly, it will sometimes get up to maybe 10-15 mph but then taper off. If I depress the throttle to WOT, it usually ends up stopping the engine. The ski cranks easily in the water FYI. Below are some videos of the problem in case they help at all:
When out of the water, the ski cranks easily, and responds to the throttle appropriately. Video below.
Third, what I have attempted to do to fix it:
- Changed the fuel selector valve/switch ( I tried to find new OEM, but was unable to - I ordered one that said OEM but was not - stamping was from Taiwan in unmarked box).
- Replaced the water separator and ensured it had a new o-ring
- Replaced all grey fuel lines with USCG rated black fuel lines
- I have changed the inlet and outlet valves for the fuel tank (one of which goes to the outside of the ski to relieve pressure)
- Changed the rectifier
- New fuel is in the gas tank with slight amount of oil per the manual on new engine break-ins
- All clamps corresponding to fuel lines/carbs/water separator have been tightened
- Carbs have been cleaned out (compression shot through the nozzles to clear out any debris with carb cleaner being shot through after to make sure they were open)) and rebuilt with a genuine Mikuni kit along with Mikuni 80gram black spring and Mikuni 1.5 Needles(viton tip)/seats - I was not able to use the original spring in the carbs because someone before me had replaced it with things that weren't OEM so I just started from scratch with all OEM.
- Carbs have been set to factor specs (Low 1, High 0) - I have also tried low from 1 to 1.5 with no difference noticed)
- Cleaned Rave valves
- Changed spark plugs and gapped properly - NGK Br8es
- Even though it is a newly rebuilt engine with less than an hour on it (from me testing the ski), I have tried a compression test with the Autozone kit that I bought but I think the kit is defective and beyond the return window. It reads 115 on each cylinder and reads even less on the 95 which shows GPS speeds at 53mph and has zero issues with acceleration.
I am now out of options. It has been a three year journey to this point and, while I have not spent a ton of money, the time I have spent is beyond anything I had ever imagined I would spend. To add insult to injury, on the last lake test, when I closed the hood, the speed gauge (which never worked and now I know why) fell off, but somehow I got it before it fell into the water. I imagine I will need to seal that area off again at some point, but that is clearly the least of my problems.
Any advice or help that anyone can give will be much appreciated beyond words. If anyone is in the Fort Worth area and likes beer/liquor/soda/pizza/other food/$100 or so bucks and would be interested in helping me, I would gladly accept it. I had been determined not to pay a mechanic since I don't have much spare money, but I cannot sit by while another summer passes me up. I gave up last week and called more than 10 shops to see if anyone could help, and only one said they would, however, the wait time is likely for the rest of the summer if not the rest of the year. Thanks again for input as usual.
I am going to list out a quick summary of this ski and what I have done to try and address the problem.
First, the history: I bought two 96 XPs from an individual (4th owner) that had sat out in the elements at a marina for several years. I paid $700 for both including a double trailer. They were in rough shape, but I went for it as a side project not ever having worked on jet skis (or anything mechanical for that matter) ever. I wanted three running skis for myself and two cousins and didn't have the budget (and still don't) for new jet skis. I already had a 95 XP that I was planning on working on (which is now fixed and running great). Of the two 96s, I have one together that is bogging and the other is completely disassembled. I had the engines on all three rebuilt (entire engine/crankcase).
Second, the problem: The 96 XP bogs when any amount of throttle is given. If I go slowly, it will sometimes get up to maybe 10-15 mph but then taper off. If I depress the throttle to WOT, it usually ends up stopping the engine. The ski cranks easily in the water FYI. Below are some videos of the problem in case they help at all:
When out of the water, the ski cranks easily, and responds to the throttle appropriately. Video below.
Third, what I have attempted to do to fix it:
- Changed the fuel selector valve/switch ( I tried to find new OEM, but was unable to - I ordered one that said OEM but was not - stamping was from Taiwan in unmarked box).
- Replaced the water separator and ensured it had a new o-ring
- Replaced all grey fuel lines with USCG rated black fuel lines
- I have changed the inlet and outlet valves for the fuel tank (one of which goes to the outside of the ski to relieve pressure)
- Changed the rectifier
- New fuel is in the gas tank with slight amount of oil per the manual on new engine break-ins
- All clamps corresponding to fuel lines/carbs/water separator have been tightened
- Carbs have been cleaned out (compression shot through the nozzles to clear out any debris with carb cleaner being shot through after to make sure they were open)) and rebuilt with a genuine Mikuni kit along with Mikuni 80gram black spring and Mikuni 1.5 Needles(viton tip)/seats - I was not able to use the original spring in the carbs because someone before me had replaced it with things that weren't OEM so I just started from scratch with all OEM.
- Carbs have been set to factor specs (Low 1, High 0) - I have also tried low from 1 to 1.5 with no difference noticed)
- Cleaned Rave valves
- Changed spark plugs and gapped properly - NGK Br8es
- Even though it is a newly rebuilt engine with less than an hour on it (from me testing the ski), I have tried a compression test with the Autozone kit that I bought but I think the kit is defective and beyond the return window. It reads 115 on each cylinder and reads even less on the 95 which shows GPS speeds at 53mph and has zero issues with acceleration.
I am now out of options. It has been a three year journey to this point and, while I have not spent a ton of money, the time I have spent is beyond anything I had ever imagined I would spend. To add insult to injury, on the last lake test, when I closed the hood, the speed gauge (which never worked and now I know why) fell off, but somehow I got it before it fell into the water. I imagine I will need to seal that area off again at some point, but that is clearly the least of my problems.
Any advice or help that anyone can give will be much appreciated beyond words. If anyone is in the Fort Worth area and likes beer/liquor/soda/pizza/other food/$100 or so bucks and would be interested in helping me, I would gladly accept it. I had been determined not to pay a mechanic since I don't have much spare money, but I cannot sit by while another summer passes me up. I gave up last week and called more than 10 shops to see if anyone could help, and only one said they would, however, the wait time is likely for the rest of the summer if not the rest of the year. Thanks again for input as usual.
