2010 Challenger not starting

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Macker29

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Spent 2 full days on the lake tubing and joyriding. Occasionally stopped the boat to reload tubers and listen to music, etc... At one point, the boat simply would not re-start and ended up stranding us. The boat was cranking and acted like it was very close to starting several times. We eventually needed a tow and I was unable to re-start the boat for the rest of the day. Took the boat home (after a long and tenuous tow to the ramp). I waited a day and tried to start again in the garage. The boat still would not start but finally started showing me a code (p0231). Looked up the code and said something about the fuel pump. So, I wiggled the wiring to the fuel pump out of desperation and then tried to start... it started!! I assumed the issue was fuel pump wiring related, so I unplugged the wiring to fuel pump and it started showing me the exact same code (p0231). Plugged back in and the boat acted completely normal starting at every attempt

So my diagnosis was that the wiring to the pump was either corroded or had a bent prong creating a short?? Both batteries are brand new and I'm 100% certain that they are not an issue. Anyone else ever have this issue? Could it have been overheated? Could the fuel pump be bad?

Just as a side note: we did charge one of the batteries after day 1 and we left the battery hooked up to the boat. Wondering if the ECU was damaged. I think not because the boat ran for hours after that recharge.

Just curious what ya'll think.
 
I had similar issues with my fuel pump. Check your voltage at the connector with the key on. If you have anything less than battery voltage, you may want to check and clean your ground connections. I had to splice a ground right to the block to get my boat reliable.
 
JEasterhoff said:
I had similar issues with my fuel pump. Check your voltage at the connector with the key on. If you have anything less than battery voltage, you may want to check and clean your ground connections. I had to splice a ground right to the block to get my boat reliable.
Click to expand...
I will take a look at that tomorrow for sure. I agree that it sounds like a grounding issue. I did notice that one of the 4 connectors was bent and deformed. Straightened that out but I will definitely check the voltage at the connector.
 
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JEasterhoff said:
I had similar issues with my fuel pump. Check your voltage at the connector with the key on. If you have anything less than battery voltage, you may want to check and clean your ground connections. I had to splice a ground right to the block to get my boat reliable.
Click to expand...
I checked voltage on the connector for both the fuel pump and sensor... both checked out around 12-13 volts. At this point, I have to assume it is either the fuel pump or the fuel sensor. The word "sensor" has been flashing on my dash when I put the DESS on.
 
The word "sensor" is normal when you power up the boat out of the water. It's referring to the depth sounder not getting a reading.
 
gazzaskirepair said:
Change the pump or remove module and bench check , but fuel pump failures are common
Click to expand...
Called the shop to take a look at the boat. Just want them to tell me if the fuel pump and/or sensor is bad. I can hear it humming when I put on the key. The puzzling thing is that now the boat starts every time. I have unhooked the connector to the fuel pump and senor several times and reconnected. I have replaced nearly every fuse that involves the fuel system. The boat is acting like nothing ever happened.

However, I don't want this to happen again. So I am taking your advice to have the fuel pump and wiring looked at by the shop.
 
Sounds like a intermittent pump or bad contacts on the fuel pump connector

they should do a fuel pump pressure check

they will ask you to change complete model which is not cheap
 
gazzaskirepair said:
Sounds like a intermittent pump or bad contacts on the fuel pump connector

they should do a fuel pump pressure check

they will ask you to change complete model which is not cheap
Click to expand...
Yeah I was thinking that might be the case. It is the only way for them to eliminate the whole problem. Wondering if I could get one off ebay (brand new oem) and install myself. Replacing the entire module actually doesn't look that hard.
 
Update: I replaced the fuel pump module (with a new oem that I got for a good price). Boat ran great the first day. Second day, the boat was back to not starting and giving me the P0231 code. The boat was turning over, but not getting fuel (fuel pump was not operating as I could not hear it priming). Checked the meter and the module is getting power. So I am almost 100% certain it is a ground issue either going to the ECM or the engine block ground (mechanics could you help me on that). It could also be the ECM itself as a Check Engine light comes on the dash as well from time to time during this problem.

Side note: I also replaced the starter solenoid, which did seem to seem to be weak. I knew it was most likely not the major problem, but i thought I'd change it anyway. Starter doesn't sound bad, so I do not believe it is the starter (I will replace this winter just for preventative maintenance purposes).

Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
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The ground wires are in the engine block front side
Look down to the the right of oil filler cap normally around 5 grounds
Main battery ground under the exhaust manifold number 17 mm spanner

when it does it again confirm if there is spark at the spark plugs just a thought for more in depth trouble shooting
Good luck
 
gazzaskirepair said:
The ground wires are in the engine block front side
Look down to the the right of oil filler cap normally around 5 grounds
Main battery ground under the exhaust manifold number 17 mm spanner

when it does it again confirm if there is spark at the spark plugs just a thought for more in depth trouble shooting
Good luck
Click to expand...
Thank you... I will inspect all of those ground wires in front of the engine block and the one under the exhaust manifold....and the spark.

Does the ground from the Fuel Pump run into the ECM/ECU or the engine block?
 
JEasterhoff said:
I had similar issues with my fuel pump. Check your voltage at the connector with the key on. If you have anything less than battery voltage, you may want to check and clean your ground connections. I had to splice a ground right to the block to get my boat reliable.
Click to expand...
Did you splice the wire going from the pump to the ECM/ECU and then ground it directly to the engine block? Basically snipped the wire in half and routed the ground from the fuel pump connector to the engine block? If so did you just leave the rest of the wire going to the ECM/ECU dead? (was wondering how the control box would handle that).

Also, did this turn out to be a permanent fix?
 
The ECU controls the grounds for the components
By running a new ground to the fuel pump would run the pump continuously when key is on post
It’s a good idea for trouble shooting

could run your battery flat if key left on post :(
 
gazzaskirepair said:
The ECU controls the grounds for the components
By running a new ground to the fuel pump would run the pump continuously when key is on post
It’s a good idea for trouble shooting

could run your battery flat if key left on post :(
Click to expand...
Update: I spliced the ground wire going from fuel pump to ecu and grounded on the engine block. Boat fired up immediately. Problem found. Only issue is the check engine light and beep come on.

Question #1: How long can this set-up work? Is it temporary? The fuel pump ran continuously as you stated.
Question #2: How do I get the check engine light and beep to stop?
Question #3: Does this mean the ecu is bad, or simply the ground wire going into the ecu is bad?

Any input is greatly appreciated. Thank you!!!
 
Check continuity beteeen ECU connector and grounds and between ECU connectors and pump
If they good then the ECU isn’t supplying the ground to bring pump on
Double check the fuse contacts and not corroded giving a intermittent positive too
 
Update: Took the boat to Sea-Doo dealer. He stated that he has seen this issue before (ground wire from fuel pump to ECU). In his opinion, he believed it was best to replace the ECU. He stated, that once you have a problem with an ECU, you are only going to have more problems with it. I trust the guy completely, so I believe it is the right move, even though it is going to be expensive.

So we are replacing ECU. I will report back once things are repaired.
 
Have you done a load test on to a fully charged battery? Have you checked all connections,,,at the battery?.there are lots of surprises there. ,,,,It all starts at the battery!
 
POPPS said:
Have you done a load test on to a fully charged battery? Have you checked all connections,,,at the battery?.there are lots of surprises there. ,,,,It all starts at the battery!
Click to expand...
Yes...and I agree, it all starts at the battery. We started at the battery and worked our way back. I am 100% certain it is the ground wire going from fuel pump to ecu. Since the wire looks and tested good, I am of the opinion that it has to be the ecu. Mechanic is going to change ground wire first to see if that changes anything, but very likely its going to be an ecu change.

Again, it should be noted that we charged our battery and did not disconnect the battery wires to the boat (ugh I regret that). This entire problem started the day after. I wonder if that did some damage to the ecu.
 
Update:
1. Replaced the fuel pump module
2. Replaced the starter solenoid
3. Replaced the ECU
4. Replaced the Fuel pump connector (coming from wiring harness into the fuel pump)
5. Replaced all fuses related and unrelated

Funny thing is it ended up not being any of these. It was the wiring connector going into the ECU from the fuel pump via the wiring harness. It either had corrosion or was just shot after 10 years. I don't regret replacing all of these parts as it only gives me more peace of mind in the future. But I find it comical that I traced it from point A to point Z, to find that the problem was Y. Par for the course in 2020.
 
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