Drop her in the water, starts right up every time.
Ride around hard, no problems at all.
Tow tube then wake boarder and then knee boarder, no issues at all.
Drop anchor or tie up to buoy and stop engine for 20 minutes or more to swim, eat, play in water, and it will turn over and over and over. After 5 minutes of turning over (I let it turn over about 4-5 times then take a 3-5 second break then try again and repeat) I can hear the engine turning over changes sound and starts to cough a bit. After a few more attempts the cough turns into a semi-start which after two attempts turns into a start and running engine.
Then no problem as long as I keep her running. If I stop for 10-20 -30+ minutes the problem returns.
This has been this way since last season. At the start of last season, I pulled the plugs and noticed plug 3 had alot of moisture on it. I smelled it and it very LITTLE smelled of gas. I believe this was mostly water.
I read of two other users online with this rotax engine say it was the exhaust manifold which is jacketed and corroded and leaked. Perhaps while running the engine exhaust would push any water out into the J pipe and water box but when the engine stopped that residual water in the exhaust manifold would leak into the exhaust port of the engine and find its way to the cylinder and retard or put out the spark on startup?
Another person reported the same issue with a leaky suparcharger cooler.
Question #1: How do I test the exhaust manifold or the supercharger cooler for leaks? Each of these units is around $400 new. Used they run around $100 (although I would not get used since you might end up with the problem within a season or two)
Question #2: If I need to change these, what upgrades are available such as a stainless exhaust manifold (I saw a gnarly mat gold painted custom manifold on a thread around here) or an aluminum intake with modified cooler?
If I end up having to change these two items, I might as well spend a bit more and get something better (better = more power, better design, looks sick).
OK, so here is the natural progression of the exhaust question, why do I need to have it jacketed and run into a J pipe then into a water box? Why can't I just pipe it direct to the outside or under the water? Must it be jacketed? I think I know why but am wondering if there is a way to clean up the pathway rather than going through all that plumbing.
Thank you for any advice/input.
One last question, over Labor Day weekend I took more people on the boat than ever and noticed a huge lag in power. It was the first time I regretted not working harder to make more money to afford a dual engine jetboat. Are there upgrades worth implementing to the 215hp rotax that would be significant of an increase to notice, or should I work harder, sell my boat and get a dual engine jetboat? Thanks!
Ride around hard, no problems at all.
Tow tube then wake boarder and then knee boarder, no issues at all.
Drop anchor or tie up to buoy and stop engine for 20 minutes or more to swim, eat, play in water, and it will turn over and over and over. After 5 minutes of turning over (I let it turn over about 4-5 times then take a 3-5 second break then try again and repeat) I can hear the engine turning over changes sound and starts to cough a bit. After a few more attempts the cough turns into a semi-start which after two attempts turns into a start and running engine.
Then no problem as long as I keep her running. If I stop for 10-20 -30+ minutes the problem returns.
This has been this way since last season. At the start of last season, I pulled the plugs and noticed plug 3 had alot of moisture on it. I smelled it and it very LITTLE smelled of gas. I believe this was mostly water.
I read of two other users online with this rotax engine say it was the exhaust manifold which is jacketed and corroded and leaked. Perhaps while running the engine exhaust would push any water out into the J pipe and water box but when the engine stopped that residual water in the exhaust manifold would leak into the exhaust port of the engine and find its way to the cylinder and retard or put out the spark on startup?
Another person reported the same issue with a leaky suparcharger cooler.
Question #1: How do I test the exhaust manifold or the supercharger cooler for leaks? Each of these units is around $400 new. Used they run around $100 (although I would not get used since you might end up with the problem within a season or two)
Question #2: If I need to change these, what upgrades are available such as a stainless exhaust manifold (I saw a gnarly mat gold painted custom manifold on a thread around here) or an aluminum intake with modified cooler?
If I end up having to change these two items, I might as well spend a bit more and get something better (better = more power, better design, looks sick).
OK, so here is the natural progression of the exhaust question, why do I need to have it jacketed and run into a J pipe then into a water box? Why can't I just pipe it direct to the outside or under the water? Must it be jacketed? I think I know why but am wondering if there is a way to clean up the pathway rather than going through all that plumbing.
Thank you for any advice/input.
One last question, over Labor Day weekend I took more people on the boat than ever and noticed a huge lag in power. It was the first time I regretted not working harder to make more money to afford a dual engine jetboat. Are there upgrades worth implementing to the 215hp rotax that would be significant of an increase to notice, or should I work harder, sell my boat and get a dual engine jetboat? Thanks!
