2003 4-tec Sportster water in oil

[ShipFaced]

Hello, I bought a used boat a few weeks ago. At the time oil was not milky. I ran it a few times and had to add oil and i was also getting some oil in the engine bay. Last week i left the boat in the water and had water leak upto the bottom of the motor. ( Bilge is broken evidently ) I took it for a ride and then checked the oil and it's now milky.

I have checked the oil cooler, water pump seal and removed the head. I have no signs of leaks from the cooling system.

Can a PTO seal if worn allow water to enter into the crank case? is this a common as i cant find info in the forum on it?

also with motor cold compression was 70 , 70 , 90psi. Guessing while its this far apart i should put new rings in?

 

[MacSeaDoo]

If the PTO seal was bad, you would have oil in your bilge.

It would be very unlikely for water to be in the oil from the hull as the oil system and cooling systems is pressurized and you would have coolant or oil leaving not water coming in.

My thoughts:

If your oil is milky:

1.. The boat was previously sunk, and someone sucked out as much as they could and changed the oil. You can only change about 80% of the oil as the rest is through the system. (Basically a dry sump)
2.. It is coolant in the oil. You should see this in the loss of coolant from the bottle.

 

[Mister Magoo]

You could also get water into the engine by improperly running it on the hose.
If those compression readings are correct it might not be rings but a problem in the head, which could explain the water in the oil.

 

[ShipFaced]

You could also get water into the engine by improperly running it on the hose.
If those compression readings are correct it might not be rings but a problem in the head, which could explain the water in the oil.

I dont show any signs of head leaking into cylinders or at least anything obvious.

 

[ShipFaced]

If the PTO seal was bad, you would have oil in your bilge.

It would be very unlikely for water to be in the oil from the hull as the oil system and cooling systems is pressurized and you would have coolant or oil leaving not water coming in.

My thoughts:

If your oil is milky:

1.. The boat was previously sunk, and someone sucked out as much as they could and changed the oil. You can only change about 80% of the oil as the rest is through the system. (Basically a dry sump)
2.. It is coolant in the oil. You should see this in the loss of coolant from the bottle.

After pulling engine I found the issue. Drain plug was holding on by a few threads only. Guessing high water in bilge soaked into motor while sitting for the week.

 

[MacSeaDoo]

I didn't know they had a drain plug...

 

[jakempc3000]

Betting the boat sank / partially sank or was flooded with the water hose. The block drain was removed to drain the engine and never retightened. The intake and intake lines where never pulled and drained or partially cleared. The intake manifold will hold a lot of water, check that.
Couple of oil changes will clear the oil up.
If it is still slighlty milky after a few oil changes / leave the dipstick out and oil fill cap off. The engine will steam the remaining moisture from the engine while under way.
Also spin the engine over by hand while out and make sure all 3 pistons are moving and reach TDC. If the engine sucks enough water in, it will bend a rod / or snap it.

 

[nesnfred]

Hello, I bought a used boat a few weeks ago. At the time oil was not milky. I ran it a few times and had to add oil and i was also getting some oil in the engine bay. Last week i left the boat in the water and had water leak upto the bottom of the motor. ( Bilge is broken evidently ) I took it for a ride and then checked the oil and it's now milky.

I have checked the oil cooler, water pump seal and removed the head. I have no signs of leaks from the cooling system.

Can a PTO seal if worn allow water to enter into the crank case? is this a common as i cant find info in the forum on it?

also with motor cold compression was 70 , 70 , 90psi. Guessing while its this far apart i should put new rings in?

There are definitely some people on here who will be able to offer better advice than me. One thing to check is the crank position sensor. If your engine is like mine, I have a 2008 Challenger Wake 230, and had to replace both of mine (two engines). It is on the transom side, bottom right, from the view of being in the boat looking down at the engine. There is a rubber gasket on that sensor. If that has failed, it will leak oil into the bilge and if water was setting in there, it could have gotten into the engine.

Sounds like too you have some leaks to find. I had this same problem and found that several of the fittings under the boat that bolt up through the bottom of the boat were leaking. I removed all the old marine sealant that covered those through bolts, cleaned and sanded the surface surrounding it and applied new sealant. No more leaks…also check the rivets in your rub rail that are at the waterline. I had to replace a few of those two.

Replace that bilge pump or make sure the old owner did not disconnect the direct power lead that keeps it functioning when boat is off.

 

[ShipFaced]

I didn't know they had a drain plug...

They have 2 of them. but you have to pull the motor to utilize them.

 

[nesnfred]

They have 2 of them. but you have to pull the motor to utilize them.

If you are referring to the crank shaft position sensor, I replaced mine without removing the motor. I have two 215hp rotax engines, replaced on each.

 

[MacSeaDoo]

I think he meant 2 drain plugs.