2002 Sea Doo Utopia 205 - Performance Problems Many Questions New Owner - Help

[Agugliel]

This past season I had the opportunity to purchase from a family member who passed away a 2002 Sea Doo Utopia 205 which has the mercury optimax 250 3.0L V6 M2. Took the boat out for the first time ever and it ran great but smelled like it was running rich (by the exhaust fumes) but not so bad. We did encounter the four beeps (checked oil it was perfect) and just paid no bother. Second time I took the boat out ran well for 15 minutes and then when I gave it WOT it would not perform and we could only get up to 1500 rpms and go about 5 to 7 miles per hour. Still heard the four beeps and then took back to the trailer and home. Did some research and removed the fuel filter and found some water in the fuel filter. Replaced the filter and sensor tonight and finally started it up (which starts up perfectly no issues at all and idles at about 1000 rpm) and when I did the WOT it only went to 2000 - 2500 rpms. I had the hose hooked up and everything. The four beeps came back and I assume I need a new canister.

So my questions are

What could be my potential problems which I am not getting WOT then I put down the throttle? Most I get is between 2000 to 2500 (which seems better after I did the fuel filter because I was only getting about 1500RPM)?

Can you get WOT out of the water (sounds like a stupid question but I have to ask. I have extensive auto mechanic skills and ATV dirt bike skills as well)

Can you run and test the boat out of the water without taking it in the water to test it?

After the fuel filter the fumes were very very strong where it was burning your eyes if you were five to ten feet behind the boat.

Could it be the TPS or one of the temp sensors (where are they located and how many does the motor have?)?

Interesting point after running for three mins with the hose connected and out of the water it was giving a solid beep (overheating but why it had the hose hooked up)?

Please all help is appreciated we want to bring the boat to the shore in three weeks and I need to get it running.

 

[dblackstone]

Small oil tank reservoir has a sensor in it, if it is low on oil it gives the 4 beep warning. If it goes bad (common) it goes off and computer puts it in limp mode.

That 4beep warning means signals for both potential fuel issue or oil issue.

 

[Agugliel]

Yes I think that is beep problem I am encountering which I will replace but my problem now I have is wot I can only get 2000 - 2500?

 

[Tim75]

If you have a properly running engine, and hit wot on a hose, you will likely destroy the engine. Why risk it?

I never rev over 2k on hose.

Have you checked your trigger base? Several recent threads here.

 

[Agugliel]

No I am asking because I want to test the boat I am having an issue which is why I ask before doing anything.

So he purpose of the hose when running the motor besides flushing is for what? Just to run the boat and how long can you run with the hose in the boat?

Trigger base do a search on that topic?

 

[Tim75]

This past season I had the opportunity to purchase from a family member who passed away a 2002 Sea Doo Utopia 205 which has the mercury optimax 250 3.0L V6 M2. Took the boat out for the first time ever and it ran great but smelled like it was running rich (by the exhaust fumes) but not so bad. We did encounter the four beeps (checked oil it was perfect) and just paid no bother. Second time I took the boat out ran well for 15 minutes and then when I gave it WOT it would not perform and we could only get up to 1500 rpms and go about 5 to 7 miles per hour. Still heard the four beeps and then took back to the trailer and home. Did some research and removed the fuel filter and found some water in the fuel filter. Replaced the filter and sensor tonight and finally started it up (which starts up perfectly no issues at all and idles at about 1000 rpm) and when I did the WOT it only went to 2000 - 2500 rpms. I had the hose hooked up and everything. The four beeps came back and I assume I need a new canister.

So my questions are

What could be my potential problems which I am not getting WOT then I put down the throttle? Most I get is between 2000 to 2500 (which seems better after I did the fuel filter because I was only getting about 1500RPM)?

Can you get WOT out of the water (sounds like a stupid question but I have to ask. I have extensive auto mechanic skills and ATV dirt bike skills as well)

Can you run and test the boat out of the water without taking it in the water to test it?

After the fuel filter the fumes were very very strong where it was burning your eyes if you were five to ten feet behind the boat.

Could it be the TPS or one of the temp sensors (where are they located and how many does the motor have?)?

Interesting point after running for three mins with the hose connected and out of the water it was giving a solid beep (overheating but why it had the hose hooked up)?

Please all help is appreciated we want to bring the boat to the shore in three weeks and I need to get it running.

Moo

No I am asking because I want to test the boat I am having an issue which is why I ask before doing anything.

So he purpose of the hose when running the motor besides flushing is for what? Just to run the boat and how long can you run with the hose in the boat?

Trigger base do a search on that topic?

Search here for trigger base. You can check Ebay for mercury trigger base to see one. Yes, running on hose is primarily for flushing. Testing above 2k rpm should be done in the water to put a load on the engine.

 

[Agugliel]

What is the purpose of the trigger base and is this located within the shifter? Does it control the throttle response?

What is the rpm at idle on our boats?

 

[Tim75]

The trigger base is analogous to a crank position sensor in a car.
No, it not even close to the shifter. It is under the flywheel. But the testing is from the plug on top of the engine aft of the flywheel.

Idle spec 1100 rpm, I prefer about 1250 rpm.

 

[Agugliel]

Ok thank you my rpms seem fine they are steady at 1100 rpm.

Second so what I think happened was after driving for fifteen mins I had no more wot and I only can go at idle to 1500 rpm to get back to the dock. I am assuming the engine triggered into a safety mod and would not let me throttle the boat. The boat starts and runs great just that I had that one issue and I have not taken out on the water yet. I opened up the throttle body and look T what I found. My throttle body was so filthy never seen anything like it and the plugs are a little dirty let me know your thoughts.

Remember this was a boat I inherited from
A family member so I am new to this marine industry.

 

[Tim75]

Wow! That engine looks like it spent its life in a coal mine.

With all that crud built up on the intake, what does the combustion chamber look like? Looks like you should have a compression test. All plugs out, at wot. To a precision high-speed machine (engine), anything that it ingests that is not fuel/oil or air, is detrimental to the engine.

Obvious question- Where did that crud come from? Do what it takes so it won't happen again.

Don't use carb cleaner here. That just washes that crud INTO the engine.

 

[Agugliel]

Compression test was good it was in factory range when I checked. Here is the air filter or some sort of cartridge filter

Cleaned the throttle body correctly and it is back on.

 

[MKITGO2]

Small oil tank reservoir has a sensor in it, if it is low on oil it gives the 4 beep warning. If it goes bad (common) it goes off and computer puts it in limp mode.

That 4beep warning means signals for both potential fuel issue or oil issue.

On the Oil Tank I strongly suggest doing an Ohm test on the sensor and move the float manually, be sure that you have a bad sensor.

I was about to do this same replacement, I had tested the float in my tank and it seemed to be bad, it would trigger after only a short drop of the float.

But when I tested the brand new tank against the old one.. they behaved identically. I learned that the 'trigger' point for the sensor is very short. Basically the sensor will trigger the alarm once the tank gets about a 1/4 low, maybe a 1/3 of the tank.. but its very little travel In my opinion which causes the sensor to open. Its not even the full travel of the float. Test it, you'll see what I mean.

In the end, it was that my Main Oil tank, beside the battery was lower than I thought and wasn't feeding... it was dirty and gungy and looked like a 1/2 full tank when in reality it was almost empty ... but anytime I looked at it I thought I was all good.

 

[MKITGO2]

Wow! That engine looks like it spent its life in a coal mine...
Obvious question- Where did that crud come from? Do what it takes so it won't happen again.
.

Oh God.. I gotta go check my TB and Intakes.

When I got mine last year, the insulation under the engine enclosure had been degrading, and I had oily foam flakes/dust all over... and it would settle and cake on, looking a lot like what is in your TB there.

 

[Agugliel]

Thank you for your advise I am going to do exactly what you send I did check for conductivity and had none with the multi meter which I did order a new tank. Thank you for your additional test. I am going to jump the wires to see if that clears the code and take it for a ride.

Battery voltage is 12.9 and charge is in the 14.0 ranges. So we are good there. Glad this did happen was able to do some service work (fuel filters and sensors, throttle body cleaning, plugs and the air filter (yes the 250 has an air filter).

The boat I took out for the first time for the day was giving four beeps I ignored because the oil was fine figuring the sensor. The second time I took it out that is when I was only able to go about 5 out at full throttle and it went into limp mode.

 

[Agugliel]

I am missing one side on the insulation which I have to replace. So that insulation got into the TB or you are just referring to as similar around your engine like my throttle body?

Last only my throttle body was dirty and it was covering only a small area of the spacing. Inside was spotless. Looks like it has been on there for a while because of the oxidization on the aluminum and brass areas of the throttle body and plate. Also my air filter is not the cleanest.

 

[MKITGO2]

I am missing one side on the insulation which I have to replace. So that insulation got into the TB or you are just referring to as similar around your engine like my throttle body?

It was just around my engine compartment. Im not sure about my TB.. Gonna have to double check next weekend when I get back to her.

 

[Agugliel]

Did your boat go into limp mode with the oil tank and sensor issue?

 

[Agugliel]

Thank you everyone I temporarily bypassed the sensor by jumping the wires and it ran fantastic on the water (made sure the oil was topped of). Ran the boat a good two hours and just ran fantastic. I should have the new canister with float on Tuesday and I will install along with some other tune up items. Thanks for all your assistance.

 

[dblackstone]

Good to hear.

 

[Pdub]

What and how did you jump the wires...i have the same issue with a 240 lol and my insulation was crumbly and oily