2002 RX DI Not Quite Right

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.

etemplet

Premium Member
Premium Member
I'm finishing up on the restoration and engine break-in. I finally gave it full throttle and it was impressive. It ran pretty good but slowed and after a about 10 seconds shut down like it pulled the Key. Restarted twice and rode at a slower speed for a bit. I got a big flat spot between 4-5K Rpm right where the raves need to be opening. The ski either launches or sputters and the engine does not like to run in that range. I rode for about a hour. Ski is very rideable if you stay out of that range. Starts and idles fine. This thing is ferocious !!! Wow !!!

Input from the DI guys is appreciated. I do have a Candoo system but I don't generally solve problems with it. Good old fashioned troubleshooting gets it done.

I suspect a leak or something amiss in the rave system. I'm now remembering that I installed a Black Rave Valve Solenoid that I had as a spare. I stole the green Rave Solenoid off this ski a few months ago but the black one looks and connects the same There are a few hoses on the rave system I need to look at and understand, mainly the one that goes to the throttle bodies but I'll check the whole system.

I'm gonna replace the Rectifier if I have one just in case. A previous DI was acting funny and someone here suggested I replace the rectifier. That replacement worked like a charm.

I'm going to check the throttle position sensors but I don't think I'll find an issue there.
Fuel and Air injectors were sent to thefuelinjectorman.com for cleaning. Again... input is appreciated.


Jet Ski Canal 6-7-22 Sissy Gene (1).JPEG
 
Last edited:
I think this deserves its own remark. Is the Black Rave solenoid Different than the green one? They look, mount, and connect exactly the same as the green ones.
 
Thanks for the suggestion and link. I'll pay attention to that when I shut down. I don't hear very well ha ha.

Just as an aside on the rave valves, I rode a RFI I was working on a while back and didn't realize the rave solenoid was disconnected. The ski ran pretty good and when I got home I saw it was disconnected. So these skis will open the raves by pressure even if the solenoid isn't working. It did transition better with the solenoid connected. :D
 
I put a green rave solenoid in place of the black one and rechecked the raves. I'll give that a shot on the water tomorrow.
 
Stop rubbing it in @etemplet, you know we don’t have any water to ride here [emoji16]
Sometimes we don't know how good we got it. This is our little known quiet canal where we like to ride. My wife is on a 2003 GTI RFI. Man that thing launched pretty good. Headed back to tomorrow, nothing went in the water today.


Jet Ski Canal 6-7-22 Sissy Gene (1).JPG


Jet Ski Canal 6-7-22 Sissy Gene (3).JPEG
 
I'm finishing up on the restoration and engine break-in. I finally gave it full throttle and it was impressive. It ran pretty good but slowed and after a about 10 seconds shut down like it pulled the Key. Restarted twice and rode at a slower speed for a bit. I got a big flat spot between 4-5K Rpm right where the raves need to be opening. The ski either launches or sputters and the engine does not like to run in that range. I rode for about a hour. Ski is very rideable if you stay out of that range. Starts and idles fine. This thing is ferocious !!! Wow !!!

Input from the DI guys is appreciated. I do have a Candoo system but I don't generally solve problems with it. Good old fashioned troubleshooting gets it done.

I suspect a leak or something amiss in the rave system. I'm now remembering that I installed a Black Rave Valve Solenoid that I had as a spare. I stole the green Rave Solenoid off this ski a few months ago but the black one looks and connects the same There are a few hoses on the rave system I need to look at and understand, mainly the one that goes to the throttle bodies but I'll check the whole system.

I'm gonna replace the Rectifier if I have one just in case. A previous DI was acting funny and someone here suggested I replace the rectifier. That replacement worked like a charm.

I'm going to check the throttle position sensors but I don't think I'll find an issue there.
Fuel and Air injectors were sent to thefuelinjectorman.com for cleaning. Again... input is appreciated.


View attachment 58886
Would love to help but I'm in the process of depotting my mpem for the dreaded diode short problem that the RXDI is known for
 
Would love to help but I'm in the process of depotting my mpem for the dreaded diode short problem that the RXDI is known for
Post pictures. I never heard of the diode short. I'd like to know the best way to depot. I did it once and it wasn't fun or pretty when I got done. :)

I have a MPEM on a Seadoo speedster that think is gonna need a rev limiter replaced.
 
It took a good hard solid day's work as it was my first ever attempt to depott...... so my method was to have 4 average sized screwdrivers on low heat on rotation on the hob scribing out the circumference edges until u get right to the bottom of the casing until u have a complete clear track around the casing. This is where I kinda gave up because the case was not releasing from the mpem and I was exhausted.
But I then noticed there was 3 slight dimples on the potting surface situated quite a bit apart so I began to probe a little and then realised that they were the reason why the case wasn't releasing from the mpem board so continued to dig out the 3 potholes right down to the case and hey presto the mpem just Released straight away
Finding the diode was pretty easy for my 2003 rxdi as its just a case of looking and working out where it can actually fit between the fuse panel and the loom panels . But I would suggest to only scrape a couple of millimetres at a time when stripping the mpem for the diode search . I'll let u know if I'm successful
 

Attachments

  • IMG-20220604-WA0003.jpeg
    IMG-20220604-WA0003.jpeg
    266.7 KB · Views: 14
  • IMG-20220604-WA0005.jpeg
    IMG-20220604-WA0005.jpeg
    188.5 KB · Views: 12
  • IMG-20220604-WA0001.jpeg
    IMG-20220604-WA0001.jpeg
    183.1 KB · Views: 13
Great job !! Here was mine on my 1996 SPI. I don't know how I didn't destroy these as I used a exacto blade to get in there and who knows what else. I Have 2 of them that are rigged for testing now but I'll probably never need them. :)
 

Attachments

  • 1996 SPI MPEM Diode Repair (7).jpg
    1996 SPI MPEM Diode Repair (7).jpg
    268.3 KB · Views: 14
  • 1996 SPI MPEM Diode Repair (10).jpg
    1996 SPI MPEM Diode Repair (10).jpg
    169.7 KB · Views: 13
  • 1996 SPI MPEM Diode Repair (12).jpg
    1996 SPI MPEM Diode Repair (12).jpg
    193.4 KB · Views: 11
Great job !! Here was mine on my 1996 SPI. I don't know how I didn't destroy these as I used a exacto blade to get in there and who knows what else. I Have 2 of them that are rigged for testing now but I'll probably never need them. :)
Yeah it's a labourius process for sure and you need patience ! Luckily my yachty friend is an electronic guru so he is replacing the notoriously troublesome MR2535L DIODE with an alternative but more effective Diode that works better
As I'm in the UK....... the cheapest used mpem with lanyard was around £700 sterling.
Good to link up buddy where are u based ?
 
When you are saving a lot of money it you have the time it is well worth it. Prices on parts are past crazy. I live Louisiana USA on the gulf coast. I took up restoring the Seadoo 2-strokes about 3 years ago. Motorcycles are my passion. I just bought a 2018 Aprilia Shiver 900. I'm starting the upgrades shortly. I have the parts.
 
Ahh that must be awesome using the jetski in louisiana on the gulf Coast? I'll check it out on YT . I took my Ski to a douchebag Marine engineer around a couple of weeks ago and I think he knew the mpem was shot...... but he kinda hoodwinked me into thinking it could be a bad earth somewhere

So after leaving it with him for 2 weeks he told me he'd supposedly traced all the wiring loom and he'd found the mpem was shot ! So basically I paid him for nothing and the ski was exactly the same when I picked it up

I'm just kinda praying that this diode repair works as I've already into the UK summer season and my rxdi is just sitting there looking sad !
Good to talk to u and enjoy your Ski
 
During my checks I removed the rave valves and tested them. The wouldn't hold air pressure so I took them apart. What I found was minute build up on the bores where th rubber rings seal. I cleaned them up with some ultra fine abrasive and reassembled. Much to my surprise they held pressure.

This makes me wonder how much air is sent to the rave valves from the rave solenoid. The Raves for the RFI have springs on the bottom and top which may be the reason for the different solenoids. They may look the same physically but the internals may have different orifice sizes. I still have not got the ski on the water yet. Hopefully this resolves the issue.
 
Last edited:
I think it was last year since cleaned up my rave valves but if I can recollect there is an airtight vacuum.... in fact I think you can buy replacement seals but don't quote me on this ?


First time I cleaned the raves they were in a pretty bad way..... coated in thick oil , probably a result of different 2 stroke oils by the previous owner !
You got me thinking actually about maybe buying some more 2 stroke skis as they are always typically sold for spares or repair nowadays as no one wants to do the work and seeing as I'm kinda becoming more knowledgeable now I'm gravitating Towards the thought of maybe buying a project !

But hay let's hope my diode repair works ? Tbh if it does I'll be reasonably impressed with myself
 
Ski did great !! Smooth transition and able to easily hold any RPM I liked. If I wasn't so lazy I'd swap back to the black rave solenoid and check the ski performance but I'm too happy with how it is running now. "D
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top