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2002 GTX Limited (naturally aspirated)... Is this a problem?

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Duane72

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So... this motor starts every time, runs like a champ, and has plenty of power. Started taking on water in the hull and had a wicked (yes, I'm from New England) vibration. Shaft/hull seal obviously, but bearing maybe? Pulled it apart and this is what I found... is this a problem?? LOL Now all I have to do is see if I can actually get the bearing race out of the pump housing and if the impeller shaft is still any good.
 

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So... this motor starts every time, runs like a champ, and has plenty of power. Started taking on water in the hull and had a wicked (yes, I'm from New England) vibration. Shaft/hull seal obviously, but bearing maybe? Pulled it apart and this is what I found... is this a problem?? LOL Now all I have to do is see if I can actually get the bearing race out of the pump housing and if the impeller shaft is still any good.

Sorry... the attachment didn't work the first time for whatever reason and I couldn't delete it in edit mode.

2002 GTX Pump FAIL - web.jpg
 
Seems like you answered your own question. Pretty much depends on what all was damaged. The good thing is that the pump didnt seize up causing your drive shaft and motor to lock up as well under way. Anyways good luck with it all. Seems like you will be doing a complete pump rebuild.
 
Looked at all the individual parts. Holey moley. Wonder if I could buy a new or reman pump for the price of parts alone.
 
Got the pump off and pulled apart. The impeller looked almost reuseable but the shaft that goes through the bearing and threads into the impeller may be toast. The bearing apparently was never checked for lubrication, all the oil leaked out, water seeped in (EVERYTHING was rusty in were the bearing was... supposed... to be), and the bearing failed and blew apart. All the ballbaerings were laying in the bottom of the cone. Major fail on the count of no maintenance. Tried finding a used or reman pump to see if it would cost approximately what it would to rebuild this one but can't find them.
 
2 things. Don't try to reuse that impeller shaft and the pump is lubricated by grease not oil. :cheers:
 
2 things. Don't try to reuse that impeller shaft and the pump is lubricated by grease not oil. :cheers:

Yes, the pump is lubricated by grease on the 4 tec... the 02 GTX manual does show oil lubed versions however. This one I'm working on does happen to be the 4 tec though so I planned on using grease. You can see where it wore through the bearing race and actually began to eat at the impeller shaft. That's a $90 ouch.
 
Got the pump off and pulled apart. The impeller looked almost reuseable but the shaft that goes through the bearing and threads into the impeller may be toast. The bearing apparently was never checked for lubrication, all the oil leaked out, water seeped in (EVERYTHING was rusty in were the bearing was... supposed... to be), and the bearing failed and blew apart. All the ballbaerings were laying in the bottom of the cone. Major fail on the count of no maintenance. Tried finding a used or reman pump to see if it would cost approximately what it would to rebuild this one but can't find them.

If i replace the shaft does that mean I have to buy a new sleeve where the seals ride as well? They want almost $90 for each of those items. That's crazy!
 
If the sleeve is nice and smooth in the area where it goes into the seals I would reuse it. Any pitting, dings, etc. I would throw it away.
 
Is it supposed to slide off or is it pressed on? Not sure how to get it off if it is pressed. It must fit snug to not spin on the shaft. Thought about heating it and seeing if it slides off.
 
I have the pump back together. I was able to reuse the impeller shaft. It didn't wear through the race into the shaft as I had thought. Once I got the races off the shaft was smooth and ok. Everything went back together well. The new bearing came as a sealed unit which I haven't seen before. I put some of the Bombardier grease in the designated areas anyway just to be sure. It spins great and the new wear ring and impeller have perfect clearance.
Today I am going to pull the drive shaft. I am planning to simply cut the stainless steel ring/collar since I have a full drive line rebuild kit. I tried to push it back with a pry bar and 2X4 like someone suggested in another thread, but it won't move. Had the shaft properly supported and blocked at the pump end too. You can see the rust on the shaft and I am convinced I'll spend more time working at it than it will just to use a cutting wheel and cut it off. Being extremely careful not to cut the shaft of course. I can go most of the way and snap it with a punch if need be. This whole job has been a learning experience that's for sure! But a fun one in some ways too. Looking forward to getting it back on the water and seeing how the thing runs! Will post more pictures later.
 
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