2002 GTX Fogged Gauge Cluster

[lamajama]

I see from perusing other threads on here that the early 4-tecs have had issues with fogging/moisture in the gauge clusters.

This has now started to occur in my 2002 GTX. So far no issues electrically but I'm sure it's coming....

Short of replacing the cluster as suggested by some ($750+ USD) is there anything otherwise I can do to solve this issue?

 

[BigDfromTN]

All I have been able to find is to replace it. They are also year model specific as I understand.
As of now I am running mine with bad units. Since I have two, that is a big bill to pay. One I can see at certain angles at times. The other is totally fried and gives a long warning beep about every 15 minutes or so. I just ignore it and use my CanDoo software to clear the code every once in awhile.

Best of Luck!

 

[mkov608]

It is possible to disassemble the cluster, dry out the components, clean up the corrosion, repair wires (if necessary), and put it back together. You have to be very careful not to break the lens, as individual cluster parts are not available unless you cannibalize a used one. The corrosion was so bad in one of my information centers that one of the wires separated from the terminal block.

 

[lamajama]

At this point I wouldn't imagine there is component damage. I would think you could dry out the moisture on the lens but that wouldn't
prevent the moisture from re-occurring.

Any "simple" ideas on how to determine where the leak might be and would caulking do the trick at the leak location?

 

[mkov608]

Understand. My lens was clear (no fogging at all), but I had significant corrosion inside. So when it comes to the internals, we don't know what we don't know until you take it apart. The bad part of the design is that the cable connections sit at the lowest point in the case. So, if you do get water inside, all the electrical contacts get a nice bath. Sea-Doo did a fantastic job of designing failure into the cluster!

A very simple way to determine where the water is entering the cluster is to hold it under water and look for bubbles.

During disassembly, look for pinch points in the gasket as indicated by folds or creases in the seal. Also look for debris as the water isn't pure, it will carry particles with it and those particles (think hard water deposits) will settle on the seal where the water enters the cluster; they may or may not be visible. During reassembly, I would suggest using some type of flexible RTV sealant. It would be nice if we could get new seals, but I've had no luck finding a vendor.

 

[lamajama]

Excellent info! Thanks! Really appreciate it.

I may wait until the end of our season and hope for the best until then.

 

[lamajama]

I took out the one piece cluster today as it fogged up right away again last trip out. I see no indications of any water stains etc on any of the cluster and see no obvious
ways as suggested above, to disassemble the cluster.

I think it's a fair assumption that the leak would be on the bottom of the cluster as that is where water of course accumulates when riding. Barring a leak test to find it I
suppose I will just be able to apply a bead of sealant around where the clear screen attached to the body of the cluster and hope for the best.

 

[benjilafouine]

I have a similar problem on mine: sometimes, there is a little fog on the speedometer (mine is an older model) but it just runs fine. Fog comes and go (depending on the weather). I also have the same issue on my ATV display. It's been like that for years and also works fine (my ATV is a 2011 and I believe I noticed it one year after I bought it).

Unless you see water in it or the panel getting worse, it could be just a bit of humidity inside and it will remain in there since it is sealed. Doesn't mean it will break soon according to my experience but lookout if it is getting worse.

Benji.

 

[lamajama]

Thanks Benji.

I see no water per se but certainly the glass is steaming up every run now so water/moisture is getting in. It must be significant now as it's
fogging every ride.

I suppose I have nothing to lose by doing the sealant as it will have to be replaced.

As the replacements are $500+ I wonder if there is any value in my old one if it comes to that. Someone who is smarter than me could maybe seal it
up and sell it..? That would help the sting a little at least...

 

[lamajama]

While I'm on the subject, is it safe to believe that the gauge cluster itself contains no readings/memory of the seadoo? It's all contained in the ECM
of the seadoo correct?

As well I have a short tube coming out the back of the cluster - what is this? It is to allow some air (it does allow air to pass thru) into the electrical components?

Here is a pic:



Here is the cluster - I have noticed significantly more moisture being drawn out now as it sits in the sun

 

[benjilafouine]

Hmmm. I'd say yours is bad. What I was talking about was just a little fog, the kind of less than half a square inch. Yours is way beyond that. You are right to worry at this stage. Problem is (I think) is that once water gets in, it never goes out. As for the short tube, I have no clue. For my ATV, when I noticed the issue, dealer told me that these gauges were sealed and that they have to be replaced as a whole but I guess everything can be dismantled if not pressed-fit or snapped-in beyond any chance of opening it without breaking it (which you can't do nothing about it).

If your ski is in very good condition, and if I were you, I would definitely look into fixing this.

Benji.

 

[lamajama]

Oh it will be fixed somehow. If the sealant doesn't work I'll have to cough up for the replacement - and then I have to believe that those replacements on EBay
as an example have fixed this known issue with those version of parts - or could this happen again?

 

[lamajama]

Asking that memory question to the Forum again - does this cluster hold any information regarding this specific seadoo, or is it just a "dumb" gauge?

 

[lamajama]

Just for giggles I send an email to BRP and explained the circumstances "2002 GTX 4tec gauge etc etc BRP defect for 2002/03/04 (not sure on the 04....) etc etc
does the new part number for the gauge solve the common defect etc etc....again clearly explaining the fact it's a 2002

I get an answer fairly quickly:

In response to your request, BRP warrants from the date of the original retail purchase that all BRP sold as new and installed by an authorized North American BRP dealer will be free from any defect in material for a period of:

TWELVE (12) CONSECUTIVE MONTHS.

You will need to take the item to your local BRP dealer along with the receipt/Bill of Sale to have the item assessed. If the item is found to have a manufacturer defect, the dealer will have the defective parts replaced or repaired.


:facepalm: :banghead:

I asked them to re-read the original email. I'll let everyone know whatever the answer is....

 

[Sea Dood]

They are not going to admit any problems, which you are asking them to do. If anything, the clusters made now are worse than the old ones. Lots of newer skis out there with bad clusters right now.

 

[lamajama]

You have a good point but I'm not sure what they might be afraid of 10+ years after the fact as I don't believe that it could be litigated.

Even the quality of :bs: coming out of them isn't the highest quality.

That's great news on the current quality of the clusters....:facepalm:

I've owned quite a few seadoos and this is my 1st problem with fogging although my experience with 4tec's is only a few years....so I'm sure I'll have to replace mine and
just roll the dice.

 

[lamajama]

I have been informed that old gauge retains the hours and whatever new/used gauge
I replace it with will show whatever hours are on the "new" gauge and I will have to marry
the gauge to the Seadoo. Hopefully my CanDoo can do that.

 

[lamajama]

According to the Candoo makers, 2002-2005 are "plug and play"; 2006 and up must be married to the ECU.

BRP did answer my question, and essentially blamed it on us riders rather than make a quality gauge.

Moisture in gauges can be caused by many items. Operating temps as well as storage temps can cause this.
The gauges are vented to allow the internal temp changes. So there always is a chance for moisture.
The largest item I have seen to cause this is storage after the unit is operated and not allowing the unit to cool
down before covering. Throwing a cover over a unit that the engine is at a 200 degree, covering it and leaving out
in 100 degree weather can effect all this, as a example.