• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

2001 rx di low fuel pressure

Status
Not open for further replies.
I started a new thread for this only because the original was a confusing 2 topic thread. I replaced 2 old and clogged fuel filters inside the tank. Started the ski and pressure held at 107psi for a bit and then lost it all and stopped running. I’m thinking 1. the fuel pump check valve is bad but would that stop the ski from running or just a long crank time?? 2. Bad fuel regulator 3. Just a bad pump. Not sure which one to go with.
 
The check valve only holds pressure when the pump is off so that would not cause the issue.
What fuel pump do you have?
 
I currently have the oem fuel pump, with about 80 hours on it. Im thinking of changing the pump with the HFP 500di only because I read somewhere that it work equivalent to the OEM pump and draws the same amount of amperage
 
If that HFP 500 DI truly works equivalent to the OEM, then it's a miracle. 80 hrs doesn't seem like a lot, however, water that sits in an OEM and rusts, can kill it.
 
If that HFP 500 DI truly works equivalent to the OEM, then it's a miracle. 80 hrs doesn't seem like a lot, however, water that sits in an OEM and rusts, can kill it.
@POPPS with that being said, the ski did sit for 4 years and the fuel was a bit watered down. If there is rust in the pump that’s probably why after 5 minutes of the ski running it’s seems a bit taxing for the pump to keep up with the required pressure.
 
I did clean it but I didn't get a difference in performance. Got the new pump, if the same thing happens its obviously not the pump. Next I'm assuming would be the regulator.
 
External filter was changed. Even if I run the engine without the filter and the pressure gauge in its place I get the same result.
 
Pump is your problem. Fuel pressure is critical. DI skis will just not run without 107 combined pressure.
 
I am in the middle of an experiment, ( that does not use toluene and gas to clear out the OME pump), to truly clean/ clear out the debris and especially rust that accumulates on the metal roller vanes, ( reason for all these failures). I Will report back with results mon evening on this thread.
 
I received a comment from someone on pwctoday and he said that sometimes he has known of electric fuel pumps where the motor bushings no longer contain enough oil (due to age), allow the motor to run initially, and then get hot & bind and eventually affect fuel pressure to the point of no-run. I think he make a pretty good point which could be the answer as to why this is happening. So, even if the pump has been cleaned out on the inside, the electrical part could be worn down as well. Anyways, I have received the new pump, HFP 500di, installed and had to do a little retro fit. Started the ski and it runs just fine. PSI holds at 107 and I have a voltage reading at over 12v. With that being said, the only problem is that when the key goes on the pump does not hold 27psi. Im assuming this happens because there is no check valve in the pump like the oem pumps have. So far so good until I run the ski in the water. Will keep updating.
 
So I got the ski in the water today and she ran great!!! Voltage was perfect as well as performance. We will see how many hours I get out of this pump.
 
Hijacking this thread a bit as I was able to perform the fuel pressure test on my 2000 GTX DI for the first time yesterday. It jumped to 27 when I put the lanyard on, and went over 100 when I was cranking it (motor is blown and does not start). However, the fuel pressure leaked down immediately after each test and I could hear it running back into the fuel tank.

This was after a complete disassembly of the pump, cleaning with 50/50 gas/xylene, replacing all the filters, etc. I just had the pump sitting in the tank, not bolted down, no gasket. Surely the tank does not hold pressure?

The manual says "a rapid pressure fall indicates excessive leakage either from the air/fuel rail or from the fuel pump check valve". I did not observe any leakage at the fuel rail, so is my check valve bad? I have since started the process of engine removal but want to make sure I have the fuel issue sorted as I suspect it may have contributed to my engine problems.
 
Last edited:
Hijacking this thread a bit as I was able to perform the fuel pressure test on my 2000 GTX DI for the first time yesterday. It jumped to 27 when I put the lanyard on, and went over 100 when I was cracking it (motor is blown and does not start). However, the fuel pressure leaked down immediately after each test and I could hear it running back into the fuel tank.

This was after a complete disassembly of the pump, cleaning with 50/50 gas/xylene, replacing all the filters, etc. I just had the pump sitting in the tank, not bolted down, no gasket. Surely the tank does not hold pressure?

The manual says "a rapid pressure fall indicates excessive leakage either from the air/fuel rail or from the fuel pump check valve". I did not observe any leakage at the fuel rail, so is my check valve bad? I have since started the process of engine removal but want to make sure I have the fuel issue sorted as I suspect it may have contributed to my engine problems.

So I had the pretty much the same problem. When I took the ski out on the water it would run for maybe 5 min and then would stall out due to low fuel pressure. Lanyard on it would pump just fine but it didn't hold pressure in the line. I wasn't sure if the pump was getting weak or the check valve failed but I changed the pump and it works just fine.

The tank does not hold pressure, I'm assuming the, if the pump was good, the pump would work just fine without being bolted down and with no gasket. Seems like your fuel rail should be good. Hope this helps....
 
I am in the middle of an experiment, ( that does not use toluene and gas to clear out the OME pump), to truly clean/ clear out the debris and especially rust that accumulates on the metal roller vanes, ( reason for all these failures). I Will report back with results mon evening on this thread.

I am interested in this as I am sure I'll run into such problems sooner or later.
 
I am interested in this as I am sure I'll run into such problems sooner or later.
Agreed, although, if this actually works well, there has to be a end life to the parts inside the pump regardless if all the junk is cleaned out. Once the bushings inside the pump have burned off all the oil there is no way of "re-oiling" these parts. Therefore, the pump is essentially done. Kinda makes sense. I actually has this exact conversation with someone on another forum. For me, easiest solution was to obviously change the pump instead of trying to prolong the life of a used pump and risk the chance of getting stranded out on the water.
 
I am working on the wear ring for a 2003 RX DI. The owner was telling me the local Seadoo shop installed an aftermarket pump in his ski. I believe the pump was under $70. They told the owner the pump would need a hot battery to function well as it drew more current than the OEM. Of course the aftermarket pump was about $800 cheaper than OEM. LOL Guys said the ski works great. So... if the dealers are installing these pumps.... what they hey... it works for me.
 
I am working on a 2003 RX DI. The local Seadoo shop installed an aftermarket pump in his ski. I believe the pump was under $70. They told the owner the pump would need a hot battery to function well as it drew more current than the OEM. Of course the aftermarket pump was about $800 cheaper than OEM. LOL Guys said the ski works great. So... if the dealers are installing these pumps.... what they hey... it works for me.
Totally agree, and in reference to the volt/amp situation, this pump draws the exact same amount as the OEM pump. That was basically my main concern. No low voltage warning or anything like that.
 
A 951 motor with electric fuel pump rarely blows up from the pump creating a lean situation, they either get their required fuel, and air pressure and operate, or they bog , don't rev out, or won't even start, Their enemy is water intrusion, and or metal fatigue. The car'b version will blow up from a lean carb or lean fuel delivery system ahead of the carb. I have yet to have an after market pump work, their pressure is usually not enough, and they use more current than the OEM and will draw a 12 volt low warning.
 
I am working on the wear ring for a 2003 RX DI. The owner was telling me the local Seadoo shop installed an aftermarket pump in his ski. I believe the pump was under $70. They told the owner the pump would need a hot battery to function well as it drew more current than the OEM. Of course the aftermarket pump was about $800 cheaper than OEM. LOL Guys said the ski works great. So... if the dealers are installing these pumps.... what they hey... it works for me.
Thats sounds great but I wonder why they would do that for a customer instead of pushing for an OEM pump instead. Unfortunately by me the 2 seadoo dealers no longer do any work on 2 stroke engines. Theres actually a power sports shop not too far from me and he bought basically their entire inventory or 2 stroke parts!!! At least if need be I have him to send the ski to.
 
Thats sounds great but I wonder why they would do that for a customer instead of pushing for an OEM pump instead. .

One of the reasons we love it here in Louisiana... we help one another all the time. :) Mississippi too. I'm right on the border. :D:D
 
Last edited:
I want to check the fuel pressure on a 2003 RX DI. I haven't looked at the system yet but is there a specific connection port for that. I'm hoping I don't have to make another test hose. Plugging in would be much easier. I also plan on testing the air pressure. This is gonna be an interesting first time. LOL I hope everything tests out good or I'll be first timing replacing the fuel pump on the DI.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top