2000 GTX RFI 787 Burning Excessive Oil at Idle

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jimmay3

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Noticed recent issue when starting up out of water, definitely burning oil with heavy smoke from exhaust. Seemed to get better more it ran, took to the water with it and same issue in the water at startup, seemed to go away in a few mins, so took out to the water and ran good all day. Same issue week late;, started up for pre-launch checks in garage and smoked out the neighborhood, this time never seemed to get better.

Read some posts on possible crank and rotary valve seals leaking after sitting a while, but really can not find an easy step by step procedure narrow it down. I did ensure the oil pump cable is hooked up and on the index marks at idle, so it would really seem like the crank or rotary shaft seals might be leaking. In an attempt to troubleshoot, I removed the oil return line from the top of the oil tank and blew into to it till all oil returned to the tank and then squeezed off the supply line and blew into the return line and it appears to hold perfect pressure. Though if crank seals were bad it would leak right thru, but held very tight.

So next I pulled the rotary valve cover off for a quick inspection, nothing noted out of ordinary, no excessive oil build up, put all back together and still starts good, but still has heavy oil coming from exhaust. Blew all oil out of return line again and sealed off both return and supply lines from tank, let sit a few days and still same issue on start. Read some posts about storing ski with nose down to keep oil from leaking in seals to get thru the season and tear it down after, but this time on startup I had a lockup, pulled plugs and cranked with a rag over the holes and found the front cylinder full of oil, got it all out and still starts good, but same burning oil issue is still there. Did note dark gray/blackish oil dripping from the both exhaust areas outside of ski fairly heavy.

I'm at a loss, just take it to the water and run it out and if it stops, pinch off supply line after use and see it it leaks down again? There must be some easy steps to do without having an expensive factory leak test kit that blocks off all the ports?
 
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From what I understand, the oil pump can not really fail (leak) for too much oil if indexed properly, thus the only thing left is the crank and rotary valve seals? Either way its and engine pull?
 
Unfortunately it sounds like the inner crank seal is shot... It’s going to smoke at startup until that crank gets replaced. If it will clear up while running, then run it until the seasons over, but it’s going to have to come apart unfortunately. No test is going to give you any more information than you’ve already got...
 
It depends on who you talk to. Some people have had problems with them and some people swear by them... It’s really a gamble with any of the engine builders unfortunately. They all have their ups and downs. From what I’ve seen, SBT motors aren’t the best quality of build, but they’re on the shelf and they do stand by their warranty. Full bore seems to put the best product out there, but they can take a long time to get the motor built and shipped. SES has had some bad reviews, and seems to be in the middle as far as time and quality.
 
Ran great for 2 hours yesterday, except for the smokey startup, even after a 30 min break and restart all was good.

Read a few articles about possible check valves in oil supply system that can be weak and allow oil to drip into RV and Cyls, not seeing them in any manual or parts list directly, but may be because its part of the oil pump? Section 4-2 (Leak Test) and 7-3 (Oil Pump) do ref some check valves in oil system, unless they are referring to the oil tank vent check valve. Shop manual refs attached...

For now I drained the tank and blew all oil out of the RV shaft chamber, will try a little more to possibly isolate something other than the crank seals. I read a lot of people say to remove the oil cap to stop leaks from press changes due to high outside temp changes, but if they are referring to the oil tank vent check valve as holding the oil in, then by removing the cap you would bypass the vent and allow the system to fully leak.

Also, read a few lower the trailer in front to allow the oil to go to front of oil tank and not allow any to the feed lines, went as low as I could go, but only worked after I drained tank. I have it setup nose down and drained, so only oil is in the feed line that is going to the oil pump, cause I blew the RV chamber out by blowing into the return line. There is a slight rise in the RV feed line where it clips onto motor, so oil is only feeding the oil pump in the length of the pump feed line, so it that oil disappears and eng smokes or hyd locks, it could only be thru the pump. Only did this cause its very hard to fully pinch off the line to the RV chamber, would always check in a few hours and when I blew into the return line the chamber was fully again.

So I guess really need to prove which circuit the oil (pump or RV chamber) is going thru to get into the motor. If its the RV chamber supply line, then def the crank seals, but if its the oil pump circuit, then def not the crank seals.

I also thought the oil circulated thru the RV chamber via the feed and return lines, but read this oil is stagnant, could be the same oil there for years (contaminated, dirty, mixed types), true? I guess its poss, cause there in nothing pumping it around unless you flip the unit.

Ref:
injection oil check valve replacement
Crank case and crank inner seal leaking oil into intake
 

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