1998 GTX Limited fuel injected

[jproy]

I have a 1998 GTX Limited and have had a long going problem I would like to get to the bottom of. We bought the ski new in 1998. The ski is going in for service to a new dealer in the area and I am hoping they can get it right. It has been going to Alex Sterling Marine in Baton Rouge and they don't seem to have a clue what is going on and are more concerned about charging me for things that aren’t broken. About 6 years ago the ski started having a hesitation problem where it would not rev up past 4-5k rpm and would intermittently "take off" at full power and blast up to 65mph. We took it to a dealer in Baton Rouge and they insisted it needed a new motor. They said compression was around 110psi on each cylinder. We let them change the engine and when we got it back it ran but never ever jumped out of the water when pegging the accelerator like it used to before it went in for the new motor. This thing is just slow as hell to rev up to peak RPM and just isn’t fast anymore. It will still do 50+ but it takes forever to get there. When you do peg the accelerator it just slowly revs up to peak RMP, no burst of power like before. I remember it used to be a rocket ship. I know the dealer we used to take it to was a total slouch. They never serviced it properly and would only fix one problem and skip another. I know the RAVE system has never been serviced. I took the caps off the two rave parts on the pistons and they moved freely but seemed a little gummy, if you will. They weren’t quick to pop back into position. I don’t know Jack about the rave system or how it is supposed to work. I was hoping you guys could give me a list of things to insist the dealer check and recheck.

The reason I am finally bringing it into the dealer is that the front piston is not getting fuel and the engine won’t keep running after the initial spark off of the piston that is getting fuel. I checked the plugs and both are sparking and the engine will run if I leave the front plug out and there is no fuel smell. I do a lot of work on modern cars. Do I need to replace the injectors or how should they be serviced. I know for a fact nothing other than batteries and wear rings have ever been serviced on this ski. The ski goes into the shop on Monday and I would appreciate any advice you can give me to get this thing running like it used to.

Thanks for your time.

Jim

 

[jproy]

I have also tried to locate the fuel injectors on SeaDooWarehouse.com and cant locate it to save my life. Anyone know where it is?

 

[jproy]

bump :cheers:

 

[jproy]

Here are some pics of the beast and our Kawasaki. Bump

 

[jproy]

Still no luck,

I pulled the fuel injector rail and turned the motor over. both injectors had a steady even spray. I did it for a while to make sure it was working.
How should I check the fuel pressure?

I also replaced the sprark plugs and all the symptoms are the same as before.


Anyone know where I can find a good DIY for cleaning all three of the RAVE valves??? How do you tune the RAVE valves?

 

[xdhd350]

Anyone know where I can find a good DIY for cleaning all three of the RAVE valves??? How do you tune the RAVE valves?

Remove the caps and springs as shown in your picture. Take out the two allen screws holding the RAVE valve body to the engine. The front one will have to be turned to clear the head pipe. There are only two RAVE valves. The other one is a water regulator. I have the same ski as you do, only it's the 1999 model. The blades of the RAVE valves will likely be coated up with carbon and thick oil residue. Carb cleaner and a wire wheel will clean them right up. Put the caps on and use a small amount of air to see if the valve lifts when pressurized (it doesn't take much, don't over pressure the hose inlet). It should then go back down under spring pressure when the air is removed.

The water regulator has a cap that looks the same, but the innards are different. It is a needle type valve that acts as a water diverter based on engine speed.

Put everything back together and check the compression. It should be around 150psi in each cylinder. For example, mine is showing 150 for the front, and 147 for the rear. That's well within spec.

Good luck.

 

[jproy]

Just got the compression test back. 20 psi on one and 140 on the other. It is an SBT block that was replaced two years ago almost to date.

So, the question is what to do now? It obviously needs a new short block. I can swap it myself but I dont want to get another SBT block. What are my options now? I would like to have a block back in it within two weeks for a Florida trip. Any Ideas?

Thanks, Jim

 

[xdhd350]

Just got the compression test back. 20 psi on one and 140 on the other.

The 20psi cylinder has a serious issue. Stuck or broken ring, cracked cylinder jug, blown head gasket, etc.

It will need a new top end, not a whole new block. The cylinder jugs are separate but both should be pulled to at least put a new cylinder gasket in which is one piece.

If you have it at a shop, they should be advising a top end replacement IMHO.

Sorry for the bad luck.

 

[jproy]

Thanks for the reply. I know it probably doesnt need a whole new short block but The dealer where it is has already told me for them to do anything with it, it will need a new short block. They didnt even want to work on it since it was more than ten years old. They said they made an exception since it was in such good condition.

I have been doing quite a bit of research and it seems that the SBT blocks are built with cheap Chinese steel. Thats why they are so cheap. I have heard of so many failures. I want to get an entire ne Seadoo Short Block now. I dont want crap in my bike.

 

[Rotor13B]

Thanks for the reply. I know it probably doesnt need a whole new short block but The dealer where it is has already told me for them to do anything with it, it will need a new short block. They didnt even want to work on it since it was more than ten years old. They said they made an exception since it was in such good condition.

I have been doing quite a bit of research and it seems that the SBT blocks are built with cheap Chinese steel. Thats why they are so cheap. I have heard of so many failures. I want to get an entire ne Seadoo Short Block now. I dont want crap in my bike.

If I were you I would get my ski back from the dealer and do a topend rebuild. Cheaper than a reman. and you could learn a bit about your ski along the way.

As far as the cheap chinese steel comment, It doesn't make any sense. Why do you think they want your old block for? They want to rebuild it and sell it.

 

[xdhd350]

The dealer where it is has already told me for them to do anything with it, it will need a new short block. They didnt even want to work on it since it was more than ten years old. They said they made an exception since it was in such good condition.

Sorry, that's BS. They are trying to take you for more money.

As to the comment about SBT, they reman the blocks and cylinders, which, BTW are cast aluminum, not steel. The cylinders have a metal sleeve insert that can be replaced to bring a cylinder jug back to standard size rings and piston.