so i have twin 717 engines. ran a compression test and 1 engine has 140 in each cylinder. the second engine however has 90 in one cylinder and 110 on the other. obviously it is time to rebuild the top end on the 1. i have a little knowledge and a shop manual.lol. how hard would this be to do myself? no shop will touch it bc of the age, they say its to hard to get parts for or its better to just replace the whole engine... whatever screw them. i see you can buy top end kits all day long online. i just need some advice on this bc i actually have no clue, i would be doing this for first time. i did however change the starter out... prop to me. lol. i just dont know what im getting into when it comes to determing the amount of damage in cylinder and whatnot. could i just buy a kit and slap it in if i caught it early enough? would i have to get it bored? am i opening a can of worms i dont want to? should i find a mechanic? lol. but seriously i justt need some advice!
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1996 seadoo speedeter... TOP END REBUILD
- Thread starter yates2k5
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jhjesse
Well-Known Member
Download a repair manual spend a little time reading the engine repair section, then do it yourself. SBT has a cylinder exchange program, as well as, top end kits.
You could also do an engine core exchange for some more money, and you can get a two year no fault warranty. If you have problems there is plenty of on this site.
ocod
Well-Known Member
If it only the top end.
Like others already have mentioned super easy as long as bolts don't snap :banghead:
Spray some PB on the bolt head and let sit.
Once you take off all the top bolts you'll see 8 more(4 in ea jug). Once those are out, pull jugs off.
Post picture from there to see if cyl wall scored.
If you have to bore and get new pistons try fullbore. 300 bucks includes honing of jugs to new coated pistons and will include rest of the stuff needed to finish install yourself.
If your in Miami I could help
Like others already have mentioned super easy as long as bolts don't snap :banghead:
Spray some PB on the bolt head and let sit.
Once you take off all the top bolts you'll see 8 more(4 in ea jug). Once those are out, pull jugs off.
Post picture from there to see if cyl wall scored.
If you have to bore and get new pistons try fullbore. 300 bucks includes honing of jugs to new coated pistons and will include rest of the stuff needed to finish install yourself.
If your in Miami I could help
Phildoo
New Member
I just did a upper rebuild on one of mine. The scariest part is the fear of breaking a bolt. Mine was a virgin engine. Never been apart. So as I started to remove the bolts I swear they were gonna break, I stopped and called a buddy of mine who owns a metal fab shop. They specialize in stainles steel. He filled me in on the dynamics of stainless. Stuff I never knew.
The first rule of stainless is it does NOT like heat!!! Because Of the lack of ore in it. It swells super fast vs a regular bolt.
So, when trying to remove the head bolts, break them free and turn a half or full turn.. Then stop!,.. Go to next bolt and do the same until removed. It also helps to rap the bOlt head sharply with a hammer once or twice. This loosens the corrosion. It works. I ve never broken a single bolt yet. Use a long bar for leverage and keep it consistent, don't try and snap it free.. Smooth motion. You'll be fine.
The first rule of stainless is it does NOT like heat!!! Because Of the lack of ore in it. It swells super fast vs a regular bolt.
So, when trying to remove the head bolts, break them free and turn a half or full turn.. Then stop!,.. Go to next bolt and do the same until removed. It also helps to rap the bOlt head sharply with a hammer once or twice. This loosens the corrosion. It works. I ve never broken a single bolt yet. Use a long bar for leverage and keep it consistent, don't try and snap it free.. Smooth motion. You'll be fine.
El Toro 33809
Well-Known Member
Yates, where in Florida are you located?
Phildoo
New Member
No puller needed. find a nut and bolt that goes thru the Riss pin, bout 4 inches long or so. Remove the clip on the rod. Use vise grips or pliers and tap the pin towards you. Comes right out. Easy as hell.
Additional tip. Cover exposed area at base of rod with a cloth so needle bearings and clip don't fall into crankcase.
It really helps to stick a magnet to the rod as close to the bottom of piston as possible, it grabs all the needle bearings as they fall. Count them. I think there are 32, so you know one didn't drop somewhere.
Additional tip. Cover exposed area at base of rod with a cloth so needle bearings and clip don't fall into crankcase.
It really helps to stick a magnet to the rod as close to the bottom of piston as possible, it grabs all the needle bearings as they fall. Count them. I think there are 32, so you know one didn't drop somewhere.
hackete
New Member
A 12mm deep socket works good too. Personally I used a wood dowel I happened to have that worked. I used blue locktight putting it back together. We have a feed store nearby that has every size stainless steel bolt you could need. I think we broke 4 bolts when we did the polaris but none on the seadoo. If you break a bolt replace it with a stainless steel one. Take the clip out with a ice pick or hook pick for clip. If it has been replaced then may have snap rings. Wrap a towel or cloth around the rod before hand if it has the needle bearings that are not caged so they don't fall in the block (like Phildoo said). If they do fall in can use a magnet to get them. Count them make sure you have all of them. I will have to remember the magnet for the next one I do. Mine had 34 but it was a 95 XP 717. It may vary dunno.
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