1994 XP - Winterizing - Final Notes

[v1perfan]

Hi All,

It is now time that I seriously consider putting away the Seadoo for the year (considering it's hitting close to zero these days, I doubt I will have it out anymore this season unless we get a hotter than average Indian Summer).

So from what I have read, to get my Seadoo winterized, I should do the following (I have questions within):

1) Pull the cap off the tail cone and change the oil - Is this the tail cone on the impeller or something else? Is this process in the service manual?

2) Plug the hose into the intake port and flush - So I have the "official Seadoo" connecting hose that connects a garden hose to my intake port on the exhaust (? am I correct to say that?). Even though I haven't done it yet, can I assume that if I connect it and turn on the hose that I will be able to start up the Seadoo and let it idle without causing any damage to the engine? Am I to understand that it should just run at idle speed and not to hit the throttle?

3) Run antifreeze through the system - How do I do that? I'm guessing it's through the same intake port hose, but do I just put the hose in the bottle of antifreeze and let it draw it in, or do I need to supplement it with water? Also, what kind of Antifreeze should I use? Is the RV antifreeze good enough?

4) Fuel Stabilizer - check - easy enough to do.

5) Fog the engine - Can I simply take out the plugs, drop some oil down the ports and turn the engine over a few times to coat the cylinder walls?

6) Change the oil - I assume the service manual tells you how to do this? Is it simply a drain the motor / change the oil/filter process?

7) Remove the battery - check.

Any advice would be most appreciated. Maybe I'll even get adventurous and created a pictorial "HOW TO" on this process.

Thanks in advance.

Brian.

 

[Strizzo]

#1 and #6 are one and the same pump oil, two strokes don't have crankcase oil like your car would. also don't forget to grease the PTO and driveshaft seal carrier.


if you have the flush connector in a "T" on the intake hose, you'll need to pinch off the hose to the jet pump so that the water goes into the engine instead of out the back. start the engine before turning the water on, and turn the water off before shutting down the engine.

the manual shows the procedure for filling the motor with antifreeze, you unhook all the lines, and tie them up above the motor, and fill via the inlet hose with antifreeze.

fogging the engine, there should be a black plastic plug on the intake box, you pull it out, and stick the fogging oil spray can straw in there, and spray with the motor running iirc, until it kills the motor or like 20 seconds. this coats the engine internals that need to be protected.

Hi All,

It is now time that I seriously consider putting away the Seadoo for the year (considering it's hitting close to zero these days, I doubt I will have it out anymore this season unless we get a hotter than average Indian Summer).

So from what I have read, to get my Seadoo winterized, I should do the following (I have questions within):

1) Pull the cap off the tail cone and change the oil - Is this the tail cone on the impeller or something else? Is this process in the service manual?

2) Plug the hose into the intake port and flush - So I have the "official Seadoo" connecting hose that connects a garden hose to my intake port on the exhaust (? am I correct to say that?). Even though I haven't done it yet, can I assume that if I connect it and turn on the hose that I will be able to start up the Seadoo and let it idle without causing any damage to the engine? Am I to understand that it should just run at idle speed and not to hit the throttle?

3) Run antifreeze through the system - How do I do that? I'm guessing it's through the same intake port hose, but do I just put the hose in the bottle of antifreeze and let it draw it in, or do I need to supplement it with water? Also, what kind of Antifreeze should I use? Is the RV antifreeze good enough?

4) Fuel Stabilizer - check - easy enough to do.

5) Fog the engine - Can I simply take out the plugs, drop some oil down the ports and turn the engine over a few times to coat the cylinder walls?

6) Change the oil - I assume the service manual tells you how to do this? Is it simply a drain the motor / change the oil/filter process?

7) Remove the battery - check.

Any advice would be most appreciated. Maybe I'll even get adventurous and created a pictorial "HOW TO" on this process.

Thanks in advance.

Brian.

 

[manolocross]

# 2 now this is very important... Your engines life is dependent on this.. Turn engine on then turn the water on then let run for one minute maybe two but no more then turn water OFF then engine OFF...

 

[adamsbj123]

# 2 now this is very important... Your engines life is dependent on this.. Turn engine on then turn the water on then let run for one minute maybe two but no more then turn water OFF then engine OFF...

#7. Be sure to connect your battery to float mode maintainer. Dont forget to check the water level on occasion.

 

[seadoo/skidoo]

Hi All,

It is now time that I seriously consider putting away the Seadoo for the year (considering it's hitting close to zero these days, I doubt I will have it out anymore this season unless we get a hotter than average Indian Summer).

So from what I have read, to get my Seadoo winterized, I should do the following (I have questions within):

1) Pull the cap off the tail cone and change the oil - Is this the tail cone on the impeller or something else? Is this process in the service manual?

2) Plug the hose into the intake port and flush - So I have the "official Seadoo" connecting hose that connects a garden hose to my intake port on the exhaust (? am I correct to say that?). Even though I haven't done it yet, can I assume that if I connect it and turn on the hose that I will be able to start up the Seadoo and let it idle without causing any damage to the engine? Am I to understand that it should just run at idle speed and not to hit the throttle?

3) Run antifreeze through the system - How do I do that? I'm guessing it's through the same intake port hose, but do I just put the hose in the bottle of antifreeze and let it draw it in, or do I need to supplement it with water? Also, what kind of Antifreeze should I use? Is the RV antifreeze good enough?

4) Fuel Stabilizer - check - easy enough to do.

5) Fog the engine - Can I simply take out the plugs, drop some oil down the ports and turn the engine over a few times to coat the cylinder walls?

6) Change the oil - I assume the service manual tells you how to do this? Is it simply a drain the motor / change the oil/filter process?

7) Remove the battery - check.

Any advice would be most appreciated. Maybe I'll even get adventurous and created a pictorial "HOW TO" on this process.

Thanks in advance.

Brian.

1) I will post a pic of the pump oil, just remove 4 bolts on venturi nozzle, vts and steering rod bolts and the cone is right behind there. the cone has 3 8mm I believe bolts that you take off and it may require a hit with a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer to loosen the cone. than drain it re-install cone and fill it slowly till its full.

2) hook up hose start ski than hose run for a few minutes until warm, shut off hose than ski

3) to get antifreeze into the system, remove hose next to flush hose, put funnel in it thats where you pour in into. before you start pouring remove little clear hose that comes from under exhaust manifold and pinch it off with something, start pouring use clear hose as your "dip stick " or "antifreeze level" once antifreeze is full up to the top of the motor its done. leave hose pinched and big hose upright or all the antifreeze will just pour out. and yes just use pink rv/boats anitfreeze

4) as you said easy, also fill your tank almost all the way full and run for 10 mins to get carbs full of good gas

5) to fog engine (back to step 2, after you shut the water off and before you shut the ski off spray fogger oil into both carbs engine will die), than pull plugs spray oil into cyl's crank motor a few revolutions to coat piston's cyl's and crankshaft. re-install plugs

6) not a 4 stroke so no engine oil

7) remove battery, put it on something rubber never concrete. charge at least once per month and if it is not a maintenance free battery check water/acid level , add if necessary

A few more things to add, pull water box (big round thing at rear of ski) and drain any water in it. grease main bearing and engine coupler under that grey cap, pump it until you see grease come out. clean fuel filter , remove front storage box and look under dash you will see a cylinder shaped thing attached to fuel lines just unscrew it and drain contents in it (don't loose o-ring). and finally go over ski and check for any loose or missing bolts/nuts and check for leaks. Hope I was of help to you :cheers:

Nathan

 

[v1perfan]

Thanks to everyone who responded. You all provided a wealth of information that will ensure that my 'doo is up and running next year with no issues.

Thanks again!