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1992 seadoo bombardier xp 60 HP

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chaddyboy

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Hello my name is Chad Hayes and I am new to the website. I recently just bought a 92 seadoo XP and am trying to fix it up. I've confirmed two of the three key points to make an engine run. I have checked for spark and air, but i am missing the fuel. When i pour gasoline into the air intake it will start and run for a few seconds. I have already cleaned and replaced all necessary lines. i think my problem lies in my fuel pump, i know that the fuel is pulled out of the tank via the carburetor. Mr problem is that its not doing that and I'm not sure why can anybody out there give me some advice?
 
Hello my name is Chad Hayes and I am new to the website. I recently just bought a 92 seadoo XP and am trying to fix it up. I've confirmed two of the three key points to make an engine run. I have checked for spark and air, but i am missing the fuel. When i pour gasoline into the air intake it will start and run for a few seconds. I have already cleaned and replaced all necessary lines. i think my problem lies in my fuel pump, i know that the fuel is pulled out of the tank via the carburetor. Mr problem is that its not doing that and I'm not sure why can anybody out there give me some advice?

Sounds like you need to rebuild the carbs. The fuel is pulled thru the carb by the diaphragm.

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I have the twin carbs right here in front of me but I'm having trouble separating the choke link that links the two carbs together. Any ideas on how to get them apart?
 
How does the diaphragm look? Hold it to the light & see if there are any holes in it. If they are still off I'd take them apart and soak them, just remember to count how many turns it takes to close the H & L screws so you'll be able to put them back like they were. You may also need to clean out or bypass your fuel selector switch.
 
I will check that out in a few hours. I had already checked the fuel sector and it was clear I blew it out with air and cleaned out all the lines. The next thing I'm gonna do is put all new fuel lines on and hope that maybe they are just collapsing under the pressure.
 
Idk if this will help you but I know on mine I couldn't get fuel to my carb until I bypassed the switch. Not sure if it was coincidence or not but my problem was solved so I didn't look any further. Did you check to see if you were getting fuel to the carb?
 
When you say you bypassed the switch did you just take the switch out entirely and just put a hose straight from the tank to the filter and then to the carbeurator.
 
I left the switch so I wouldn't have a hole in my ski to deal with but here aren't any hoses connected to it.

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So i know where my problem is now. I'm not able to sucks fuel from the tank because there's no suction on the fuel intake port there's suction from the crankcase that goes into the pulse but after the pulse there's not anymore. How strong should it be at the crank case?
 
I'm not sure what the pulse is supposed to be. If you feel a low pressure coming from your pulse hose that should be enough to at least start the motor!

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yeah the engine will start and run fine theres no problem with that at all the only problem im having is that the carburetor is not pulling the fuel from the fuel tank to the carburetor. If i put fuel into the fuel filter and the intake line to the carb. it will suck the fuel from the carb and it will run until all the fuel is gone but it never pulls from the fuel tank and i have already checked all my lines and everything there arent any clogs anywhere and i did bypass the fuel selector valve as well as all new fuel lines.
 
Remove the inlet hose from the carb & put a hand vacuum pump on it to see if you get fuel.

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Remove the inlet hose from the carb & put a hand vacuum pump on it to see if you get fuel.

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I am a big fan of using the brake-bleeder with vacuum gauge set to suck fuel from the tank, connected as above. I further recommend to use a section of clear fuel line to connect the brake bleeder to the fuel line input to the carb so you can easier see if there are bubbles (leaks) in the supply line. If you read vacuum on the brake bleeder, you have an obstruction in the fuel path. If no vacuum reading and/or bubbles in the line you got an air leak; test both selecting normal and reserve at the fuel selector. I have found on these older skis that the fuel pickup in the tank has a filter/check valve on each feed for normal and reserve pickup and have found these check valves in both frozen open or frozen closed state. Also common to have the pickup lines in the fuel tank completely or partially rotted off.

Let us know what you see.
 
Both of the fuel lines were completed rotted off they weren't even there anymore but i had already found that out and have since replaced them but left off the filter screens because i could not find them. Im still trying to find a hand vacuum pump but I am as well confused as to where to put the hand vacuum pump. Am i supposed to put the hand vacuum pump on to the inlet hose line or the inlet on the carburetor.
 
Please be a little more specific in your profile for your location; makes it easier for someone out here to guide you to local resources.

But, in the United States, I am a big fan of Harbor Freight for lotsa stuff; check out their web site for local stores and search for "brake bleeder", I see them on sale now for $24.99. Web site has local store locator.

The fuel input line that you disconnected from the carb gets connected to the input of the brake bleeder. It makes it easier to see if you have leaks/bubbles if you use one of the supplied-with-brake bleeder clear lines and one of the in-line connectors to make this connection.

You will probably find the screens for the in-tank pick ups rolling around in the bottom of the fuel tank. The check valve in the screen prevents fuel flow back into the tank, my guess is for when your fuel level is lower than the fuel lines to make it so the engine does not need to do them extra cranks to draw more fuel and fill the lines.

I reiterate recommendation from many out here to install additional fuel filter just before the carb ... standard G2 filter from auto parts store seems to be a popular choice.

All for now, gotta rush off to Harbor Freight ... have a coupon for a free digital multimeter.
 
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