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12 v Low - Rectifier?

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DavesNotHereMan

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Guys:
I know that I have seen this many times, but I cannot seem to get Tapatalk to produce any search results.

I get a 12v Low indicator on my 2001 GTX RFI. Battery measures 12.25v at rest. Ski starts up fine. Voltmeter at battery measures 11.88v at idle, at 300 and 5000 rpm's. Is this a dead rectifier?

There are 2 wiring harnesses A black /red (charging?) and a second 3 yellow wires (Stator?)
6.jpg


Isn't there a stator ohm test also?
 
Dave, with engine off and battery connected normally, you should measure 12.5 (battery voltage) at the black and red wire of the rectifier/regulator. A trailer wiring test light with bulb in handle is good for this test, it should light just as bright as when connected direct to battery. If not, there's an open circuit somewhere between regulator and battery, could be fuse/lose ground/broken wire.

If that checks out okay, then measure the resistance between each yellow wire of the stator, and to ground. Typically less than 1 Ohm between yellow wires and complete isolation with ground. If one is open or high resistance then stator has an open winding, if conductance to ground then one winding is shorted to ground (a stator winding shorted to ground will blow a fuse).

Sometimes chunks of broken starter gear or a screw rattles lose inside magneto housing the bits will attach to flywheel magnet and wipe out the stator or cause it to short to ground intermittently, blowing a fuse. Water trapped inside mag housing can corrode stator over time, causing high resistance of winding(s).

If all that checks out okay, I'd say your regulator took a dump.
 
Sportster:
Thanks! That was the testing I've been trying to find.

One question: if I disconnect the red/black plug on the rectifier/regulator, the only way to test for battery power is in the wiring harness side of the plug. Correct?

I think I understand the stator wires. Again, on the harness side of the plug, I should get < 1 Ohm between any combination of the 3 wires. Then, I should have no continuity between any individual wire and ground. Correct?

BTW: still can't seem to get good search results using Tapatalk. It's great for reading and responding on the iPhone. Search? Not so great.
 
Dave, yes that's correct! If you want to back probe the connector you can use a couple straight pins or hat pins but it's unnecessary for testing as described just unplug rectifier connector and measure the ski side of connector.
 
Testing Results:

Red / Black on ski side of the plug = battery voltage exactly. Battery is a little down at 12.09 volts.

3 yellow wires from Stator:
Pin 1-2=0.6 Ohms
Pin 2-3=0.6 Ohms
Pin 1-3 =0.5 Ohms

All pins to ground are open.

Based on everything I read, this sounds like rectifier. Right?

Given the static test, is there any way the Stator is not producing?
 
Sounds like rectifier to me. At 3,000 rpm you should be at least 13 volts not battery voltage. And they are very common to go bad.
 
Testing Results:

Red / Black on ski side of the plug = battery voltage exactly. Battery is a little down at 12.09 volts.

3 yellow wires from Stator:
Pin 1-2=0.6 Ohms
Pin 2-3=0.6 Ohms
Pin 1-3 =0.5 Ohms

All pins to ground are open.

Based on everything I read, this sounds like rectifier. Right?

Given the static test, is there any way the Stator is not producing?

Stator results are perfect, this indicates the regulator is inoperative.
 
Ok. Thanks. Looks like OSD parts does not have the HD rectifier and doesn't know when they will get more. Gotta find another source.
 
I would buy an OEM one.

I've had 1 OSD last lasted one season and I was fooling to buy another one. I'm going to buy an OEM one for the next time around.
 
Just out of curiosity, has anyone ever dug out the potting compound to get to the electronics in a regulator / rectifier? I understand, from some of my more electronics-skilled buds that there should only be a diode set in there.

Since I am going to get a new one, I may get the old Dremel out and dig out the bad one, just because.
 
I personally believe that the electrical system is not beefed up enough.

Since I put a bigger AGM battery and a disconnect, I haven't had any problems with my rectifier.

I put a 24 size AGM in mine that has about 325 CCA.

I found that if I unplug my battery when I'm done riding for a while, my battery stays charged.

Just my 2 cents.
 
Just out of curiosity, has anyone ever dug out the potting compound to get to the electronics in a regulator / rectifier? I understand, from some of my more electronics-skilled buds that there should only be a diode set in there.

Since I am going to get a new one, I may get the old Dremel out and dig out the bad one, just because.

Short answer to your question is yes, and there are more than just a simple diode bridge in these.

Several years back I looked up and found Tympanium's patent, there are several designs of course for different applications, some single phase and three phase, some shunt and different types of bridges.

The one I suppose is used by Seadoo for the 3-phase system is shown in figure 5 of this 1st drawing poated, and the "control item 26" circuit detail is figure 7, seems like to me. Remember, there are ways to beef up a regulator by using larger diodes and SCR's capable of handling more current thus as time has progressed the higher amp circuits have been beefed up accordingly, of course. This would be your 4-tec regulator. This is a patent thus, exact components selected aren't specified, it's the design that counts.

So I was curious as well and dug the potting out of a Typaniukm regulator for a project. I found the mounting screws for the SCR's were lose, this regulator had stopped working and was defective, occasionally it would work but mostly it didn't.

In the 2nd drawing poseted, I copied Tympanium's regulator circuit and installed it in an old non-regulated Sears battery charger using the original diodes and added a single SCR with the regulator to gate the SCR, you know the type of charger we used to deal with, ones that can boil out a battery in short order if left unattended. Well, it was just sitting in the back of the shop unused so why not?

My modified battery charger is the upper half of drawing.

So this old battery charger works like an automatic charger now, it regulates at 14.2 volts on high xfmr primary setting and 13.7 on low xfmr primary setting. Does a great job of charging batteries and doesn't boil them out, yea! :) Not as sophisticated as a real good float charger but great for leaving a battery for a week at least, no lost sleep wondering if a puddle of acid will be on the bench in the morning.

I also worked out the circuit to eliminate the diodes but it requires two SCR's, more expensive by $1 but one fewer components, LOL Shown in lower half of drawing FWIW.

Cheers!
 

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Sportster:

That is FABULOUS info!

I will share this with my electronic buds (my degree is Mechanical Engineering and Computer Science- that means I can spell diode). I am definitely going to dig that stuff out now!
 
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