Recent content by Tim75

Simplest things first. Check that the rubber cap on your kill switch is properly depressing the center button. Is your primary fuel lift pump operating? (the one that thump-thump-thump when you turn the key to run?

Seadoo did not make "special" hardware for their boats. Everything was purchased and assembled to their boats. If you can find a marine boneyard, that might be your best shot. The cables are generic. But one is throttle, one is shift. The ends are different. The steering cable is just a...

I too, have run into the stupid expensive TPS. My understanding is Cummins made them in England and no longer makes them. They are becoming rare; hence the price. If you come across the older style TPS; looks the same, but round connector. Ten minutes with a soldering iron, and you have a...

I replaced the steering cable on my 20 ' Challenger a couple of years ago. I do not remember either end looking like your cable on the right. It looked like the left pic. The cables are not made by SeaDoo, but by suppliers like Teleflex. Heavy duty control cables; like the throttle cable...

Check your favorite online Mercury dealer for part numbers. Matching numbers for different engines should work for you. You will need your serial number. Check eBay.

Glad it works for you. I could never get that mounting to work for me.

You should also check the aft end of the cable. If you turn the nozzle by hand and hear odd crunching sounds; replace the cable. You are about to lose control when the end of the cable breaks off.

Backfiring on a 2 stroke? Maybe slip a camera through the throttle plates and look for damaged reeds? Or maybe the timing is way off.

Hold onto your wallet when you look up the price of the TPS.

It is set in with a Loctite product. Never heard of one coming out by itself.

How many hours on the rebuild? Do you need more low speed time? What comes to mind is overheating. very bad. Or fuel supply; which can also cause overheating. Do you have full flow out of the pee hole on the stern? Check your kill switch. Check all your fuel filters.

It is part of water block off from the casting process of the wear ring. Same as the "freeze plugs" (properly known as core plugs) in your car engine. Not a service point.

Hmmm. On my 240efi, the wires on the cap are both blue. The engine-side wires are also both blue. Maybe the wire to the water separator filter is swapped with oil cap wires?

If your engine oil reservoir level did not drop, obvious ly it is coming from somewhere else. Duh. Is it blue-green thick gear oil? Or milk shake? Basically 4 points. #1. under engine, front end of pump at the flange cover. Not common. #2. From the pump shaft, front end, in the tunnel...

Be careful installing. The magnets can pull it down and smash your fingers. Be careful of the splines too. No hammer required.