The RFI (Rotax Fuel Injection ) Spot

[dkasht]

im not sure on that part number, the numbers i originally posted in this thread on post number 2 is what is in my ski ..

Yes the part number you posted was changed by Bosch to 69223. That's the one I bought. It looks the same but I noticed the numbers on both pumps are different by the last 3 digits. I am guessing that the 69498 is an exact match but not sure either. I noticed you have a gtx mine is gsx 1999. Hopefully someone will chime in if they used the one you posted. My gut says its fine but I'm hoping someone's been there don't that with the same ski I have. Would hate to take this apart twice since it's a pain lol

 

[griz400]

Yes the part number you posted was changed by Bosch to 69223. That's the one I bought. It looks the same but I noticed the numbers on both pumps are different by the last 3 digits. I am guessing that the 69498 is an exact match but not sure either. I noticed you have a gtx mine is gsx 1999. Hopefully someone will chime in if they used the one you posted. My gut says its fine but I'm hoping someone's been there don't that with the same ski I have. Would hate to take this apart twice since it's a pain lol

i would probably go with it, ive worked for dodge over 30 years, and part numbers always supersede ... mine was over 2 years old now i believe

 

[dkasht]

Yea I probably will. From what I can see the gsx and gtx of this year 1999 are same pump. Hopefully someone can chime in if they used it on a gsx. Makes me wonder if this pump in my ski has been changed over the years and the previous owner put the wrong one? Can't imagine my ski (gsx) and yours (gtx) both rfi's in same year would have different pumps.

 

[jammin777]

i bought a bocsh pump on ebay that has a different part no than the original and works just fine. and if i remember right is different than griz, i own a 99 gsx rfi and the gtx and gsx have the same fuel system. like griz says, part #'s tend to supersede over time or the possibility of making a few part numbers that are very (99.9%) close to same spec that actually work?

 

[DUS]

I'm changing the 2 fuel filters on my GSX RFI and having problems removing the stabilizing plastic & fuel pump to get at the internal filter. How is the pump secured to the bottom of the module?I just don't want to damage anything. Does it twist & turn

Thx

 

[jammin777]

just need to pull hard and should pop out. last time i did mine i installed a fuel hose that fit tight around the output nipple of the pump and by wiggling and pulling on it, came right out.

 

[DUS]

Thanks Jammin777 ...got it out!

 

[griz400]

Yes the part number you posted was changed by Bosch to 69223. That's the one I bought. It looks the same but I noticed the numbers on both pumps are different by the last 3 digits. I am guessing that the 69498 is an exact match but not sure either. I noticed you have a gtx mine is gsx 1999. Hopefully someone will chime in if they used the one you posted. My gut says its fine but I'm hoping someone's been there don't that with the same ski I have. Would hate to take this apart twice since it's a pain lol

if this is the pump kit you got, here it is by part number, it also explains how bosch changed it, http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bosch-electrical-fuel-pump-kit-69223/20770241-P
it says bosch says its oe or greater -- oe is original equipment -- also i seen that you dont believe us here at seadoo forums, i see you questioned us here on another site -- good luck with your ski ...

 

[dkasht]

Hi for the two small oil lines I would like to replace. I do not know what previous owner was running in this 99 GSX RFI I have. You mentioned to change these with tygon lines which I plan to get tomorrow. I drained as much oil as I could from resovoir and lines and new fiter in order. My understanding is to bleed through the screw than start ski and keep at idle than push oil lever to pump through lines? How do I know when to stop bleeding? Is this the correct way? Does the return need bleeding? Last question for the tygon lines from the pump to the rotary how do I remove (just pull off?) and replace. Sorry for all the questions this is a crutial step from what I have been reading and I don't want to do it incorrectly!!!

 

[dkasht]

Thank You. I do believe and am very grateful for the info I have received on this site and others. I don't think I am wrong searching multiple places for the correct answer. Naturally I am a newbie and im being cautious as this is my first ski and don't want to mess it up. Im not a pro and don't claim to be, just trying to do it right the first time

 

[DUS]

Griz

Thanks for your insights , great stuff, changed my fuel filters on my 1999 GTX RFI no problem ! Being a newbie on this site, where do I go to down load a shop manual for this PWC.

Thx

Dus

 

[dkasht]

Thank you again griz. I completed putting in that pump and filters. I pressure tested came out at 56 psi. I also did drip test as per manual seadoo. No drips. I changed out my injector lines to the tygon and bled them (new oil new filter). Ski started up, hopefully no issues going forward. Thank you again.

 

[DUS]

Having problems bleeding my oil injection lines on my 99 GTX RFI. I have opened the bleed screw but get nothing. I've read something about holding the pump arm wide open manually but don't follow. Also do I need to turn the machine over? I just had the motor rebuilt and don't want to blow it up ! Thanks for your help guys

 

[Brianh64]

I just wanted to say thanks for all the very useful information in this thread. The one thread alone has been a lot of help for me with my ski.

 

[jammin777]

Having problems bleeding my oil injection lines on my 99 GTX RFI. I have opened the bleed screw but get nothing. I've read something about holding the pump arm wide open manually but don't follow. Also do I need to turn the machine over? I just had the motor rebuilt and don't want to blow it up ! Thanks for your help guys

open the bleed screw on the pump to bleed all of the air bubbles out of the oil line till that has the oil filter (tank to pump) once that is done it is ok to start the engine and hold the oil pump bell crank wide open at idle till the 2 small lines from pump to rotary cover nipples are fulled. engine should have plenty of assembly lube and doesn't take long to fill.

 

[PGHMAN]

When bleeding my pump I pulled the plugs and added some oil in the cylinders to lubricate the walls and pistons during the process.

 

[Brianh64]

This thread has so much useful information, wish it was a sticky.

 

[griz400]

CLOSED TPS SETTING
closed tps (meaning no throttle)
access the bosch system in the MPEM programmer, then select "adjustment" in the sub menu, choose "close tps" in the adjustment menu ....screen will display
the actual adjustment of the tps and will also offer to adjust it
AT THIS POINT< DO NOT SELECT YES , UNTIL IDLE SCREW IS LOOSENED, AND IDLE SCREW IS LOOSENED UNTIL THROTTLE PLATE IS COMPLETELY CLOSED .....
now, goose the throttle a few times, and make sure it is completely closed ....
now, select yes and it will automatically adjust the closed throttle setting to the new setting ....
NOW,
access the bosch system, in the MPEM programmer, THEN SELECT REAL TIME...(in the sub menu), and turn your idle screw approx 2 turns, and watch the tps setting till it reaches 6 or 7 degrees , this will approximately make your idle speed correct, (it will need to be set in the water at approximately 1500 rpms give or take 50 ....

now, this is the procedure, read it over a few times, before you ever try and do it ...i always read people say its like 4 degrees, mine is like 8 degrees, well, if it is, something is wrong, or you didn't switch programmer to real time,
after the first part is achieved, and you switch screen to real time, ...YOUR CLOSED TPS SETTING IS DONE. ...the 2 turns and 6-7 degrees always confuses people, and it is there to let you put an allen head socket in 1 hand, watch the screen till you get to 6 or 7 degrees, and have a basic preliminary setting .....

now, this being said, i am not ever going to type all this out again, so, you all can copy and paste it and save it your notes ......

 

[dkasht]

i lost 2 motors till i replaced injectors, one was sticking open and would wash cylinder down and man, that cylinder and piston was real ugly ... the choice is yours though ... but, thats what was wrong with mine, but now, i have been trouble free for over 1 1/2 yrs, if yours are factory injectors, they are goin on 14 yrs old, and you said there was premix though em ...

Hi

Can you describe what happened when your injectors were washing down your cylinders. I'm trying to determine if I have this symptoms. Thank you

 

[griz400]

did you read the paragraph that you quoted me on ???

 

[dkasht]

Yes. I was wondering if the machine made any funny noises or acted a certain way before hand.

 

[ranga97]

This is a fantastic thread, I'm about to purchase an 01 GTX RFI and would love to keep this thread going.
One problem I'd like to address is the relatively fast discharge of the battery when it is not used for a few weeks.
Is it bad for the computer to have the battery disconnected often?

 

[kicker]

No issues disconnecting the battery. It will not affect the computer at all. Just be sure not to cross the + and - , more often then not that will fry the computer.
Good luck with your new ski.

 

[RDele]

Thanks to all who contribute to this thread. Lots of helpful information here. I appreciate you all.

 

[ranga97]

Awesome, thanks!
If I was to buy a switchable battery terminal, would it matter if I disconnected just the positive through the switch? (Not the negative)