1997 Seadoo XP 787 Stalling / Dying

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Hey folks.

New to the PWC world, but pretty experienced mechanically, mostly with motorcycles and small engines. In April of 2019 I traded one of my motorcycles for a 1997 Seadoo XP 787. The hull was in great shape, and she ran on a hose in front of me, and the P.O claimed she ran great the few times they took her out. It was a man in his 50s and his son was 16. The son wanted a motorcycle since you can ride on a permit before getting a car license here in MA.

Anyways, I bought her, and the first ride out she ran like a top. 55-58 mph easy, great acceleration. No bogging down through the powerband. She never really did well with 20-40% throttle opening, so maybe some of the low speed jets are a bit dirty. But I'm more of a WOT (wide open throttle), full speed ahead kind of rider so that never bothered me. She ran great for about 6-8 hours of use, over the course of April - yesterday (July 3rd).

I was out on the river and stopped at a beach. After 15-20 minutes or so I turned her back on, and headed back at WOT. After 5 minutes or so she suddenly died, and since I was standing up I almost went over the handlebars. Talk about heavy deceleration! I immediately thought, "that's strange". I tried pressing the starter and nothing happened, or maybe one beep happened. Here's the first clue. She would only crank when I took out the lanyard / key and put it back in. I would then get the two beeps and she would crank over. After priming it again she finally turned back on, I went slow for about 5 seconds and she would die immediately again. Same thing, out with the key, in with the key, two beeps. She would start, but die after 5 seconds of running.

This happened over and over and I was essentially adrift in the middle of the river. Thankfully MA requires you to have a paddle when registering, so I had a cheapo amazon collapsible paddle to help me get to shore and to a nearby boat ramp.


Once off the PWC, I did what I always do, I hit google search and the forums. It brought me here, where there are already some threads of Seadoo XP's stalling just like mine did, some even the same exact year lol. The suggestions varied somewhat. Fuel system pressure leaks, spark plug replacements, carb cleans, ya know the usual. But one tidbit caught my attention. A couple members said that if the PWC won't start unless you take out the key, then it is having an issue with the DESS post. Bingo! So I am in the process of looking up how to replace this, since I am pretty sure this is my issue. However I have not done a thorough tuneup of the vessel since acquiring, so I would like to do that as well. I am not ripping apart the carbs since I had no signs of carb issues before, aside from some low throttle opening choppy behavior. I will be replacing the plugs, and doing a compression test.

If anyone has any other thoughts / suggestions, they are greatly appreciated! I will document my repairs / work here to hopefully help out someone else down the road.

P.S. Love the vessel, I'll upload pics once the forum allows me to (3 posts).

-Alex
 
It's always a journey to figure out the problem. Sounds like you have a plan and it could well be the DESS Post. That isn't too difficult to replace. I'm finishing up on the restoration of a 1996 XP. I was riding today doing final testing. at WOT for ab out 3 minutes it died. I'm thinking.... oh yea... this is gonna be good. :) I hit the start button and it fired right up. Took fuel well and I rode a bit at 1/2 speed and went to Wide Open Throttle again. After a couple of minutes.... DEADER than a dead cat. Two tries and it fired right up again. I rode it a few more times at WOT but not for a long time.... ski did good. The way it is shutting down sure doesn't seem like fuel. I'm gonna change my DESS post just for good measure. Good Luck with yours !!

We had a good time today. I rode that freaking contraption on the end. Kawasaki whatever it was. I'm not ready for that for sure.July 4th Canal (2).JPEGJuly 4th Canal (3).JPEG
 
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Hey folks.

New to the PWC world, but pretty experienced mechanically, mostly with motorcycles and small engines. In April of 2019 I traded one of my motorcycles for a 1997 Seadoo XP 787. The hull was in great shape, and she ran on a hose in front of me, and the P.O claimed she ran great the few times they took her out. It was a man in his 50s and his son was 16. The son wanted a motorcycle since you can ride on a permit before getting a car license here in MA.

Anyways, I bought her, and the first ride out she ran like a top. 55-58 mph easy, great acceleration. No bogging down through the powerband. She never really did well with 20-40% throttle opening, so maybe some of the low speed jets are a bit dirty. But I'm more of a WOT (wide open throttle), full speed ahead kind of rider so that never bothered me. She ran great for about 6-8 hours of use, over the course of April - yesterday (July 3rd).

I was out on the river and stopped at a beach. After 15-20 minutes or so I turned her back on, and headed back at WOT. After 5 minutes or so she suddenly died, and since I was standing up I almost went over the handlebars. Talk about heavy deceleration! I immediately thought, "that's strange". I tried pressing the starter and nothing happened, or maybe one beep happened. Here's the first clue. She would only crank when I took out the lanyard / key and put it back in. I would then get the two beeps and she would crank over. After priming it again she finally turned back on, I went slow for about 5 seconds and she would die immediately again. Same thing, out with the key, in with the key, two beeps. She would start, but die after 5 seconds of running.

This happened over and over and I was essentially adrift in the middle of the river. Thankfully MA requires you to have a paddle when registering, so I had a cheapo amazon collapsible paddle to help me get to shore and to a nearby boat ramp.


Once off the PWC, I did what I always do, I hit google search and the forums. It brought me here, where there are already some threads of Seadoo XP's stalling just like mine did, some even the same exact year lol. The suggestions varied somewhat. Fuel system pressure leaks, spark plug replacements, carb cleans, ya know the usual. But one tidbit caught my attention. A couple members said that if the PWC won't start unless you take out the key, then it is having an issue with the DESS post. Bingo! So I am in the process of looking up how to replace this, since I am pretty sure this is my issue. However I have not done a thorough tuneup of the vessel since acquiring, so I would like to do that as well. I am not ripping apart the carbs since I had no signs of carb issues before, aside from some low throttle opening choppy behavior. I will be replacing the plugs, and doing a compression test.

If anyone has any other thoughts / suggestions, they are greatly appreciated! I will document my repairs / work here to hopefully help out someone else down the road.

P.S. Love the vessel, I'll upload pics once the forum allows me to (3 posts).

-Alex

My thoughts on this, similar issue I was having just last week with the 96' GSX, intermittent shut down electrically like the lanyard was pulled, and at times nothing coming on when the lanyard was put on the DESS post. Using a multi meter my issue was the DESS post male/female connector to the MPEM. After about a dozen shut downs last weekend only on the water for a short time, I decided to mess with the pins on the connectors. Went out today for a couple hours on it, not a single shut down, so I think I'm good.

I'd test the DESS post, refer to the SM, then test from the DESS post to the barrel connectors in the MPEM and wiggle the male/female connector and see if it breaks continuity.

Another issue can be the lanyard cap will lose resistance over time, anything over 10 ohms can be unreliable.
 
What if the post is failing intermittently? What I noticed about mine is that I'm not getting two beeps when I install the key every time like I was. Today I had to replace the key a third time to get the beep. After starting the ski rode fine. But I got those 2 crash and burns at WOT.
 
Thanks for all the replies so far. I will test the post and key / lanyard. I found a good thread here on testing it. I have read most of the factory service manual, focusing on the tuneup / winterizing since this is my first PWC. I don't recall seeing the testing procedure for the DESS post in the FSM but haven't read it completely through.

The key and lanyard is actually in pretty rough shape. The lanyard broke off, so I had to use a hose clamp to secure the lanyard to the key. This kind of deforms it into an oval shape, but I consistently get two beeps when putting it on. I do wonder if the resistance is out of whack due to age, and I could see some continuity issues.
 
You really need to do your carbs also. You are experiencing what sounds like the transition ports being dirty which is pretty common. The low speed circuit also adds to the high speed circuit so you are also running lean on topend.

Buy only OEM Mikuni parts. The easies is the "back to stock" kits from OSD Seadoo.
 
You really need to do your carbs also. You are experiencing what sounds like the transition ports being dirty which is pretty common. The low speed circuit also adds to the high speed circuit so you are also running lean on topend.

Buy only OEM Mikuni parts. The easies is the "back to stock" kits from OSD Seadoo.


I have the carbs on my list, but really wanted to get a season of riding in before doing the carbs over the winter / offseason here in MA / NorthEast.

A Dess post is a testable thing. No need to guess or spend money if you have not used a multi meter according to the service manual instructions.

Touche. I found the section on testing the lanyard / key and the DESS in the FSM. Chapter 8 electrical. For testing the DESS post, there was continuity from the outer ring to the black wire to the large multi pin connector, and continuity from the center to the white / grey. There was an open circuit between the black and black / yellow without the lanyard installed, and continuity once the lanyard was installed. Everything checked out.

I performed the advanced self diagnostic mode. Removed lanyard and pressed starter button 6 times (it would do the short then long beep on 6th press, not 5th for whatever reason). I then reinstalled the lanyard and pressed the starter button. She fired right up both times I did the test. That checks out.

What if the post is failing intermittently? What I noticed about mine is that I'm not getting two beeps when I install the key every time like I was. Today I had to replace the key a third time to get the beep. After starting the ski rode fine. But I got those 2 crash and burns at WOT.

So I am not sure of the post failing intermittently, this is definitely an option. But I am wondering if my lanyard / chip is the one failing intermittently. I always get two beeps when I put it on, and while running on the hose just now I could wiggle it around and it still was fine. So it seems to check out, but the general condition of it makes me wonder.

On the post I referenced for diagnosing the DESS, here it is again:
How to diagnose the dess post

Forum member Waterluvr discussing an additional test for resistance which I am either not following, or my readings are way out of spec. Here is what he says: "You should see continuity between both of the ground contacts in the side body of the key, and using the red test lead on either of the side ground contacts and the black test lead on the top center contact you should see less than 10 ohms of resistance on the IC serial chip."

I definitely have continuity from both of the ground contacts, but my resistance from either ground contact to the center contact of the lanyard is over 2 MegaOhms. Is this really what he is referring to? If my resistance is orders of magnitude higher than why do I still get the two beeps everytime I install the lanyard?

Next up:

I don't believe the DESS post itself is the issue, since it appears in good condition and passed all the tests. I am leaning towards the lanyard being the problem, and I did not ever receive a spare for it. I want to purchase one or two new ones, any suggestions? A couple questions.

1.) I understand these have to be programmed. I'm going to call local dealers and see what their fee is versus buying the software / unit myself.

2.) Here is what I have found for the key on amazon. Is this correct / are there better options?
https://www.amazon.com/Sea-Doo-278002199-Safety-Floating-Lanyard/dp/B001KMHG5O#customerReviews


Here is a link to the ski running this AM. No issues apparent, but there was definitely something going on on my last ride like I mentioned! Seems to be intermittent though since she ran fine this AM on the hose.
20190705_114034.mp4
 
Running with a dirty fuel system and/or carbs you will be rebuilding the engine, not running it all summer.
 
Running with a dirty fuel system and/or carbs you will be rebuilding the engine, not running it all summer.

I appreciate the advice but really do not want to open the carbs right now. The low throttle opening response is only slightly noticable, but enough that an experienced wrencher can tell there is probably something in the low speed circuit that could use a cleaning.

If you're concerned I'm running lean due to this, then will a plug chop suffice to ease concerns? I have 4 plugs on the way. If I can do it on the hose that would be easiest. Provided the technique is the same as motorcycles I would swap in the new plugs, go WOT for 30 seconds or so, kill the engine with the stop switch, and pull the plugs and inspect. I believe little lean condition is ideal for more power / an even cleaner burn in the chamber, but too lean and you'll risk frying the top end and rebuild as you mention.
 
I have a few DESS posts laying around here. I'm gonna swap one and see if it happens again. Also test the key. It wouldn't surprise me if it's fuel. I"m gonna pull the carbs and give em' another what fer.
 
I appreciate the advice but really do not want to open the carbs right now. The low throttle opening response is only slightly noticable, but enough that an experienced wrencher can tell there is probably something in the low speed circuit that could use a cleaning.

To get the most out of it, rejet down 2 sizes on the big jet, open the HS mix screws 2 turns to start then keep going leaner at WOT bit by bit till it roasts a piston then add 1/16 turn to the HS mix screws. You're there.

If it hesitates and falls on it's face while doing this, you went too lean or your low speed circuit is dirty.

Maybe some racing carbs are available without an idle circuit to avoid complications with tuning the top end? This can be approximated by turning in the low speed screws to bottom in their seat.
 
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I did the turning the low speed screws all the way in once. The ski wouldn't hardly accelerate. When I started checking I found I had not adjusted the low speeds. LOL What an amazing difference that made. Ha ha.
 
I appreciate the advice but really do not want to open the carbs right now.

You've been advised....either pull the carbs off now and go through them, or roll the dice you'll survive the season.

If the DESS post cks out, with it connected perform the test tracing back into the MPEM. Like I was indicating, and I'm not the only one to experience it, continuity can break in the male/female connector.

Any of the Atlantis DESS keys or comparable generic works fine, I have both, I programmed them with my Candoo. You can send the MPEM and the DESS key to Westsidepowersports.com to have it programmed, the turn around is quick. You can also send the MPEM and they will sell you a DESS lanyard also.
 
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No, you can't do it on the hose.

Is there a specific reason why a plug chop on a hose wouldn't work? I also found a pretty sweet write up you did for the carb rebuilds. I'll be referencing for sure but again, I'd rather not open up until I have more time in the offseason.

The Seadoo Carb Rebuild Thread

Is it lean hesitating, or does it feel a little on the fat side (slight 4-stroking)? The former begs immediate attention.

Not sure what you mean here. It sort of bogs down a bit with slight throttle, then revs back up for 40-100% throttle opening. She does idle really stable though if that changes anything.

To get the most out of it, rejet down 2 sizes on the big jet, open the HS mix screws 2 turns to start then keep going leaner at WOT bit by bit till it roasts a piston then add 1/16 turn to the HS mix screws. You're there.

If it hesitates and falls on it's face while doing this, you went too lean or your low speed circuit is dirty.

Maybe some racing carbs are available without an idle circuit to avoid complications with tuning the top end? This can be approximated by turning in the low speed screws to bottom in their seat.


The top end acceleration and performance is stable..
You've been advised....either pull the carbs off now and go through them, or roll the dice you'll survive the season.

If the DESS post cks out, with it connected perform the test tracing back into the MPEM. Like I was indicating, and I'm not the only one to experience it, continuity can break in the male/female connector.

Any of the Atlantis DESS keys or comparable generic works fine, I have both, I programmed them with my Candoo. You can send the MPEM and the DESS key to Westsidepowersports.com to have it programmed, the turn around is quick. You can also send the MPEM and they will sell you a DESS lanyard also.

Thanks for the info. So you're saying that the large multi pin connector that I was testing can then lose continuity where it plugs into? Is that the MPEM it plugs into? I haven't taken that off / apart.

I'm leaning towards the lanyard being the issue, but the fact that I always get two beeps when plugging in and it doesn't seem "loose" makes me wonder. Yeah I have a hose clamp around it and it appears to be in rough shape but I just don't know. Having something else as the issue would make sense. I'll replace the lanyard anyways, and maybe take her back out and report back if the issue arises again.

Why would he want to do this? This advice isn't helpful at all...

Yeah I'm not planning on rejetting any leaner. But the carb rebuild is a good offseason project for the ski since idk when it was done last.

I assumed the focus was on WOT, as the OP stated.

WOT behaves great. It was a 10-30% throttle opening that I noticed hesitation and slight bogging down. But since I ride WOT mainly (so far), I didn't see it as an issue needing immediate attention. Maybe I'll regret that later but for now imma roll without doing the carb rebuild.

Thanks for the continued advise. So from here on I have.

1.) New lanyard / key
2.) Test continuity into MPEM, not just to the connector. Possible replace crimp / bullet connectors here per suggestions.

-Alex
 
You have to have the engine under a full load to do a plug chop. Running on the trailer tells you absolutely nothing other than it runs.
 
Okay another update. Plugs came in the mail today, and I took off the old ones. They had seen better days. I am not a pro at reading plugs, but from the dark appearance at the tip I would say maybe running a little rich, or possibly even oil fouled?

20190709_171135.jpg
20190709_171121.jpg

While I had the plugs out, I did a compression test. I couldn't find the grounding plate to put the plug leads on, so I left the old plugs in the leads and layed them on the top of the head, something I saw written as an alternative to the grounding plate.

On the cylinder closest to the bow of the vessel the compression was right around 130 psi. On the one towards the stern the compression was higher, 140 psi. I'd like both to be 140 but 130 should be fine for now.

20190709_170156.jpg
20190709_165904.jpg

Extrapolating on the oil fouling.. I have a confession to make. I have been running the cheapo wally-world TC-W3 outboard 2 stroke oil. While at first it was an honest mistake from a first time boat / PWC owner, I had eventually read on the forums about this oil and possible clogging and sort of brushed it aside. My PWC has had the oil injectors blocked off, so I felt the whole "clogging" thing was more for the oil injectors. Since I manually mix at the pump, I figured I'd be good.

However, I have done some more digging and found that the RAVE valves apparently don't like TC-W3. One member said he ran TC-W3 for all his PWC's for years with no ill affects, except on RAVE valve engines. Touche...

So at this point I am planning on taking off the RAVE valves and doing an inspection / cleaning. I don't really know what to look for, but I am sure some time on the forum and research will cure that lack of knowledge.

Further extrapolation on the oil clogging. My last fill up at the pump I thought I had 7 gallons worth to go, and put in the equivalent ounces of oil for running 40:1 (22 ounces). However I ended up only filling in 5.9 gallons, which turns out to be 34:1. The ski ran great for the first half a tank, then started acting up on my way back, right when I reached the new fuel on top of the existing 5 or so gallons. I have an 11 gallon tank I believe.

Some mixing must occur while filling / riding, but I could see the mixture at the top of the tank being a lower ratio than the bottom due to my guessing mistake and filling up 34:1. I don't know if this, combined with TC-W3 oil clogged up the RAVEs or something else.

The fact that she runs fine now makes me skeptical this had anything to do with oil or oil fouling, but wanted to get all y'alls advice.

One more thing. One member wanted me to check the continuity past the male / female connector. Is this where the MPEM is? Here is a picture. So I unbolt this from the vessel and then I can open it and see the connections he was talking about?

20190709_172043.jpg

-Alex
 
Well, we don't need to telly you to stop using that oil and use the correct one.

Are you still supplying oil to the rotary gear sump?

Dumping oil into the gas tank is not the way you do pre-mix, you could end up sucking up oil off the bottom of the tank.

I can't see your pictures but you could be fouling plugs.

I would be a little concerned with the 10 psi difference in compression between the cylinders.
 
Didn't read the whole thread (I scanned it) but here are my observations.

First, your spark plugs look like hell. Get some new ones ASAP. On these old skis, you should replace them every year and even twice if you use your ski a lot. With rust like that around the base of the plug, I wonder how old they are.

Second, as for compression, I would try another tester just to make sure but 10 PSI diff as @mikidymac said is definitely a bit of concern (I've been through that and it cost me an engine). I bought a cheap tester a couple years ago that was not accurate and I thought my engine was toast. I retested it with an expensive one and everything was OK A1. Don't know about your tester since I am not a mechanics (but I am learning).

Third, as for the DESS post, yes, the issue could be intermittent at first but usually it gets worse within a matter of days (after a week, mine became completely unusable). Also, check the inside of your key for the presence metal flakes (clinker?). Last fall, I had an incident of my ski failing again a couple times just before winterizing and while it was winterized in the garage, I noticed metal flakes inside my older key. When spring came, I was a bit worried and I had cleaned the flakes. Issue never came back so far this summer.

Fourth, drop this cheap oil, there is no savings in trying to save a few bucks for oil. Some people will also tell you to empty the oil tank before putting the good one and not mix them.

Good luck
 
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