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The RFI (Rotax Fuel Injection ) Spot Might find some info in here

So, take your original crank, put the original flywheel and stator cup on it. Look in the manual so you get the stator cup on correctly. Then do the same with RFI crank. put the MAG piston at TDC. Mock up the crank that's not in the engine at TDC. Check the stator, the little "nubs" on the side...

NOS Vintage Sea Doo OEM Steering Control Cable 271000200 | eBay 2 available. Just googled the part# you supplied but took the spaces out.

To anyone looking, to yes I still sell these. Also make the ones for the 951DI that rodrijudy posted.

Yes I have them on hand ready to ship on Monday

Unlocked by popular demand

Unlocked by popular demand

The WCV has just one disk inside. Buy a complete new valve. Don't bother with just parts. You can replace what you want, if the body is worn it will leak. You can't really tell if the body is worn until you get it in the water and drive it. It's a wear item, it's 24 years old out with the old...

You jet boat does not have siphon drains. You have a rule bilge pump. So, they're not missing.

Those were frozen at one point the water expanded and cracked them

Unless the wire is cut thru, just leave the wire alone. These are not like a cars with spiral wound wires. These are actually multiple stands of wire. They don't break down like a cars wires. Been messing with seadoos since the 90's and have never once replaced a wire.

Why not buy the OEM ones. They're available again and I think cheaper or the same price.

Lol, that's bad. And to add insult to injury, that's an sbt engine. The silver for on the head cover is the overheat sticker. So, someone paint for that engine and still didn't learn from the first engine. Geez

The speedster manual will suffice. I'll try and take a look a little later tonight to see if I can find it.

Or use a screwdriver to get the old seal out, again from the other side

Save your money on the seal puller. Just use a deep well socket that fits in the from other side. Then cut a little 2x4 nugget and tap the new seal in. Put a paper towel over it so nothing gets in the seal. Then smear the lip is the seal that rides on the crank so when you start it up it's not dry.

Probably, but you'd have to swap all the electronics.

Not taking a stab at you AK. I just see lots of guys here doing it. The procedure in the manual doesn't have you do it for the antifreeze. I just keep the mess to a minimum if you know what I mean. It really is simple to winterize these skis though and everyone complicates it with pumps and...

I made i thread years ago with pics. I still shake my head when guys say to start the engine when putting antifreeze in. All you need is gravity. Starting it does nothing. Using a submersible pump messy and a waste of time. You can literally winterize a ski in 15 minutes start to finish or less...