XPL - Couple of Issues from Riding

[Marky_Marc]

Hey guys,

After riding last weekend I have a couple of issues I wanted some guidance with.

1) I seem to be have a lot of cavitation between idle and 3500 rpm. On inspection it appears the clamp on the driveshaft boot came loose and sprayed water and carbon around the back of the boat. See picture. Could the cavitation be from a worn carbon seal or simply because the boot clamp came loose (See attached photo)?
This is the second time this clamp has come loose. The back was tight. Is there anyway to test the carbon ring? Propeller, Driveshaft and Wear ring were replaced about 10 hours ago by Seadoo.

2) PTO Grease - I noticed a large amount of marine grease (the same stuff i use on the zerk fitting) on the driveshaft just under the zerk fitting. It appears to be leaking out the bottom. Not sure what this means or if something has failed?

3) I tried to test the Auto Bilge pump by filling the gully it sits in with water. The bilge pump was half submerged when i hit the start button (no key). The pump cycled and started to remove water for around 3-5 seconds then stopped. Tried 2-3 times more and the same thing. There was still a decent amount of water in the gully. Not sure if it will only stay on for 3/5 secs without the key or there is an issue with the pump?

 

[mikidymac]

The grease coming out is normal especially if you added too much.

I have never seen that clamp come loose but if the carbon seal is vibrating I guess it could. Have you checked your engine alignment? This can cause vibrations and the carbon seal to wear out. A leaking carbon seal can cause cavitation.

The bilge pump will cycle when the key is attached but I don't think it will stay on unless the ski is running.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

The pump is auto sensing, when powered (on when gauges are on) it runs for 5 seconds every 30 (maybe 60) seconds. If it senses a load (water) it continues to run until the load is removed. If the key was not on, the circuit only stays hot for approx 30 seconds. they are a standard RULE on you can get on ebay, just won't have the OEM connector. Splice AFTER the connector to retain the OEM connector using waterproof heatshrink connectors.

 

[Marky_Marc]

Thanks @mikidymac @SabrToothSqrl

I will check the Carbon Seal again and engine alignment. If the carbon ring is needing replaced, is there anyway i can get through the last month of summer with a temporary fix? I heard adding zip ties to the creases in the boot can stop it compressing?

Bilge Pump - There was definitely lots of water left when it stopped. I think i will try the bilge pump with the engine on for 10/15 seconds and see if continues, if not it's time to take it out and have a look inside.

 

[mikidymac]

The bailers should remove the majority of the water. The pump is just insurance.

I can’t say if you can limp the carbon seal along or not.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

DO NOT RISK that carbon seal. if it fails, your ski will sink in under 5 min. I'm dead serious. That's the only thing stopping a 2" wide hole dead bottom of your ski from filling with water.

OSD should have a nice kit that gets you a new carbon seal and stainless ring in one shot.

You push back the stainless ring, to remove the C-clip, BEFORE you remove the jet pump.

then you remove the jet pump, so you can remove the driveshaft. IIRC, it just then slides out the back, but putting it back in, lining it up w/the coupler under the shock can be fun I've done carbon rings, driveshafts, etc. etc. I'm on my 3rd XP.