WONT START ,GOOD SPARK
- Thread starter Lukes4tow
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The boat was parked for 4 months but i start it once a month for 5 mins. with the water hose. I started it a Saturday with the hose 5 mins. and it was fine the i put in the water on Sunday morninig and it didnt want to start. I took it back to my shop and drained the fuel tank ,the pumps,flush the fuel lines and changed the filters.I put new spark plugs, new gas.I did try to start it and nothing.The throttle body was getting flooded and the fuel was leaking out of the throttle body gaskets.I removed the throttle body assy. and cleaned it and installed new gaskets. I also removed the vapor separator to clean it and checked the float. I try starting it again and it did start and ran for around 3 mins. and it shut off by itself. I notice that wasnt enough smoke from exhaust. I try starting it again and it wont start.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Since you are having fuel issues... I would put some oil in the fuel tank. If the raw fuel is pumping into the engine, and leaking into the throttle plenum... then there won't be any oil from the oil system. (it has to be running to pump oil into the vapor tank)
I would start with check the fuel pressure at the regulator.
When you had the throttle body unit off... did you also replace the gaskets/seals in the injector rack? That's the only place that raw fuel could be coming from.
I would start with check the fuel pressure at the regulator.
When you had the throttle body unit off... did you also replace the gaskets/seals in the injector rack? That's the only place that raw fuel could be coming from.
I just went thru almost the same problem. Injectors went out to shop, came back with soft green o-rings. On installation into fuel rail, I managed to cut an o-ring. Ended up using one of the old but still pliable o-rings. The green ones seem a tiny bit oversize.
Now for the big BUT--- with that amount of fuel flowing into at least one cylinder, be careful continually trying to crank. Called HYDROLOCK- think burnt starter or bent connecting rod.
I was cranking the engine and no oil cumming out of the oil pump to the vapor tank (the little hose to the bottom of tank). I did turn the little screw on the oil pump to bleed the air out but nothing cumming out of the hose .When i turn the ignition key to on i get close to 40 psi at the vapor pump but when i try to start the engine i loose that pressure, drops to 0 psi. I just replaced the Throttle body gaskets not the injector seals. I am going to have to order the injectors o-ring set. WHat you think about the fuel psi. ?
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
you should have 36 psi as soon as the key is turned on. If it's dropping... then you don't have any fuel to start the engine with. Put a meter on the terminals of the pump and make sure you are getting voltage while cranking.
As far as the oil... you probably won't see anything coming out of the pump at cranking speed. It doses a very small amount, and unless it's up at running speed... it will be hard to see.
On the point of bleeding the oil.... you generally have to remove the screw to get the oil to flow. But be carful. That screw is easy to drop, and loose... and, it's very small, and it's easy to break off. SO... when it goes back in... make sure the little fiber washer is on it (Does the actual sealing) and do not over tighten it.
As far as the oil... you probably won't see anything coming out of the pump at cranking speed. It doses a very small amount, and unless it's up at running speed... it will be hard to see.
On the point of bleeding the oil.... you generally have to remove the screw to get the oil to flow. But be carful. That screw is easy to drop, and loose... and, it's very small, and it's easy to break off. SO... when it goes back in... make sure the little fiber washer is on it (Does the actual sealing) and do not over tighten it.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Raw fuel from the exhaust?? That's not good.
OK.... at this point... we need to go all the way back to the start.
1) We need to dry that engine out. So, take out the pugs, and lift the power wire from the high pressure fuel pump. (just remove the ground wire) Then crank it. Make sure nothing is coming out the spark plug holes.
2) Once we know it's dry... spray in a good heavy shot of storage oil in the sparkplug holes and the intake. We need to make sure there is some oil in there. (Crank lightly to distribute)
3) Lets verify spark on all 6 plugs. Because of the way the system is built... you can loose a single, or multiples as the coils ballast each other.
4) Check the compression. We need a minimum of 120 to start. +135 psi is ideal.
Get that, and report back. Oh... make sure to charge the new battery. Sometimes they sit on the shelf, and are weak. (But I'm not thinking that's an issue at the moment)
OK.... at this point... we need to go all the way back to the start.
1) We need to dry that engine out. So, take out the pugs, and lift the power wire from the high pressure fuel pump. (just remove the ground wire) Then crank it. Make sure nothing is coming out the spark plug holes.
2) Once we know it's dry... spray in a good heavy shot of storage oil in the sparkplug holes and the intake. We need to make sure there is some oil in there. (Crank lightly to distribute)
3) Lets verify spark on all 6 plugs. Because of the way the system is built... you can loose a single, or multiples as the coils ballast each other.
4) Check the compression. We need a minimum of 120 to start. +135 psi is ideal.
Get that, and report back. Oh... make sure to charge the new battery. Sometimes they sit on the shelf, and are weak. (But I'm not thinking that's an issue at the moment)
We did dry out the engine like you said and sprayed the oil in the cylinders .Battery fully charged. We checked the spark and we do have very good spark. We did the compression test and we got 131 psi on each left side cylinders and 142 psi on each cylinder on the right side .After that we put everything back together and tried to start it and it started up quick. We left it running for around 10 to 15 mins. with the water hose and it had a raw fuel smell out of the exhaust. We shut it off and tried to start it again after one hour and it did not want to start. I dont know what else to do. Need help. Thank you.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
just as a warning... a lot of garden hoses don't have the volume and pressure needed to keep a merc engine cool. The reason is... most of that water goes out the holes in the pump. SO... make sure you don't over heat it.
The start up is a good sign. At least we know the engine is mechanically ok.
SO... the "Raw fuel smell" and the "Fuel from the exhaust" from before is our clues. To me... it sounds like you have a leak of some kind in the EFI system. It could be the seals in the rail... the seals between the injectors, to the rail... or even the injectors themselves.
At this point... I would remove the entire EFI plenum... replace all the seals... and even send the injectors out for service.
The start up is a good sign. At least we know the engine is mechanically ok.
SO... the "Raw fuel smell" and the "Fuel from the exhaust" from before is our clues. To me... it sounds like you have a leak of some kind in the EFI system. It could be the seals in the rail... the seals between the injectors, to the rail... or even the injectors themselves.
At this point... I would remove the entire EFI plenum... replace all the seals... and even send the injectors out for service.
I just went thru injectors and o-rings on my 2000 240 EFI. 2 inj. dirty and sticking open. 2 more bad spray pattern. I sent them all to Havoc Speed in Palm Beach- sent UPS on a Weds. aft., got them back Fri. aft. Report said they disassembled them, cleaned and tested. They came back with new o-rings and filters. $20 each plus shipping.
You could have a fuel leak at any o-ring. Check for a crack in the fuel rail. They are plastic. There are about 12 (I think). REPLACE THEM ALL!
My local Merc shop did not have any o-rings. bammarine.com (Pompano) lists the inj. seal kit $300.
You could have a fuel leak at any o-ring. Check for a crack in the fuel rail. They are plastic. There are about 12 (I think). REPLACE THEM ALL!
My local Merc shop did not have any o-rings. bammarine.com (Pompano) lists the inj. seal kit $300.
Thanks
I bought a Complete Used Throttle body unit with all sensors and injectors in it and replaced it and now its running fine. Starts up very fast and runs very good. And also the rev limiting problem at 2500 rpm is gone. I don't know what was the problem. Thank you for all the help.
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