where to find cheap parts? Wiring, fuel valve, bumper trim 94 SPX

[danheit]

Hey guys, working on my new to me SD and am having a little difficulty. First off, I know NOTHING about Seadoo's, but am no stranger to a wrench. I build competition rock crawlers, and am building a 55 Chevy pickup. I don't mind any kind of fab work, but this doo won't be getting much in that way. My plans are to get it to float, and run well. Right now, I need a new drain plug to make it float, and the PO evidently ran the nose into something b/c the glass is cracked top and bottom (not too bad, really just into the lip) and spiderwebbed into the top portion of the hull. No biggie. Once I am sure it won't sink, then I want to get it running. I played around the other day and got it to fire off, but I need new wiring for the two switches right off the bat. Both the lanyard safety switch and the start switch are pushed through the hull, and the threaded portion the nut would screw onto to hold them to the hull is broken completely off - I need new switches. I can get by with just a lanyard safety switch, and let the other one dangle for now, but none the less, it needs fixed. It appears the ski was taken decent care of in the past before the PO got it, as all the fuel lines were replaced by the dealer (my guess just by the style of crimped hose clamps used), carbs look to be recently rebuilt with a new looking carb to intake gasket.I do have the old style shaft bearings with the zerk fittings, but they look to be well taken care of. I do need a new fuel selector valve, as my current one has the knob missing and the top part the knob attaches to is broken off. Knob is still functional with a pair of vicegrips though, but I don't want to work that way. I also need several of the carb and air intake screws, as they are just flat out gone. I found a couple in the bottom of the ski today, but still probably need about 8-10.

ALSO: in the bottom of the ski is a good bit of milky slimy water (water mixed with oil that has sat for some time) Any idea where the oil could have come from?

Another issue is I have a few small rubber hoses that aren't connected to anything and I need to figure out where they go. Any help with that would be great. I just downloaded the 94 shop manual, so it may be somewhere in those 350 pages.....

Last but not least, I need to file for a title. Not that big of a deal in SC, so I am putting that as the least of my worries. The ski was last registered in 2009 though.

Gonna check cylinder pressure before dropping any $$ into the ski and make sure it will be worth fixing. I am hearing 135 and up but 140-145 is normal. Is that correct?

Big thing I am trying to come away with here is, where can I find those switches cheap? Went to the dealer today and a new one is 125. That's not happening. I'm looking for all the switches and a fuel valve/knob assembly for a lot less than that.

 

[LouDoo]

Wow, I'm not sure that I will be able to answer all of your questions, as there are many. A good source for used parts is minnetonka4me or 99spxxx, PM them on this forum. However I would suggest that you buy a new fuel selector valve, about $20.00.

Ideal engine compression is 150psi, 140-150 is O.K.

A common area for an oil leak is the grommet where the main oil line attaches at the bottom of the tank.

I've got a question for you, Is SC a no-title state? I am considering buying a 95 SeaDoo speedster that currently doesn't have a title and my son lives in Columbia, I was thinking about registering the boat in his name.

Lou

 

[Dr Honda]

The dealer is smok'in crack if he thinks 125 is OK on an early SeaDoo. 150 psi is spec on the 800 or smaller engines. They generally will run OK down to 135, but they are getting tired. The 951 engine should be about 135 psi.


As far as parts... check eBay. I get used parts there all the time, and if you keep an eye out... you can get them cheap.

I know you said the title is low on your list... but it should almost be first. In PA... it's dam near impossible to re-title a ski, unless you have the signature of the last titled owner. I'm not saying to pay for a new title and registration... but dig into it, and make sure you have everything needed to put it in your name before putting $$$ into the ski.

 

[danheit]

Guys, thanks for the great info so far. I will make sure my compression is upwards of 150psi. I was looking through ebay, and haven't really found much of what I am looking for in the way of the safety switch. Are there other models/years that will be compatible with my ski for the lanyard/safety switch?

Title: No, SC is not a no title state, however, they make it fairly easy to get an abandoned watercraft title. I ran the hull ID yesterday through NCIC, and it didn't come back stolen, so I am good to go there. I can't promise, but I seriously doubt that it has a lein on it. When I get back to work tomorrow, I will run the hull ID for the previously registered owner (I'm a police officer so it makes it a little easier) and see if I can contact them for a title. If not, I will just apply for an abandoned watercraft, or put a mechanic's lien on it. Either way, the title shouldn't be too tough to get. Worse comes to worst, I will just fix it and sell it to someone that will use it on a small personal property pond. There are plenty around here, and it doesn't have to be titled if it's on your own property.

Went to the stealership yesterday and ran prices on a few parts. For a drain plug, fuel selector switch and knob, and the safety switch was over $200, which is crazy to me. The fuel selector alone is 35, not much different from what I have found online..... That's why I was hoping to find a good discount parts house that has decent quality parts that I'm just not thinking of.

 

[Spimothy Leary]

Guys, thanks for the great info so far. I will make sure my compression is upwards of 150psi. I was looking through ebay, and haven't really found much of what I am looking for in the way of the safety switch. Are there other models/years that will be compatible with my ski for the lanyard/safety switch?

Title: No, SC is not a no title state, however, they make it fairly easy to get an abandoned watercraft title. I ran the hull ID yesterday through NCIC, and it didn't come back stolen, so I am good to go there. I can't promise, but I seriously doubt that it has a lein on it. When I get back to work tomorrow, I will run the hull ID for the previously registered owner (I'm a police officer so it makes it a little easier) and see if I can contact them for a title. If not, I will just apply for an abandoned watercraft, or put a mechanic's lien on it. Either way, the title shouldn't be too tough to get. Worse comes to worst, I will just fix it and sell it to someone that will use it on a small personal property pond. There are plenty around here, and it doesn't have to be titled if it's on your own property.

Went to the stealership yesterday and ran prices on a few parts. For a drain plug, fuel selector switch and knob, and the safety switch was over $200, which is crazy to me. The fuel selector alone is 35, not much different from what I have found online..... That's why I was hoping to find a good discount parts house that has decent quality parts that I'm just not thinking of.

the stealership is nuts, you can do better elsewhere...
dig up minnitonka here, he'll have the parts you need, if you can't find him, pm me and i'll pass along the #... I bought and sold probably 10 skis in the past 12 months, and he provided parts for half of them, with NO problems ! all those parts can be replaced for half or less...

the only thing I buy from the dealer is primer kits and oil filters, its the only thing they are priced fair on... I did buy a steering cable from them awhile back but only after I haggled with the guy....

 

[bruce081]

For minnetonka go into classified section here under used parts. All his contact info is there. Hes great to deal with.

 

[danheit]

Ran a compression test, front carb was 145, rear was 139 first time, 140 2nd time, so I am ok with those numbers. ANOTHER problem that I am running into is that I think I might have 2 of the same carb, instead of one mag and one prop carb. They both look the exact same, both have a 'R' stamped in the rear side cover, and there is a hose coming off the block that looks like it goes directly to the carb, but has nowhere to hook up. I'm gonna add pics in a minute.

 

[danheit]

Front:

Back carb side plate:

Don't know if you can see it on this one, but the same 'R' is stamped in the cover:

The hose that goes to nowhere. Any idea where this should go? From what I can see on other carbs, this hooks directly to the side of the carb where that blue cover is, and should have a totally different side cover on it.

Also, safe to say that this is the battery vent? It has a long hose that goes to nowhere, but is long enough to make it to the battery tray.